Upper Register Performance Soprano Sax - A Question

A question was posed to me last week and as there are many elements of my reply that might be of interest to others I offer the following on this topic.

Question:

I struggle with getting high notes on my soprano sax. Should I change my reed (strength) ?

Reply:

Changing your reed strength may be helpful but just playing a harder reed (I have to assume this is what you mean) will not necessarily be the answer. The soprano sax should not be more ‘difficult’ than other saxophones but its small size means that it may be more critical. Little things will make big differences. Every aspect of your playing technique is ‘under the microscope’ in ways larger saxes do not require to the same degree. This is why prior experience in alto or tenor sax is usually recommended before adding the soprano to your saxophone armoury.

There are many factors that will affect the response and stability of the saxophone upper register, especially on soprano, so a review of them may be useful:

• The embouchure must still be ‘round and supportive’ but not too tight. Playing a stable concert C on the soprano mouthpiece setup alone is a good target (concert Ab for alto, concert Gb for tenor).
• The correct amount of mouthpiece in the mouth is very important – too much in the mouth and the sound and upper register response will suffer, too little and the tone will be dead and both high and low registers will be compromised.
• The airstream used should feel significantly faster for the soprano and if the high notes are unstable you may need to ‘focus’ the air into a smaller yet still energetic stream in order to provide what the upper range notes require.
• The quantity of air used for different registers will need to be varied – higher, shorter tube notes require less (they are easy to overpower) whereas lower, longer tube notes will require a proportionally greater volume of air to fill the tube and stabilise their response.
• Inside your oral cavity the tongue must have a more exaggerated ‘arch’ position than what you use on the alto, tenor or baritone and this arch is closer to the rear of the mouth. This is a bit like saying the vowel sound ‘Eeeeee’
• Your mouthpiece must be in a good tuning position on the cork. If pulled off too far the low notes will not speak properly and high notes will be very flat in pitch and unresponsive. If the mouthpiece is pushed on too far on you might think all is okay - until you check your tuning – when you are likely to find the high register to be extremely sharp and the instrument very out of tune with itself.
• If your mouthpiece tip opening is moderate or narrow then a medium to medium strong reed (strength 2.5 to 3.5 in most brands) is likely to be required in order to provide stability throughout the instrumental range, right up to high F# or G.
• If your mouthpiece tip opening is on the larger side a somewhat softer reed may provide a better match. Too strong and you will find yourself fighting the low register and having to ‘bite’ too hard to make your basic sound.
• Higher baffle mouthpieces (including many jazz style mouthpieces) will be generally brighter and in fact may facilitate upper register playing but may also demand more relaxation in the embouchure and ‘favouring’ downward for pitch. Moderate or lower baffle mouthpieces are generally more stable for intonation and are likely be more manageable throughout the entire range.

As a guide I would suggest that you are in search of a reed strength that provides enough resistance to meet the demands of your properly focused and well-regulated airstream without excess embouchure pressure required.

Success with higher register notes should follow.

The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful. 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

High Energy / High Baffle Sax Mouthpieces

High Energy / High Baffle Sax Mouthpieces

A recent question from a pupil revived this subject for me and inspired some further thoughts that I would like to share.

The subject of how a sax player creates a distinctive sound and musical personality is complicated and one of the biggest factors is the mouthpiece and reed 'set-up' they choose. For many players their choice of equipment is an evolution, from whatever was supplied with their starter instrument, to perhaps a mouthpiece recommended by a tutor or colleague, to mouthpieces that they have selected themselves following many comparisons and perhaps finally to one inspired by an influential player whose sound and musical approach seem to represent exactly what one wishes to achieve. It was whilst considering this final stage that my thoughts have recently been engaged.

One of the most attractive qualities associated with contemporary popular sax styles is an 'edgy', vibrant tone, one that is soulful and expressive and that competes, when amplified, with the sounds guitars, keyboards and synthesizers. For example, alto saxophonist David Sanborn established a personal style that was highly influential throughout the 1970's through to the present day and is now widely imitated and admired to this day. He learned how to get the most out of his Dukoff Silverite metal mouthpiece and for many players this set-up became their choice as well. Other brands including Berg Larsen (ebonite and metal), Brilhart 'Level Air' (metal), Beechler (plastic and metal), Claude Lakey (plastic) and Lawton (ebonite and metal) have also been popular (and no doubt other makes as well). The late and greatly missed Michael Brecker had huge influence on tenor saxophone sounds using his Dukoff and later Dave Guardala mouthpieces. Since the late 1980's many other manufactures have also entered the market place manufacturing 'high energy' mouthpieces.

