Upper Register Performance Soprano Sax - A Question

A question was posed to me last week and as there are many elements of my reply that might be of interest to others I offer the following on this topic.

Question:

I struggle with getting high notes on my soprano sax. Should I change my reed (strength) ?

Reply:

Changing your reed strength may be helpful but just playing a harder reed (I have to assume this is what you mean) will not necessarily be the answer. The soprano sax should not be more ‘difficult’ than other saxophones but its small size means that it may be more critical. Little things will make big differences. Every aspect of your playing technique is ‘under the microscope’ in ways larger saxes do not require to the same degree. This is why prior experience in alto or tenor sax is usually recommended before adding the soprano to your saxophone armoury.

There are many factors that will affect the response and stability of the saxophone upper register, especially on soprano, so a review of them may be useful:

• The embouchure must still be ‘round and supportive’ but not too tight. Playing a stable concert C on the soprano mouthpiece setup alone is a good target (concert Ab for alto, concert Gb for tenor).
• The correct amount of mouthpiece in the mouth is very important – too much in the mouth and the sound and upper register response will suffer, too little and the tone will be dead and both high and low registers will be compromised.
• The airstream used should feel significantly faster for the soprano and if the high notes are unstable you may need to ‘focus’ the air into a smaller yet still energetic stream in order to provide what the upper range notes require.
• The quantity of air used for different registers will need to be varied – higher, shorter tube notes require less (they are easy to overpower) whereas lower, longer tube notes will require a proportionally greater volume of air to fill the tube and stabilise their response.
• Inside your oral cavity the tongue must have a more exaggerated ‘arch’ position than what you use on the alto, tenor or baritone and this arch is closer to the rear of the mouth. This is a bit like saying the vowel sound ‘Eeeeee’
• Your mouthpiece must be in a good tuning position on the cork. If pulled off too far the low notes will not speak properly and high notes will be very flat in pitch and unresponsive. If the mouthpiece is pushed on too far on you might think all is okay - until you check your tuning – when you are likely to find the high register to be extremely sharp and the instrument very out of tune with itself.
• If your mouthpiece tip opening is moderate or narrow then a medium to medium strong reed (strength 2.5 to 3.5 in most brands) is likely to be required in order to provide stability throughout the instrumental range, right up to high F# or G.
• If your mouthpiece tip opening is on the larger side a somewhat softer reed may provide a better match. Too strong and you will find yourself fighting the low register and having to ‘bite’ too hard to make your basic sound.
• Higher baffle mouthpieces (including many jazz style mouthpieces) will be generally brighter and in fact may facilitate upper register playing but may also demand more relaxation in the embouchure and ‘favouring’ downward for pitch. Moderate or lower baffle mouthpieces are generally more stable for intonation and are likely be more manageable throughout the entire range.

As a guide I would suggest that you are in search of a reed strength that provides enough resistance to meet the demands of your properly focused and well-regulated airstream without excess embouchure pressure required.

Success with higher register notes should follow.

The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful. 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Brass Instrument Oiling, Cleaning & Greasing

Brass Instrument Oiling, Cleaning & Greasing

Regular lubrication of slides, tuning slides and valves is an absolute requirement for brass players who desire the proper functioning of their instruments. Without such regular care the likelihood of problems both in both the short and long term are dramatically increased. However, because it takes a bit of time to do and the consequences of not caring for the instrument are not fully appreciated, it is constantly overlooked.

Tuning slides should be regularly moved and never allowed to set in one position for too long as this will lead to them ‘sticking’. What happens is that the tubing exposed to air begins to degrade / oxidise and the inner stocking of tubing which is exposed to moisture is continually collecting food particles, saliva and a coating from condensation on the tubing as well which degrades the exposed brass. By lubricating all contact surfaces with slide grease and frequently resetting the tuning/slide positions both problems are reduced. If the slides becomes difficult to move then the accumulated residue can be removed by coating the tubing with valve oil or a degreasing agent, the tuning slide given a thorough rubbing to remove the build up, followed by a rinse with water, a wiping over and re-lubrication. 

The rubbing can be done with a textured scrubbing sponge such as might be used for cleaning of dishes or a fabric cloth of an open weave. Be careful to not leave scouring marks on the tubing as this contributes to an increase of problems in the future. The inside of the tuning slides can be cleaned using a lighter or thinner cloth threaded through a cleaning rod - a flute rod can be very useful for this. Coat the cloth with valve oil or a degreasing agent and insert and remove repeatedly followed by re-lubricating as necessary. Every now and then (some players choose to do this every 6 months or so) the valves may be removed and the entire inside of the instrument washed out - i.e. 'given a bath' - in warm, NEVER HOT, water and then the above cleaning process undertaken, followed by lubrication and reassembly.

Trombone slides are best lubricated with a proprietary slide cream and then sprayed with water afterwards. Remember to lubricate the ‘stockings’ as well – they are located at the very bottom of the inner slide and they receive the greatest friction contact with the outer slide. A properly lubricated trombone slide should feel practically weightless in use. Any grinding or hesitation in movement at all is undesirable. It is considered good practice to wipe off the cream occasionally and reapply so that an excess does not build up.

Trumpets / Cornets and all standard valved instruments require oiling to their valves almost every time they are played. Waiting until a valve begins to stick is asking for trouble. It is usually not necessary to fully remove the valve entirely from the casing - simply unscrew the top cap and lift the valve assembly up about half way out of the casing then squirt a few drops of valve oil on the valve surface and spin the valve around inside the casing while lifting up and down to distribute the oil on all surfaces. Locate the ‘click’ position of the valve guide and gently spin into place. Before the reassembly of the valve top cap put a drop of oil on the screw threads as well (good to do the same to the bottom caps at the same time) and they will function better. This is because valve oil, a petroleum based product, helps to stop the ingress of moisture and acts as a cleaning agent as well as a lubricant. In other words it functions both as a preventative and restorative treatment. Every now and then the inside of the casings will benefit from a thorough cleaning. Use a soft, lint free cloth over a dowel rod to run through the valve casing to remove any build up within. Wipe over the surface of the valve itself and re-lubricate.

Once all three valves are returned to their positions a test to see that they are in the correct place is to blow through the leadpipe while ‘twiddling’ all the valves rapidly up and down. At all times it should feel that air is flowing freely through the instrument. If you sense resistance at any point then one or more of the valves is probably out of ‘click’ position, possibly reversed, and you will need to check them all carefully and replace as necessary in the correct position.

French horn valves are a little different as they are ‘rotary’ valves and revolve on a bearing. It is best to use proprietary French horn valve, bearing and rotor oil when lubricating the valves and valve mechanisms. Valve oil is usually applied without disturbing the valve in the casing by adding a few drops through the port of a removed tuning slide. Do not over oil or you are sure to hear the ‘gurgling’ of trapped oil in the tubing when blowing. As horn players very frequently remove their tubing for the clearance of built up saliva / water they often have the cleanest and smoothest functioning valves and slides of any of the brass family. Their valves need to move especially easily as they are operated via a string or connection arm and not receive direct pressure from fingers.

 If through neglect or abuse valves or slides become very stuck it is best they be seen to by an experienced repairer who may have to soak the instrument in a cleaning agent or use force and or heat to get the troublesome slide or valve to release and then have to spend costly time cleaning and returning the instrument to good condition. Obviously this is best avoided.

It is worth keeping an eye on the condition of any 'spit valve' corks or synthetic pads as over time these can degrade and begin to leak. I recommend replacing these as soon as any sign of a problem is evident. This is far better than being let down during a performance!

Keep the outside of a lacquer finish instrument looking good by regularly wiping off fingerprints, grease and dust with a lacquer polish cloth. Keep silverplated instruments looking good by regularly using a silver polish cloth to remove tarnish and restore the finish to good appearance. I do not recommend using liquid polishes as they can leach into the slides and valves and could cause problems.

A final comment – When assembling the mouthpiece simply place gently in the receiver of the leadpipe and give a gentle twist to secure it. NEVER TAP ON THE MOUTHPIECE. There is no need for this and it will likely result in the mouthpiece becoming stuck requiring removal with a special mouthpiece removal tool.

------------------

The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful. 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Instrumental Tuning and Design - Proper Tuning Approaches

Instrumental Tuning and Design - Proper Tuning Approaches

Modern musical instruments, manufactured by responsible firms, have benefited enormously from investments in acoustical research and design consultation with artists. The overall standard of wind instrument manufacture has never been higher and the area of greatest improvement is to be found at the student level. While superior materials and expert craftsmanship contribute to making some older models highly desirable in the eyes of knowledgeable players the advent of computer aided design and assembly has brought about vast improvements in performance and pitch consistency for quality modern instruments across the board.

Tuning

Most markets around the world aim for A = 440 (UK, USA, Australia) or at most A = 442 (Europe). Austria is an exception where A = 444 or 445 is still a preference. Instrument manufacturers design their products to perform at these pitches under ideal conditions of approximately 72 degree Fahrenheit / 22 degrees Celsius, (i.e. room temperature). In practice there remains quite a lot for the player to understand and to learn to utilise to help her or himself to accomplish truly playing in tune.

Comfortable, room temperature conditions are rarely found in performance situations but since these are what are utilised at the design stage an instrument must be able to be played both above and below the intended ‘ideal’ pitch in order to accommodate adverse conditions.

Flute – the head cork must be in the correct position – check this with cleaning rod line - it must show up in the middle of the embouchure hole. The headjoint itself is usually pulled out from the fully ‘pushed-in’ position approximately 3-5mm (sometimes more) depending upon blowing style, angle of air stream and embouchure. Too far out and the player is must compensate for flat low notes, splitting tones and a dull high register – too far in and the compensation is all downwards with the lip and blowing angle. Overblown octaves, harmonics of 12ths and double octaves should all nominally ‘line-up’ when tested. The player must then handle smaller adjustments for pitch accuracy and tonal colour. The general tendency of the flute is towards sharpness especially in the upper register and when playing loudly. Pitch will sag when playing soft without great care and good air support from the player.

NB – on all other instruments the tendency is for pitch to sharpen when playing more softly.

Clarinet – Instrument manufacturers intend that a clarinet, when pushed all the way in, should play sharp. Student instruments are frequently supplied with shorter barrels to allow for tuning to fixed pitch instruments (i.e. a piano or keyboard) when played by inexperienced beginners. Therefore, when played by better players and especially once warmed up, the barrel should be ‘pulled’ usually 1.5- 2.5mm. This will bring most pitches into line but some additional ‘distributive’ tuning may be necessary. This is accomplished by pulling out at the middle joint and or bell in more extreme cases. Sometimes a particular mouthpiece will have a tendency to play sharp or flat and by changing this an otherwise ‘difficult’ instrument will come into line. The Vandoren series 13 range was created with the desire to help players ‘bring down’ pitch to A = 440 where necessary. Professional players with well-developed embouchures and settled playing concepts often use longer barrels in order to create the most stable possible pitch platform throughout the full range of the instrument. Key/pad venting height is a factor in the evenness of both pitch and tone colour and must be sensitively examined for optimal playing. The clarinet’s general tendency, unique among the woodwind family as it over blows at the 12^th rather than the octave, is towards flatness, with the exception of the throat tones which are often sharp and thin and the upper register that is often played with too much lip pressure and can tend towards sharpness. Middle Bb2 and upper C3 are particular concerns for many players. The addition of fingers of the right/left hand (sometimes referred to as resonance fingering) is often done to help the tuning of and enrich the sound of throat register A2 and Bb2.