The common factor amongst all of these mouthpieces is the presence of a 'high baffle' the terminology for which can itself cause some confusion. This feature is a reduction of the distance of the gap inside the chamber of a mouthpiece between the flat underside surface of the reed and the mouthpiece baffle itself. The result is a 'squeeze' of the vibrating air column as air passes through the gap. One could almost say that the 'ceiling' of the mouthpiece inside chamber shape has been 'lowered' to achieve this - hence the confusion. The exaggerated 'high' position of the baffle accentuates the higher overtones present in the vibrating column of air, allows for an easier response of the upper altissimo register, can make lower register tones more difficult to attack with subtlety (without playing with a subtone), may alter or accentuate intonation patterns, creates the impression of greater projection and, of course, adds 'edge'.

When many saxophonists first try such mouthpieces they can be shocked by the sounds they make. These may vary from surprisingly attractive, to promising but challenging to control, to positively ugly or sqeaky. What I believe lies behind these reactions and helps to explain the range of responses by players is something that frequently goes unstated and under appreciated:

How one uses and focuses the air stream is critical to success.

• A 'high baffle' mouthpiece must be allowed to 'do its thing' and the musician must learn how not to interfere and allow the set-up to work freely.

A frequent further contributing factor to potential disappointment is the use of too much lip pressure on the reed. High baffle mouthpieces are highly efficient. They will create their sound with a minimum of embouchure effort as long as sufficient, energised and well-focussed air is present. In fact they will often play best when matched with a slightly stronger reed as a too-soft reed will not provide sufficient resistance to the powerful air stream in use and is likely to lead to a kazoo like sound and an overall loss of control.

When I watch wonderful players deeply involved in blowing their saxes I often note the impression they can give of 'working hard' as they blow, especially as they strive for upper register notes. In fact I am convinced what is actually happening is an intense concentration on proper focus of their air stream and the removal of lip pressure.

The players are seeking the 'sweet spot':

• Where minimal lip pressure, an ideal positioning of the lower lip on reed for best vibration for the register involved and the employment of a perfectly regulated quantity of air combine to achieve the desired results.

Fine players achieve this complex balancing act so effectively that their listeners do not imagine the effort involved and, those who are themselves sax players, tend to credit their musical heroes and heroines wonderful tones and exciting musicianship to the magic of their mouthpiece - overlooking the skills they have gained through learning how to best use their equipment.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful. 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Tips on Switching Between Clarinet and Saxophone

Tips on Switching Between Clarinet and Saxophone

from The Single Reed Doctor Column, CASS Article December 2016

In response to a question posed by a member of the Clarinet and Saxophone Society of Great Britain I the reply below. I hope it might also be of interest and helpful for Wind Player Advice readers.

Question:

I play both clarinet and saxophone but find it difficult to move between the two. The sax feels very open, requiring a lot of air, while the clarinet feels tight and pressured. I have recently started playing in shows and need to improve my quick changes between the two. Is there anything I could do to my set-up that would make this easier?

My 'Single Reed Doctory' reply:

This is a very good and multifaceted question and one that I am afraid does not have a quick or straight forward answer. Some players never seem to need help with this. They just ‘get it’ and manage to double sax and clarinet seemingly without much effort. Most players need to examine this question in greater detail and the process of examination should prove useful for anyone wishing to play their best.

You will find examples of equipment intended to make switching between clarinet and saxophone easier but in my opinion this route does not help in the long run as it can obscure the issue. It is fair to say that moderate tip openings and standard chamber mouthpieces are likely to make for easier control of both instruments possible - therefore you may wish to avoid extremes - however, leaving equipment aside - a thorough understanding of the requirements for good playing on each instrument is the best way to develop your control and to achieve a rewarding, characteristic tone on both clarinet and saxophone(s).