Oboe – Most oboists count on their oboe to be as stable as possible so that their tuning is done with the reed, often choosing the staple length and the overall tied length of the reed blades specifically to match their instrument. The oboe is highly flexible and playing fatigue and the condition of the reed will continually affect pitch. In the correctly assembled position the reed should be pushed completely into the receiver socket. This is the optimal playing position. It is best practice to avoid pulling out the reed to try to adjust pitch downwards as this creates other problems by introducing a ‘bulge’ to the bore where the staple has been pulled back out of the socket. The player handles small adjustments for pitch and tonal consistency with the position of the reed on the lip and air support. The natural tendency of the oboe is toward sharpness especially as tiredness sets in. Reeds tend to drop in pitch as they tire or close up. The upper register, due to the difficulties of production, is often quite sharp and care must be taken. Too heavy a reed will lead to sharpness due to the effort of involved in producing a tone – too soft and the sound will be thin and pitch will drift downwards.

Bassoon – The bassoon is such a long instrument that corrections made by pulling the crook out from the receiver socket, affecting as they do only the shorter wing joint notes, are virtually pointless. The player usually has a choice of crook lengths provided to them with their instrument and most will use a number 2 (crooks are available from a nominal 0 to 3, the higher number being longer and therefore providing a lower pitch level). Distributive pulling at the joints can help in a severe tuning situation (being sharp but needing to play at a lower pitch) but keywork linking across the joints is a limitation as is the undesirable introduction of a gap in the bore. Like the oboe pitch adjustments are often made at the reed and this can be successful for the shorter tube notes, principally E and F, but notes with a longer sounding tube length will not benefit nearly as much from reed adjustment alone. The tendency of the bassoon is towards sharpness, especially in the low register. This is an acoustic choice for if the instrument were absolutely to pitch in ideal conditions it would be impossible to bring up the pitch of the long tube low notes when cold. Players become used to keeping pitch down by playing with a relaxed embouchure, internal tongue position in the oral cavity and solid air support.

Saxophone – The saxophone has very flexible mouthpiece positioning on the crook and the resulting pitch is highly dependent upon good embouchure and air control from the player. There are known acoustical compromises in the tuning of the sax but as the general tendency is towards sharpness the player must be very careful not to start with the mouthpiece position too far on the crook cork as all notes will then be sharp, especially the high register. One should not pull off too far either (a decision often prompted by an attempt to compensate for a poor embouchure understanding and improper air support), as this will distort the shortest notes disproportionately and throw off the balance of the response throughout especially the low register. Players must work to learn to support well and relax the embouchure as much as possible and when this is well understood the instrument settles into a manageable and predictable pattern. Tuning is highly influenced by mouthpiece selection and high baffle jazz mouthpieces in particular often require great skill from a player to be able play well in tune, as they will tend to tune more sharply.

Valved Brass – If an higher range brass instrument (trumpet or cornet) has been properly manufactured it will play it’s intended ‘ideal’ tuning pattern with little mechanical adjustment beyond a pull of the main tuning slide and secondary pulls for specific notes at the moveable 1^st and 3^rd slides. The player must work within the acoustical limitations of the instrument to compensate with the lips for small idiosyncrasies. The larger the instrument the greater will be some of the known acoustical distortions and for euphonium and tuba especially additional valves, compensating mechanisms and tubing lengths are often added or manipulated to assist in obtaining better tuning in all registers, especially the low register. The french horn, being a very long tubing instrument, is played almost exclusively in the mid to upper range of the available tones and as a result produces quite a stable pitch platform. Never the less it does have some very distinctive tuning requirements. It is fair to say that well made instruments are intended to be able to play in tune with a consistent, minimal distributive pull of the valve tuning slides as long as the player plays with a good embouchure and airstream and is prepared to make further subtle adjustments with the bell hand.

Trombone – Aside from a standard pull of between 1–2cm at the main tuning slide all the rest of the tuning for a well-made trombone is accomplished between the slide positions, the player’s embouchure and solid airstream. Some instruments have their own individual acoustical ‘quirks’; but of all the brass and woodwind instruments the trombone has the greatest ability to be played ‘in tune’ with few mechanical limitations. The trombone relies more than anything on a player’s hearing and relative tuning recognition for correct pitch placement as well as the ability to consistently supply the instrument with the correct air and embouchure balance.

----------------

The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful. 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Clarinet Response and The One Handed Scale

Clarinet Response and 'The One Handed Scale'

One of more challenging early stages of clarinet learning is gaining control of the upper clarion register, specifically G3 at the top of the staff through to C3 and the first notes entering the true upper range, C# and D. I certainly remember to this day how these notes at first felt very 'wild' and later I well remember struggling with both consistent and accurate pitching and placement of this range. I wish I knew in my youth what I know now but that was not available to me!

As a teacher I feel that a great opportunity is almost always missed when introducing this register to a younger player. The mistake so often made is introducing the expectation that the upper register plays simply with the addition of the register key to the lower register fingerings. Reliance on the register key alone, while possible with reasonable effort, does not prepare the player (of any age) for the sympathetic placement and shaping that should take place in the aural cavity in order to play and tune this register most reliably. This is best accomplished by understanding that the register key is an aid to sounding these notes but it's performance is not automatic.

In my own regular practice and in my teaching now I use the production of harmonics to make sure that I have correctly shaped my airstream and to play this upper register properly. With a higher, lifted placement of the tongue, and careful application of a sufficiently pressurised airstream, it should be possible to sound the entire clarion register by simply repeating the lower chalumeau register fingerings (low E through open G2) - without using employing the register key.  Admittedly this takes a bit of practice and a some patience of course but it teaches a number of very useful concepts

• 'hearing' and anticipating the feel of upper notes before they are begun
• correct balance between reed strength and embouchure pressure
• increased reliance on air support
• decreased expectancy on lip pressure as a part of the playing of 'high' notes
• stability and predictability of pitch
• increased resonance for all pitches as unnecessary lip pressure is discarded

If regular practice of these 'overtone' harmonics is encouraged early enough many of the problems of producing the upper register tones simply disappear.

Even if a player has long ago succeeded in understanding this register there is almost certain to be a time when, on his/her Bb clarinet, or more likely an A clarinet, there will be an entrance or a sustained quite passage on a note in the range A3 through C3 where 'something' does not feel right or the notes 'crack' downwards or simply not seem to want to behave. When this occurs it is very unnerving and I well remember how helpless I felt when I experienced this phenomenon for the first time. I sought to find answers in the regulation of the instrument, in changing the key heights venting, experimenting with reed strength and mouthpiece changes - all to only limited benefit. Years later I was introduced to learning to play overtones as above and to 'The One Handed Scale' and these approaches improved my playing greatly.

I was introduced to 'The One Handed Scale' by clarinet designer, acoustician and performer Tom Ridenour and I wish to acknowledge him and thank him for the time and interest he displayed in showing me this. The production is simple and I would encourage all clarinet players to give it a try:

Staring with long fingered middle C2, utilising the RH F/C key play the first 5 notes of a C major scale exactly as normal - including use of the register key. When ready to play the 6th note, A3, replace your fingers on the starting fingering for C2 and 'think' and shape higher, as if to 'miss' the note deliberately, and if you are fortunate, you will be able to sound an admittedly false sounding A3 as an harmonic of C2. For the next 2 notes simply finger middle register D2 and Eb2 while continuing to 'think' and 'shape' for the harmonic register. You will have played your C major scale and only have used your right hand! 'The One Handed Scale'.

If you find the A3 difficult to sound you are not alone. Acoustically it is the weakest harmonic note of this range and requires the most shaping from the player. Sometimes it is easier to access it and learn the proper feel to expect by descending from overblown fingered Eb2 (sounding C3) going to fingered D2 (sounding B3) and then working to settle into fingered C2 (sounding A3). Experiment with tongue, air and lip positions to improve the pitching and resonance of these notes. The difference when one returns to 'normal fingerings' is remarkable and can make a huge difference to how you feel about this register. If you have enjoyed this process you can, of course, expand upon the ideas expressed above and apply the principal of overblown harmonics to a number of other scales and passages where this sort of practice might help improve the results of 'normal' playing later. It can be great fun and a useful challenge for anyone. Best wishes.

------------------

The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.


Thomas Dryer-Beers

The Clarinet Intonation Learning Curve

The Clarinet Intonation Learning Curve


Perhaps you remember your first sounds on the clarinet? Mine remain fresh in my mind even after many years. They were frankly ugly, unpredictable and unrewarding - but I was determined to get better and of course, with practice, things did improve. Almost everyone who begins playing the clarinet will have some version of my experience and perhaps by sharing some of the usual stages of progression to playing well some benefit can be gained and some frustrations avoided.

Pre-Grade 1 to approximately Grade 2 standard -

When we begin the initial sounds, when they are produced at all, are often very spread in tone and flat in pitch. A combination of a yet to develop embouchure, often too great a quantity of air in use and a thin reed make such results predictable. Manufactures know this is likely to be the case and they design their student instruments to be able to correct for this when assembled completely 'pushed in'.

A helpful tip is to not worry too much (or not at all) about the higher (clarion) register and to concentrate upon making a good and predictable tone in the lower (chalumeau) register. As most beginners seem to be recommended to begin on a soft reed, strength 1.5 usually, this should work well for starting off but by the time one comes to play in the upper register it is probably best to have moved on to a slightly stronger strength. Strength 2 or 2.5 depending upon the brand would be my recommendation.

Whilst still concentrating on the low register it is possible to improve the tone quality by concentrating on using a well-supported, fast moving air stream that is delivered to the instrument in an appropriate quantity for the note(s) being played. It is worth checking that a Concert C can be sounded on the clarinet mouthpiece alone. This is the highest pitch sensibly available on the mouthpiece and the only correct pitch when the embouchure and air are in balance.

A useful concept that I have often shared is:

'The Two Q's': Quantity and Quality.

Players should always be aware of supplying the appropriate Quantity of air for whatever notes are being played, varying with the register, the volume being attempted, the type of attack and the timbre or expression sought.

They must always use the best Quality of air that they can produce - this never varies and is the foundation of all beautiful playing. The degree of success one has in musical performance at all stages of learning is usually a direct indication of how well this principle has been understood and incorporated.

Grade 3 to approximately Grade 6 standard -

So, after beginning to play and everything seem to be pitched flat one is improving, blowing better air, managing with a firmer reed and the embouchure is beginning to develop. The upper register is being attempted and expectations are rising. So often is pitch! It is time to consider pulling out the barrel from the top joint of the student clarinet (up to 3mm is not unusual) and even consider additional 'distributive tuning' at the middle tenon and at the bell if necessary. Often a willingness to play with too great an embouchure pressure has taken over the best practice on the supply of air. If this is the case a symptom may be that newly learned altissimo register notes (D3 above the staff and higher) will likely be thin sounding, unstable and 'brittle' as well as sharp. Keep working at The Two Q's and remember - high notes are not meant to be hard to play - they are just more demanding of accuracy in blowing.

Grade 7 and beyond -

You will hopefully have upgraded to a higher quality instrument and better mouthpiece by now. In addition your altissimo notes (high F, F#, G and above) have become an important focus and regular expectation for your playing, hopefully your overall tuning has begun to stabilise and the characteristics of your instrument, as designed by the manufacturer are beginning to be recognised. You should be aware that your lowest 'bell notes' (low E through low F#) are usually low in pitch so that the corresponding 12th above (middle B, through C#) are not uncomfortably sharp in their tuning. Left hand first first finger and thumb E and thumb F are often intentionally a bit low so that their overblown 12ths, the upper B and C, are not incorrect-ably sharp. Throat A and Bb, notes that once seemed very flat and ugly in tone now are much closer to true pitch and will actually benefit from the addition of combinations of right and left hand fingers, referred to as 'resonance fingerings' that will help to lower pitch and enrich the tone.