The clarinet has a cylindrical bore and all saxophones have conical bores. This central difference contributes to not only how each instrument overblows but how it responds. The reason the sax feels so ‘open’, something quite disorienting to many clarinettists, is that the amount of air required to fill the tube is highly variable depending upon the length of tube in use and the register. The clarinet bore, to many saxophonists, feels quite ‘stuffy’ and resistant - or pressured as you suggest. This is largely due to the more consistent taper dimension of the bore (varying significantly only at the bell) and the requirement of a uniformly higher pressure throughout the entire range of the instrument regardless of the fingered length of the tube.

In my teaching I have used the concept of the Two Q’s when trying to explain this and perhaps you might find this helpful.

• The Quality of the air pressure must remain the same for both instruments, at all times and at all dynamics.

• The Quantity of the air used varies depending upon the range, register, dynamics and resistance of the instruments. This is much more obvious on the sax than the clarinet. Understanding and applying these concepts can transform a players experience.

The mouthpiece used must allow a player to be comfortable whilst utilising the best air support they can provide without requiring an excess of embouchure pressure. The appropriate resistance to a well supported air column is not just to be found at the embouchure surrounding the mouthpiece and reed but the airstream is also focused and shaped in the oral cavity via the position of the tongue. In my experience the tongue is uniformly arched higher at the back of the oral cavity on the clarinet and the progressively positioned slightly further forward in the cavity as one moves to saxophones and larger clarinets.

Time spent learning how the ‘flick the switch’ and instantly apply the appropriate blowing techniques to each instrument will mean that a player can more quickly and consistently achieve a more satisfying and convincing performance even when switching in a show environment.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful. 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Instrumental Tuning and Design - Proper Tuning Approaches

Instrumental Tuning and Design - Proper Tuning Approaches

Modern musical instruments, manufactured by responsible firms, have benefited enormously from investments in acoustical research and design consultation with artists. The overall standard of wind instrument manufacture has never been higher and the area of greatest improvement is to be found at the student level. While superior materials and expert craftsmanship contribute to making some older models highly desirable in the eyes of knowledgeable players the advent of computer aided design and assembly has brought about vast improvements in performance and pitch consistency for quality modern instruments across the board.

Tuning

Most markets around the world aim for A = 440 (UK, USA, Australia) or at most A = 442 (Europe). Austria is an exception where A = 444 or 445 is still a preference. Instrument manufacturers design their products to perform at these pitches under ideal conditions of approximately 72 degree Fahrenheit / 22 degrees Celsius, (i.e. room temperature). In practice there remains quite a lot for the player to understand and to learn to utilise to help her or himself to accomplish truly playing in tune.

Comfortable, room temperature conditions are rarely found in performance situations but since these are what are utilised at the design stage an instrument must be able to be played both above and below the intended ‘ideal’ pitch in order to accommodate adverse conditions.

Flute – the head cork must be in the correct position – check this with cleaning rod line - it must show up in the middle of the embouchure hole. The headjoint itself is usually pulled out from the fully ‘pushed-in’ position approximately 3-5mm (sometimes more) depending upon blowing style, angle of air stream and embouchure. Too far out and the player is must compensate for flat low notes, splitting tones and a dull high register – too far in and the compensation is all downwards with the lip and blowing angle. Overblown octaves, harmonics of 12ths and double octaves should all nominally ‘line-up’ when tested. The player must then handle smaller adjustments for pitch accuracy and tonal colour. The general tendency of the flute is towards sharpness especially in the upper register and when playing loudly. Pitch will sag when playing soft without great care and good air support from the player.

NB – on all other instruments the tendency is for pitch to sharpen when playing more softly.

Clarinet – Instrument manufacturers intend that a clarinet, when pushed all the way in, should play sharp. Student instruments are frequently supplied with shorter barrels to allow for tuning to fixed pitch instruments (i.e. a piano or keyboard) when played by inexperienced beginners. Therefore, when played by better players and especially once warmed up, the barrel should be ‘pulled’ usually 1.5- 2.5mm. This will bring most pitches into line but some additional ‘distributive’ tuning may be necessary. This is accomplished by pulling out at the middle joint and or bell in more extreme cases. Sometimes a particular mouthpiece will have a tendency to play sharp or flat and by changing this an otherwise ‘difficult’ instrument will come into line. The Vandoren series 13 range was created with the desire to help players ‘bring down’ pitch to A = 440 where necessary. Professional players with well-developed embouchures and settled playing concepts often use longer barrels in order to create the most stable possible pitch platform throughout the full range of the instrument. Key/pad venting height is a factor in the evenness of both pitch and tone colour and must be sensitively examined for optimal playing. The clarinet’s general tendency, unique among the woodwind family as it over blows at the 12^th rather than the octave, is towards flatness, with the exception of the throat tones which are often sharp and thin and the upper register that is often played with too much lip pressure and can tend towards sharpness. Middle Bb2 and upper C3 are particular concerns for many players. The addition of fingers of the right/left hand (sometimes referred to as resonance fingering) is often done to help the tuning of and enrich the sound of throat register A2 and Bb2.