It is worth reminding oneself that the clarinet, as with all wind instruments, is an acoustical compromise with inherent challenges to be overcome. Once these known compromises are recognised and understood it is possible, with a well supported and appropriately shaped air stream and flexible embouchure control, to obtain predictable and very functional intonation - ultimately leaving one able to match and blend with other players, difficult performance conditions and ensembles where other players do not play as well 'in tune' as you do!

------------------

The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful. 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

The Saxophone Intonation Learning Curve

The Saxophone Intonation Learning Curve

When a player begins playing the saxophone it is natural to accept just about any sound and tuning as acceptable. After all there are some many other things to think about and the instrument is designed to blow easily and usually does - as long as we provide it with a reasonable air stream and allow the reed to vibrate.

As one slowly gets better and wishes to demonstrate more control over the tone quality a progression towards the use of stronger reeds begins and this is to be welcomed. As the embouchure and the ability to support the air column both develop there is frequently a perception that, in order to keep a reed from 'closing up', a still stiffer reed and possibly a more open tip mouthpiece must be used. While this might be true in some cases is is certainly questionable for many players.

Why is this important? Because the degree of effort required to produce the basic sound and the related embouchure strength used contribute very directly to the ability to play the saxophone in tune.

When beginning the middle range notes we first encounter are fairly predictable and our standards are lower. We do not know how to play 'up high' and are not often asked to do more than honk out low notes. The overall tuning is often rather flat and the tone unfocused. As progress is made and high notes are attempted they are usually found to be thin in tone and can be unreliable. It follows then that we are suggested to try a stronger reed to aid playing in this upper register. In the normal course of events this change makes the high palm key notes easier to produce and makes the playing of lower notes more challenging. With a bit more practice and progress a sensitivity to a more consistent tone and pitch begins to develop and, following tuning to a concert A (or Bb) as one will usually start out doing, comes the realisation that even in this 'in tune' position upper octave notes will often be quite sharp, lower register notes (low D and below) quite flat, middle D very sharp and, especially when played in close proximity to the middle D, the middle C# will be found to be very flat.

This realisation can be and often is very upsetting to the player and can be the beginning of a great deal of searching for answers to the problem of 'playing out of tune' including changes of equipment and much self doubt. What is missing is a simple realisation that all players and especially teachers should try to keep in mind at all times:

The design of all acoustic wind instruments is a compromise and best performance relies upon the player understanding the compromises made.

 

An octave key is only an aid, it is not a substitute for correct blowing and proper 'voicing' in the aural cavity for the register desired. An embouchure that is ill formed (too tight or too lose) can distort the tuning of any instrument. A poorly supported air column will cause response and tonal problems even with the finest of equipment available. An internal shape in the aural cavity will compromise the response and tuning despite the very best embouchure.

The best tuning position for the mouthpiece on the crook is where (with whatever skills the player has by that stage developed) the greatest portion of the instrument's range can be manipulated into an acceptable 'pattern' of tuning.

 

 Manufacturers try to anticipate what their customers will be able to manage and are of course taking advice on their designs from highly experienced performers. Each firm then decides how to accomplish the goal of creating instruments of character with stable intonation patterns.

The saxophone, with its two and one half octave standard range, relies upon two octave vents that are automatically linked to switch depending upon the fingering used (the exchange happens between upper G# and A). The first note that benefits from an octave key will always have a tendency to be sharp - on saxophones this is middle D and upper A.

NB - If for the player these two notes (middle D and upper A) are not able to be adjusted down ('lipped down') to pitch successfully then this is an indication of a deeper problem with air support and embouchure that must be rectified - this will benefit all notes on the sax. I suggest checking the pitch sounded playing on the mouthpiece alone. This should be no higher than a concert A, better an Ab, for the alto, for tenor concert G, better a Gb, for the soprano concert C and for baritone concert D.

The last notes prior to the engagement of an octave key will be weaker and have a tendency to be flat - on saxophones this is middle C# and upper G#. The upper G# in particular (and sometimes G) will often 'fall' or break downwards in the absence of a well supported air stream. The response and accuracy of all other notes within the range of the interval of the vent's use will vary proportionally with their position within the range of the vent. There will always be a 'stretch' between the octaves of the same fingered pitch.

The longest 'bell' notes will often be flatter not only because the instrument often does not 'warm-up' sufficiently for this end of the sax but they must not be tuned 'sharp' or the overall overtone characteristics of the instrument will be affected. High register palm key notes will often be sharp not only because they are at the mercy of a correct embouchure and air balance but also because that end of the instrument becomes very warm through constant playing and the last thing a player wishes to find is that they should have to 'lip up' a high note when so much effort is being made to achieve the best tone and tuning through relaxing the embouchure throughout the rest of the range.

Understanding and accepting that such compromises in designs are inescapable will hopefully prompt attention being given to achieving the best possible air/embouchure/aural cavity position while playing and lead on to anticipating the now much smaller corrections required to address the remaining subtleties of correct pitching.