Oboe – Most oboists count on their oboe to be as stable as possible so that their tuning is done with the reed, often choosing the staple length and the overall tied length of the reed blades specifically to match their instrument. The oboe is highly flexible and playing fatigue and the condition of the reed will continually affect pitch. In the correctly assembled position the reed should be pushed completely into the receiver socket. This is the optimal playing position. It is best practice to avoid pulling out the reed to try to adjust pitch downwards as this creates other problems by introducing a ‘bulge’ to the bore where the staple has been pulled back out of the socket. The player handles small adjustments for pitch and tonal consistency with the position of the reed on the lip and air support. The natural tendency of the oboe is toward sharpness especially as tiredness sets in. Reeds tend to drop in pitch as they tire or close up. The upper register, due to the difficulties of production, is often quite sharp and care must be taken. Too heavy a reed will lead to sharpness due to the effort of involved in producing a tone – too soft and the sound will be thin and pitch will drift downwards.

Bassoon – The bassoon is such a long instrument that corrections made by pulling the crook out from the receiver socket, affecting as they do only the shorter wing joint notes, are virtually pointless. The player usually has a choice of crook lengths provided to them with their instrument and most will use a number 2 (crooks are available from a nominal 0 to 3, the higher number being longer and therefore providing a lower pitch level). Distributive pulling at the joints can help in a severe tuning situation (being sharp but needing to play at a lower pitch) but keywork linking across the joints is a limitation as is the undesirable introduction of a gap in the bore. Like the oboe pitch adjustments are often made at the reed and this can be successful for the shorter tube notes, principally E and F, but notes with a longer sounding tube length will not benefit nearly as much from reed adjustment alone. The tendency of the bassoon is towards sharpness, especially in the low register. This is an acoustic choice for if the instrument were absolutely to pitch in ideal conditions it would be impossible to bring up the pitch of the long tube low notes when cold. Players become used to keeping pitch down by playing with a relaxed embouchure, internal tongue position in the oral cavity and solid air support.

Saxophone – The saxophone has very flexible mouthpiece positioning on the crook and the resulting pitch is highly dependent upon good embouchure and air control from the player. There are known acoustical compromises in the tuning of the sax but as the general tendency is towards sharpness the player must be very careful not to start with the mouthpiece position too far on the crook cork as all notes will then be sharp, especially the high register. One should not pull off too far either (a decision often prompted by an attempt to compensate for a poor embouchure understanding and improper air support), as this will distort the shortest notes disproportionately and throw off the balance of the response throughout especially the low register. Players must work to learn to support well and relax the embouchure as much as possible and when this is well understood the instrument settles into a manageable and predictable pattern. Tuning is highly influenced by mouthpiece selection and high baffle jazz mouthpieces in particular often require great skill from a player to be able play well in tune, as they will tend to tune more sharply.

Valved Brass – If an higher range brass instrument (trumpet or cornet) has been properly manufactured it will play it’s intended ‘ideal’ tuning pattern with little mechanical adjustment beyond a pull of the main tuning slide and secondary pulls for specific notes at the moveable 1^st and 3^rd slides. The player must work within the acoustical limitations of the instrument to compensate with the lips for small idiosyncrasies. The larger the instrument the greater will be some of the known acoustical distortions and for euphonium and tuba especially additional valves, compensating mechanisms and tubing lengths are often added or manipulated to assist in obtaining better tuning in all registers, especially the low register. The french horn, being a very long tubing instrument, is played almost exclusively in the mid to upper range of the available tones and as a result produces quite a stable pitch platform. Never the less it does have some very distinctive tuning requirements. It is fair to say that well made instruments are intended to be able to play in tune with a consistent, minimal distributive pull of the valve tuning slides as long as the player plays with a good embouchure and airstream and is prepared to make further subtle adjustments with the bell hand.

Trombone – Aside from a standard pull of between 1–2cm at the main tuning slide all the rest of the tuning for a well-made trombone is accomplished between the slide positions, the player’s embouchure and solid airstream. Some instruments have their own individual acoustical ‘quirks’; but of all the brass and woodwind instruments the trombone has the greatest ability to be played ‘in tune’ with few mechanical limitations. The trombone relies more than anything on a player’s hearing and relative tuning recognition for correct pitch placement as well as the ability to consistently supply the instrument with the correct air and embouchure balance.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful. 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Clarinet & Saxophone Pads and Repadding CASS Article

Clarinet & Saxophone Pads and Repadding

I was asked the question below about pads last month for my Single Reed Doctor column in the Clarinet & Saxophone Society of Great Britain ( CASS ) magazine and following some time for thought and discussion I have tried to answer in general but, hopefully, still useful terms.

There are so many different pads on the market now. Why do different makers use different pads, and which should I choose if I get my instrument repadded?

My reply follows:

Since for most players a total replacement of pads – a ‘repad’ – is a rare occurrence a logical piece of standard advice would be to replace single or even multiple worn pads with whatever type of pad was previously used. Combining or mixing a variety of pads is not usually recommended. Your repairer should be able to advise you and employ the appropriate pads. However, on the occasion when a complete repad is required one really does have a choice to make.

The construction of musical instrument pads is quite a complicated business involving different layers of materials to provide the desired combination of stability, rigidity, flexibility, air tightness and durability. The quality of the finished pad also can vary greatly with more expensive pads (using better materials) often well worth the additional cost. Pads are usually referred to by the material used on their surface and there are indeed many options available from frequently used ‘skin’ pads traditionally made from fish bladder, to various types and qualities of leather (white, brown, black), cork, and numerous synthetic surface material pads. Virtually all will be found successfully in use depending upon both the quality of the materials used to create the pads and the expertise and familiarity of the installer (repairer) in their fitting. All pad types require experience and practice in their fitting to perform at their best. Do bear in mind that manufacturers choose and supply the type of pads they use in their new instruments for a variety of different reasons including but not limited to: durability, ease of installation, cost, tradition, artistic input, availability, air tightness and appearance.

Let’s consider clarinet and saxophone options separately as they have fundamentally different requirements from their padding.

Clarinets have traditionally been padded in either skin or leather pads. In my experience the performance of good quality pads made from either material, expertly fitted, is very similar and can be highly satisfactory. Leather pads are anecdotally often credited with being more slightly more durable and tending to mellow a tone quality when compared with skin pads. They may also be more forgiving for seating to tone holes. Cork pads are sometimes used for smaller upper joint tone holes but the successful employment of cork depends hugely the experience of the repairer doing the fitting  and on the quality of the cork itself as high quality ‘clean’ cork is increasingly difficult and costly to obtain. Cork is not suitable for lower joint pads so by default a less desirable ‘mix’ of pads ends up being used. New synthetic material pads have the opportunity to be more airtight than any natural product but, also anecdotally, have a tendency to acquire ’tackiness’ on their surfaces, which, while this can be addressed by cleaning when it occurs, can be very annoying.

For saxophones the widely respected quality of Gordon Beeson leather pads has set a standard of comparison for all padding options ever since their introduction in the 1940’s. Older instruments, dating to the 1940’s and earlier, were occasionally padded in white leather with inadequate backing materials and the quality of their performance varied widely. There were some examples of excellent pad performance but also much indifferent or poor performance as well. Skin and cork pads have never been routinely used. For some players synthetic pads may have a genuine role to play for use in smaller left and ‘palm key’ tone holes which attract a great deal of moisture and they are certainly capable of great durability. However they can be problematic for stability when used in pad cups covering larger tone holes and on pads that rely upon spring action to open, specifically the G# and low C# pads, as a result of the propensity for the surfaces of synthetic pads to become ‘tacky’ and stick. For the saxophone player the additional choice of reflectors, plastic or metal, flat or domed, also arises and one may wish to consider these options carefully as there are different sound qualities also attributed to the choice of reflector. Domed metal reflectors tend to brighten a tone and aid projection whereas plastic or ‘flat’ reflectors affect or ‘boost’ the tone far less.