---------------


The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Tips on How to Trial a Saxophone CASS Article

 

Tips on How to Trial a Saxophone

From CASS article on Choosing a Saxophone, by Thomas Dryer-Beers

   

Tips on How to Trial a Saxophone

• Play all instruments with a mouthpiece and reed that you know well. Too many variables make attempting comparisons a nonsense.
• Take along or have in mind some music you are familiar with of the type you wish to play - be prepared.
• If you know the technique of over-blowing octaves and twelfths use this to see whether the instrument is 'in tune with itself'. Alternatively find a reliable 'fixed pitch' source and carefully tune to it. You can get a very poor feeling from an instrument if you do not get the mouthpiece correctly positioned on the crook for proper tuning. Be wary of relying on electronic tuners. All saxophones are acoustic compromises. When you use a tuner you are generally learning more about yourself and how you play than about any individual instrument.
• Test a range of volumes. Instruments reveal more of their tonal colour when blown loudly but you will want to know that you can sustain the sound softly as well.
• Other than checking for finger fluency and comfort, fast notes don't inform you nearly as well as sustained tones. A point worth remembering is that spring tensions or keys can be adjusted if they are too strong or too weak. Never reject an instrument because a spring feels odd.
• Test the response at the high and low extremes of the range but don't expect miracles - especially when tonguing. It takes a while to really get to know a new instrument and you may need to make some adjustments (for the better - this is known as 'progress'!). If you select a sax that plays just like your old instrument you have to wonder whether the purchase was worthwhile.
• Compare alternative fingerings, e.g. the several Bb, C, F# options to see if the instrument has been well set-up. This can be an indication of good preparation by the seller.

It is worth considering that you are most likely to choose a sax that suits your own level of ability (as long as finances permit). Therefore, as every individual is unique, not all players will find themselves choosing the same model. 

What matters most is that the saxophone selected is one that will provide you with the greatest encouragement and inspiration for your musical future.

--------------

The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

CASS Article - Choosing a Saxophone - Incorporating How to Trial an Instrument

Choosing a Saxophone

 Written for the Clarinet and Saxophone Society Journal of Great Britain

an article by Thomas Dryer-Beers

Choosing a saxophone, either to begin one's studies, to indulge a long nurtured wish to play or to invest at the professional level on 'an instrument for life' has in many ways never been easier. The quality of the various models available is generally high at all price levels - the differences between similarly priced saxophones are not huge and even the variation between starter instruments and top of the range models is relatively small. This means that in many ways it is difficult to make a truly bad investment as long as one is aware of a few important points.

Saxophones seem to be offered from all corners of the world these days. Gone are the times when the only choice seemed to be to buy French or American. Very successful instruments are now also being manufactured in Japan, Germany, the Czech Republic, Italy, the numerous workshops of Taiwan and in recent years China, and one can become overwhelmed indeed! Added to this there is increasing globalisation of parts manufacture, assembly and sourcing of the accessories that come supplied with an instrument.

Improving designs and standards of manufacture in student saxophones and fierce competition in professional pricing have meant that the notion of an intermediate instrument, in anything other than price, is almost completely gone. Many models that were considered to be of professional standard 30-50 years ago would no longer be recommended by teachers as adequate for learning. Many once rather expensive student models have been supplanted by better-designed and less expensive new models.

In order to form an unbiased opinion of the performance of an instrument (indeed even models by the same maker) each saxophone should be evaluated on its own merits, not necessarily by its name or past history. Responsible music shops undertake just such evaluations on a continuing basis in order to be able to offer their customers the best of all the available models. This helps to ensure that as much as possible, your choice of saxophone will be of the correct standard to do the job for which it is being purchased.

Beginner Level Choice

Since so many makes of student instruments have borrowed (even directly copied) features of dominant professional instruments, it is now possible to experience the feel of many top name saxophones in some budget priced models. Some recent models have borrowed keywork design, others body tube proportions, and others attempt to reproduce the weight or mass in the brass alloy used.

So, how can a new player begin to select their sax? A good way to start perhaps, is by conversing with knowledgeable sax playing colleagues, teacher to be, school etc. Then select a recommended specialist shop in which you can have confidence. A definite plus will be a shop with in-house repair technicians as their contribution is vital in ensuring a good experience.

When you visit you should explain your situation and ask to view recommended models within an affordable price range. Having been provided with a selection of instruments to hold, or better yet to play, however inexpertly, players will almost always to be able to identify something that will help them form preferences and eventually lead them to a selection. All the many contributing factors which make up the instrument contribute to a 'feel' and players will often separate themselves broadly into two categories - those who, particularly at the earliest stages, wish to experience playing as easily as possible, and those who are looking for something more than just ease of blowing in the character of sound. I should quickly say that such a comparison test will be most useful if the same mouthpiece and reed are used across all the instruments tried. More on that later.

Any good quality beginner model is likely to see a young player through at least grades five to six. If they are keen to continue to play then their investment in a good student instrument will then have prepared the way for a smooth transition to a professional instrument when the time is right. As a result, I feel that a new player's early preferences for sound and feel can be indulged largely without adverse consequences. What really matters is that the instrument selected be well made and that a suitable, good quality mouthpiece is obtained. It is now possible to invest well at the beginning, upgrade a quality student instrument with a 'professional' mouthpiece and later purchase a 'top-grade' pro model after a few years of experience (perhaps around grade seven to eight level) with neither your learning opportunities or your bank balance suffering inordinately. I feel that this development should be very encouraging to players and might inspire greater confidence in parents with children eager to learn.

What Constitutes Good Value?

Ask a good repairer and they will confirm that even the best pads, properly seated, will not perform well if there is motion in the fit of the keywork or poor regulation. It is worth checking closely how much long key rods (such as those used for the G key, high E and bell B and Bb) are able to 'move about' when pushed sideways. Similarly, check how much lateral travel short keys like side Bb, high F and palm D experience under stress. As the fit of these keys is dependent upon both the quality of materials and good construction standards (contributing to additional expense for the manufacturer) many cheaper instruments will not pass this 'fitness' test. Such an instrument will probably have other manufacturer related problems and will be likely to become unreliable and expensive to maintain in the future. If regulations, particularly those which govern the articulated G# key, the left hand C correspondence and the related closure of the bis Bb key are not correctly set, then the finest instrument will perform little better than the worst. If an instrument is soundly made and well set-up it will be much more likely to play satisfactorily for longer and, when maintenance work is required (as it surely will be in time) the job will go much better.