My suggestion would be to hold a conversation with the repairer who will be entrusted with repadding your instrument to learn their opinions and what experience they have with the different pad options and their properties. Where it seems desirable I would advise one stay with what has worked well your instrument in the past. In general avoid any temptation to ‘mix’ pads. If you do wish to try something new and you discover that your repairer is less or even unfamiliar with the type of pad you are considering you should precede with caution – they could find themselves learning how to handle and seat the pads you that have specified with no prior experience and the final result may not be what you imagined. Hopefully the combination of an appropriate pad choice that is suitable for your future needs and expectations as well as the expertise of your repairer will result in an inspirational ‘fresh start’ and long lasting good performance from your instrument.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

A Concept for Blowing - Jazz vs Classical

A Concept for Blowing - Jazz vs Classical Saxophone and More

In the shop environment, and throughout many years of teaching, I have frequently been asked to help players resolve their issues with sound and blowing in order that they may produce the type of tone, and gain the requisite control, for the style of music that they wish to play - or a multitude of styles if they are interested in many. Saxophonists are usually familiar with the dichotomy of Jazz versus Classical playing and often struggle with this. For many other wind and brass players it is matter of producing a personal sound that is appropriate for the style of playing desired.

While I certainly acknowledge that some players quite happily find a 'hybrid' personal approach that bridges the various established styles and may even build their careers from such a position, I believe that  most players are seeking to find how they can manage to separate their approaches and equipment to facilitate and to better define the differences between styles.

I suggest below a couple of concepts that I have developed and players have found helpful.

Since 'Classical' styles of playing are primarily concerned with:

• accuracy of pitch
• control of fine subtleties of tone
• a variety of articulation demands
• focus of the sound
• blend and the ability to balance dynamics

I therefore believe that a player should look for a set-up that allows them to 'blow up to'  a resistance that offers the stability and predictability to meet these criteria. For me this implies the creation of a reliable and manageable 'platform' where if I do 'my bit' to meet the tone generation requirements of the set-up I know that everything I desire to produce is achieveable with as little additional manipulation as possible.

Since 'Jazz' styles of playing are primarily concerned with:

• projection in loud environments
• excitement
• individuality of tone
• flexibility of control
• comfort of sound production

I therefore believe that a player should look for a set-up that allow them to 'blow through' a resistance and in doing so create the desired result. For me this implies a comfort and directness of response without unnecessary additional effort or restriction - where the mouthpiece is free to generate a sound 'propelled', as it were, by the player - while retaining maximum flexibility and ability to influence the tone.

These are concepts not just words

They imply finding the correct balance of resistance from the mouthpiece (and reed where present), the provision of a fundamentally correct and well supported air column, an understanding and application of focus in the oral cavity to the airstream itself, a well considered use of an appropriate embouchure and a choice of equipment that is designed to facilitate the achievement of the desired end result.

• Doing everything 'right' but on the wrong equipment will surely lead to dissatisfaction.
• Doing anything 'wrong', to varying degrees, will likely lead to disappointment with even the very best equipment.

In my opinion it is vital to view the choice of equipment and the player's readiness for physical/musical change as a whole, as ones abilities and requirements are constantly changing.
Furthermore, while there are undoubtedly many good and possibly excellent equipment suggestions to help meet the demands of a particular situation or stage of musical development there is almost never a 'magic mouthpiece' or perfect solution that will last forever.

Perhaps the best we teachers can seek to convey to our students is an understanding of the elements that go into the choice of equipment and their relationship to various playing styles. Players and pupils would do well to understand that what they 'bring to the party' (in terms of their ability to use the equipment and adapt their playing habits to suit the requirements of the desired style) is a very large part of the likely success to be found in any equipment choice - and this should be a continuing focus throughout anyone's playing career.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.


Thomas Dryer-Beers

Recommended First Upgrade Mouthpieces (Clarinet & Saxophone)

Recommended First Upgrade Mouthpieces (Clarinet & Saxophone)

When a player, often but not always a younger child, begins to play their clarinet or saxophone they (and often also their parents) are faced with an almost completely unknown new world. The shiny instrument and lovely case are inspiring and the entire experience quite mysterious and perhaps a bit daunting but, working largely on trust and perhaps with the help of a knowledgeable teacher, the journey begins. 