Professional Level Choice

This brings me to the vexed topic of professional models. How does one choose with confidence? In the broadest terms a musician selects a saxophone at this level as a 'tool of the trade'. Does it do what he/she wants it to do? Will it be respected in musical circles? Does it fit the image of what an instrument should be? All of these points are valid ones but for me the bottom line is much simpler.

Does this instrument inspire you to want to practise and play? If so, then you are surely on to a winner. Remember also - If they all seem so good that you cannot choose between them, then you cannot truly consider any choice a mistake.

Every person's experience is bound to be different. Some find the right saxophone early on and then continue to use it out of preference throughout their lifetime. Others find that their changing tastes, the introduction of new products, a change of circumstance, professional opportunities, etc. will dictate that many different saxes be purchased during the course of a career. As long as you are being well served by your instrument you should feel good!

Before closing it is worth mentioning something regarding the increasing diversity of metals being used for saxophone bodies and the many finishes which now proliferate. In my personal opinion these are largely a diversion from the real essence of an instrument. Each reputable manufacturer attempts to create an identity for their products. Each seeks to create a consistency in the feel, intonation, resistance, appearance and tonal colour to unify their models. In general, such identity is achieved through the acoustic design of instruments, through some specific keywork features and very importantly, via the body tube mass/alloy used. Cosmetic finishes on the standard brass tubing e.g. silver plate, enamel of any colour or lacquer have a proportionally minute effect when compared with the more important structural elements. 

Different metals such as bronze, silver or nickel do make more of a difference, as the instrument will actually resonate with different frequencies given prominence by the vibrating metal. Even this is moderated by the fact that, unlike brass instruments, the tube of the sax is not fully engaged at all times in vibration. Patently it has holes in it and with the dampening effect of lots of leather pads affecting every note differently the overall contribution of these various materials is diminished. If looks are very important to you then by all means select from the range of options available with the knowledge that not much benefit comes from the finishes, and the confidence that not much loss occurs either. I'll always go with what really plays for me.

One of my teachers once gave me some very wise advice whilst encouraging me to consider the benefits I might gain from changing my own well-loved instrument for another. He implored me to 'learn to love the saxophone not a saxophone'. These words have proved themselves invaluable numerous times during my own musical career and never has this advice seemed more appropriate than during the preparation of this article.

How To Trial An Instrument

• Play all instruments with a mouthpiece and reed that you know well. Too many variables make attempting comparisons a nonsense.
• Take along or have in mind some music you are familiar with of the type you wish to play - be prepared.
• If you know the technique of over-blowing octaves and twelfths use this to see whether the instrument is 'in tune with itself'. Alternatively find a reliable 'fixed pitch' source and carefully tune to it. You can get a very poor feeling from an instrument if you do not get the mouthpiece correctly positioned on the crook for proper tuning. Be wary of relying on electronic tuners. All saxophones are acoustic compromises. When you use a tuner you are generally learning more about yourself and how you play than about any individual instrument.
• Test a range of volumes. Instruments reveal more of their tonal colour when blown loudly but you will want to know that you can sustain the sound softly as well.
• Other than checking for finger fluency and comfort, fast notes don't inform you nearly as well as sustained tones. A point worth remembering is that spring tensions or keys can be adjusted if they are too strong or too weak. Never reject an instrument because a spring feels odd.
• Test the response at the high and low extremes of the range but don't expect miracles - especially when tonguing. It takes a while to really get to know a new instrument and you may need to make some adjustments (for the better - this is known as 'progress'!). If you select a sax that plays just like your old instrument you have to wonder whether the purchase was worthwhile.
• Compare alternative fingerings, e.g. the several Bb, C, F# options to see if the instrument has been well set-up. This can be an indication of good preparation by the seller.

It is worth considering that you are most likely to choose a sax that suits your own level of ability (as long as finances permit). Therefore, as every individual is unique, not all players will find themselves choosing the same model. What matters most is that the saxophone selected is one that will provide you with the greatest encouragement and inspiration for your musical future.

The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Instrumental Design - Tuning characteristics and positions.

 

In the specialist shop environment I have frequently been asked to comment on the tuning characteristics of instruments, both recent and older vintage models. This is a summary of the knowledge I have gained, published manufacturer information and advice I have received over many years - much of it reinforced by my personal experience. Thomas

Instrumental Design – Emphasis on tuning characteristics and proper tuning positions.

Modern musical instruments, manufactured by responsible firms, have benefited from enormous investments in research and design consultation with artists. The overall standard of wind instrument manufacture has never been higher and the area of greatest improvement is to be found at the student level. While superior materials and expert craftsmanship contribute to making some older models highly desirable in the eyes of knowledgeable players the advent of computer aided design and assembly has brought about vast improvements in performance and pitch consistency for quality modern instruments across the board.

Tuning

Most markets around the world aim for A = 440 (UK, USA, Australia) or at most A = 442 (Europe). Austria is an exception where A = 444 or 445 is still a preference. Instrument manufacturers design their products to these pitches under ideal conditions of approximately 72 degree Fahrenheit / 22 degrees Celsius, (i.e. room temperature). In practice there remains quite a lot for the player to understand and to learn to utilise to help her or himself to accomplish truly playing in tune.

Comfortable, room temperature conditions are rarely found in performance situations but since these are what are utilised when designing the instruments an instrument must be able to be played both above and below the intended ‘ideal’ pitch in order to accommodate adverse conditions.

Flute – the head cork must be in the correct position – check this with cleaning rod line - it must show up in the middle of the embouchure hole. The headjoint itself is usually pulled out from the fully ‘pushed-in’ position approximately 3-5mm (sometimes more) depending upon blowing style, angle of air stream and embouchure. Too far out and the player is must compensate for flat low notes, splitting tones and a dull high register – too far in and the compensation is all downwards with the lip and blowing angle. Overblown octaves, harmonics of 12ths and double octaves should all nominally ‘line-up’ when tested. The player must then handle smaller adjustments for pitch accuracy and tonal colour. The general tendency of the flute is towards sharpness especially in the upper register and when playing loudly. Pitch will sag when playing soft without great care and good air support from the player.