The very first 'playing' involves trying to make a noise at all by learning to blowing upon the mouthpiece and reed, later the assembled instrument, and hopefully succeeding reasonably. With a soft reed and a bit of good coaching most players will eventually manage this and be inspired to keep going. 

With a reasonable amount of practice progress usually follows and so does the level of expectation of the player - both on herself / himself and of the equipment being used. The point at which it occurs to a player, or even the teacher involved, that the level of equipment might be an obstacle to future progress varies widely - and often the realisation come too late as frustrations may have begun that end with a player giving up dissatisfied with their tone or ability to control their instrument.

At the risk of being overly prescriptive I would like to make a few suggestions aimed at avoiding this fate and in the process encouraging and inspiring players in their musical efforts.

After many years working as teacher, shop sales advisor and drawing on my personal experience as well there are some easy, 'immediate' recommendations that can be made which may dramatically improve ones playing over even the best of the 'student', usually plastic, mouthpieces that are supplied with most clarinets and saxophones. These recommendations are as close as I can come to be guaranteed to be successful. All the below made of ebonite hard rubber unless stated otherwise. My quick comments follow each listed item.

Try the following for Bb clarinet:

• Vandoren B45 - suited to softer and mid-strength reeds, bright and responsive
• Vandoren M30 - mid-strength reeds, dark and mellow sound
• Portnoy BP02 or BP03 - mid-strength reeds, great projection

For Bass clarinet:

• Vandoren B45 - the all around standard of comparison

 For Alto and Tenor Sax (Classical):

•  Selmer S80 C*, C** or D - the standard of comparison
• Vandoren Optimum AL3 or AL5 - mid-strength reeds, dark and mellow sound
• Rousseau New Classic 5 - great control with a lively sound

For Alto or Tenor Sax (Jazz):

• Meyer 5, 6 or 7 - the absolute standard mouthpiece, warmth and projection 
• Otto Link 5 or 6 - darker and rounder
• D'Addario Reserve Jazz - centred sound and warmth with projection

For Alto Sax (Jazz Metal):

• Yanagisawa 6 or 7 - power with control

For Tenor Sax Jazz (Metal):

• Yanagisawa 6 or 7 - power with control
• Otto Link 6, 6* or 7 - a great 'traditional' jazz sound, favoured by players for decades

Soprano (Classical):

• Selmer S80 C*, C** or D - warm sound with great intonation characteristics

Soprano (Jazz Metal):

• Yanagisawa 6 or 7 - power with control

Any of the above, though different in sound quality (and that is the most important bit after all) are never-the-less considered reliable, tried and trusted and frequently recommended mouthpieces that will improve the tuning characteristics and control of almost any sax, from the cheapest and most cheerful to the finest professional models. I strongly feel that getting onto one of the above at the earliest sensible opportunity (Grade 3 is not too early and it is never too late to improve). 

In my opinion the mouthpiece accounts for at least 80% of the perceived sound with the instrument behaving like a megaphone, amplifying and adding resonance to the tone generated by the mouthpiece.

I have often found myself saying to customers and pupils - if you stay with such deservedly popular mouthpiece choices you cannot make a mistake. You might change your mind years later and you might purchase other options as well to suit your changing tastes - that is called progress - but you won't regret the investment in a good mouthpiece. 

Happy playing.


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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

How Long Should a Reed Last? ( Clarinet and Saxophone)

How Long Should a Clarinet or Saxophone Reed Last?

This question is sure to have occurred to all players of single reed instruments at some point in their playing journey. It must seem at times to be our version of  'How long is a piece of string?' and must surely be a real frustration to beginners, parents and non-players who need or wish to answer what might seem like a straight forward question.

The answer is not easy and a thorough explanation involves many variables, some of which we all would probably not wish to contemplate, i.e. cane is a natural product, we expose it to our acidic saliva and encase the reed under a mouthpiece cap or reed holder where bacteria can easily thrive, etc.

However a few observations and generalisations can be made that may be of some help - 

• Beginners tend to be very hard on their reeds, chipping the tips or breaking them during handling. For best results one should consider changing reeds frequently, perhaps every week
• If a reed has been chipped or split then it is best to through it away
• If a reed has become discoloured with mould or dirt it is unlikely to play its best and should be considered for retirement
• The more frequently you play a reed the shorter its 'life span' 
• A longer practise / playing session will shorten the time any reed will play at its peak 
• Rotating reeds (usually between 3 or 4 at a time) will allow them to recover and extend their useful life - as well as allow for more direct performance comparisons 
• Softer reeds 'give up' more quickly than medium strength and stronger reeds
• Reeds cut with thinner tips to be more immediately playable and more responsive will generally not last as long
• Reeds will not last as long in high humidity conditions
• Reeds change in their resistance with the change of the seasons i.e. a reed that played well in Winter may not play the same in Summer
• Reed performance changes with different altitudes and temperatures - anyone who might have toured or travelled extensively may have experienced this
• If you are a better player and your standard is high you will likely be more selective and critical of your reeds meaning that fewer may meet your expectations
• If you consciously improve your reed handling and storage habits, e.g. by using a storage case or reed holder, you will be able to get better performance from your reeds for longer
• If you learn the skills of reed adjustment, i.e. how to adjust your reeds by clipping the tip and also how, by altering the profile with reed rush, sandpaper, reed knife or finishing tool, you can extend the life of your reeds
• If you knowledgeably save your 'best' reeds for concert performance and are content to do at least some of your practice on reeds of slightly lower quality you will tend to be happier overall

SOME INDIVIDUAL REEDS ARE JUST NOT RIGHT FOR YOU OR YOUR EQUIPMENT- this does not mean that they are not likely to serve someone else well or that the manufacturer is awful or that you are a bad player - TRY SOMETHING ELSE

Every now and then we may find an EXCEPTIONAL REED.  It is almost of mystical status as it seems to make us capable of playing everything better: high notes speak more readily and accurately, low notes are pure and responsive, dynamics come easily, our tone is gorgeous and both we and our audience know it - HOWEVER - it also pays to remember that this is not normal and I suggest a quick read of the following:

An excerpt from the Merriam-Webster Dictionary offers this: 


Simple Definition of exceptional

• : not usual : unusual or uncommon
• : unusually good : much better than average
   

We are extremely fortunate to live in an age where commercial reed manufactures have, with the aid of computer technology, much research and mass production quality control, succeeded in making such a wide range of finely graded products that have a remarkable consistency. I often say to pupils and also must remind myself that, however frustrated I might become, I am more likely to have contributed to poor reed performance than the manufacturer, i.e. have I 'overplayed' the reed?, have I taken care in handling?, stabilised the moisture content?, kept my reed clean?, asked too much of it during rehearsals? etc. 

At such times it is worth remembering that we players have the responsibility to do our best with what we have available at any point in time and, of course, we can always change our reed - and we can be grateful that we are not brass players who have only their lips to blame!

Have fun.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

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Reed Squeaks - Why this happens and what to do when it does

Reed Squeaks - Why this happens and what to do when it does

Almost all clarinet and saxophone players have at some point experienced their reed 'squeaking', often it seems in a most embarrassing situation or circumstance. Other reed players will usually offer sympathy - players of different instruments (brass, strings, percussion) just wonder what is going on - as we might well also. Here is my attempt to explain the 'reed squeak' in layman's terms and a few suggestions for what once can do to help.

The squeak of the reed is an uncontrolled harmonic or unintended sounding due to the vibration of the air column being adversely or improperly generated, usually at the mouthpiece / reed end or sometimes within the tube of the instrument.

Checklist:

• If this should happen to you the first place to check is the reed 'seat' on the mouthpiece. One can check this visually using a straight edge ruler or knife, sighting along the flat underside of the reed and looking in the direction of a strong light source. If light 'leaks' or shines through a gap under or around the reed then the cane has warped and must be flattened either by careful scraping using the straight knife blade or rubbing the reed on a sandpaper placed on a flat surface. A reed resurfacer may also be used for this purpose. Once the cane underside appears flat again retest by playing and see if the problem has disappeared. A suction test can be performed to see if the reed will do its job properly again - here is how:

Place the reed on the mouthpiece and tighten the ligature as normal. Lick or wet the palm of the hand. Place the 'back end' of the mouthpiece on your hand and placing your lips around the tip of the mouthpiece aggressively suck backwards removing as much air from inside the mouthpiece as you can. Release the mouthpiece from your lips pulling it out and hopefully the reed will hold in the closed position for 2-3 or more seconds until the vacuum is lost and the reed 'pops' open with a noise. This test