NB – on all other instruments the tendency is for pitch to sharpen when playing more softly.

Clarinet – Instrument manufacturers intend that a clarinet, when pushed all the way in, should play sharp. Student instruments are usually supplied with shorter barrels to allow for tuning to fixed pitch instruments (i.e. a piano or keyboard) when played by inexperienced beginners. Therefore, when played by better players and especially once warmed up, the barrel should be ‘pulled’ usually 1.5- 2.5mm. This will bring most pitches into line but some additional ‘distributive’ tuning may be necessary. This is accomplished by pulling out at the middle joint and or bell in more extreme cases. Sometimes a particular mouthpiece will have a tendency to play sharp or flat and by changing this an otherwise ‘difficult’ instrument will come into line. The Vandoren series 13 range was created with the desire to help players ‘bring down’ pitch to A = 440 where necessary. Professional players with well-developed embouchures and settled playing concepts often use longer barrels in order to create the most stable possible pitch platform throughout the full range of the instrument. Key/pad venting height is a factor in the evenness of both pitch and tone colour and must be sensitively examined for optimal playing. The clarinet’s general tendency, unique among the woodwind family as it over blows at the 12^th rather than the octave, is towards flatness, with the exception of the throat tones which are often sharp and thin and the upper register that is often played with too much lip pressure and can tend towards sharpness. Middle Bb and upper C3 are particular concerns for many players. The addition of fingers of the right hand is often done to help the tuning of and enrich the sound of throat register A and Bb.

Oboe – Most oboists count on their oboe to be as stable as possible so that their tuning is done with the reed, often choosing the staple length and the overall tied length of the reed blades specifically to match their instrument. The oboe is highly flexible and playing fatigue and the condition of the reed will continually affect pitch. In the correctly assembled position the reed should be pushed completely into the receiver socket. This is the optimal playing position. It is best practice to avoid pulling out the reed to try to adjust pitch downwards as this creates other problems by introducing a ‘bulge’ to the bore where the staple has been pulled back out of the socket. The player handles small adjustments for pitch and tonal consistency with the position of the reed on the lip and air support. The natural tendency of the oboe is toward sharpness especially as tiredness sets in. Reeds tend to drop in pitch as they tire or close up. The upper register, due to the difficulties of production, is often quite sharp and care must be taken. Too heavy a reed will lead to sharpness due to the effort of involved in producing a tone – too soft and the sound will be thin and pitch will drift downwards.

Bassoon – The bassoon is such a long instrument that corrections made by pulling the crook out from the receiver socket are virtually pointless. The player usually has a choice of crook lengths provided to them with their instrument and most will use a number 2 (crooks are available from a nominal 0 to 3, the higher number being longer and therefore providing a lower pitch level). Distributive pulling at the joints can help in a severe tuning situation (being sharp but needing to play at a lower pitch) but keywork linking across the joints is a limitation as is the undesirable introduction of a gap in the bore. Like the oboe pitch adjustments are often made at the reed and this can be successful for the shorter tube notes, principally E and F, but notes with a longer sounding tube length will not benefit nearly as much from reed adjustment alone. The tendency of the bassoon is towards sharpness, especially in the low register. This is an acoustic choice for if the instrument were absolutely to pitch in ideal conditions it would be impossible to bring up the pitch of the long tube low notes when cold. Players become used to keeping pitch down by playing with a relaxed embouchure, internal tongue position in the oral cavity and solid air support.

Saxophone – The saxophone has very flexible mouthpiece positioning on the crook and the resulting pitch is highly dependent upon good embouchure and air control from the player. There are known acoustical compromises in the tuning of the sax but as the tendency is towards sharpness the player must be very careful not to start with the mouthpiece position too far on the crook cork as all notes will then be sharp, especially the high register. One should not pull off too far either (a decision often prompted by an attempt to compensate for a poor embouchure understanding and improper air support), as this will distort the shortest notes disproportionately and throw off the balance of the response throughout especially the low register. Players must work to learn to support well and relax the embouchure as much as possible and when this is well understood the instrument settles into a manageable and predictable pattern. Tuning is highly influenced by mouthpiece selection and high baffle jazz mouthpieces in particular often require great skill from a player to be able play well in tune, as they will tend to tune more sharply.

Valved Brass – If an higher range brass instrument (trumpet or cornet) has been properly manufactured it will play it’s intended ‘ideal’ tuning pattern with little mechanical adjustment beyond a pull of the main tuning slide and secondary pulls for specific notes at the 1^st and 3^rd slides. The player must work within the acoustical limitations of the instrument to compensate with the lips for small idiosyncrasies. The larger the instrument the greater some of the known acoustical distortions and for euphonium and tuba especially additional valves, compensating mechanisms and tubing lengths are often added or manipulated to assist in obtaining better tuning in all registers, especially the low register. The french horn, being a very long tubing instrument, is played almost exclusively in the mid to upper range of the available tones and as a result produces quite a stable pitch platform. Never the less it does have some very distinctive tuning requirements. It is fair to say that well made instruments are intended to be able to play in tune with a consistent, minimal distributive pull of the valve tuning slides as long as the player plays with a good embouchure and airstream.

Trombone – Aside from a standard pull of between 1–2cm at the main tuning slide all the rest of the tuning for a well-made trombone is accomplished between the slide positions, the player’s embouchure and solid airstream. Instruments have their own individual acoustical ‘quirks; but of all the brass and woodwind instruments the trombone has the greatest ability to be played ‘in tune’ with few mechanical limitations. The trombone relies more than anything on a player’s hearing and relative tuning recognition for correct pitch placement as well as the ability to consistently supply the instrument with the correct air and embouchure balance.

---------------

The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers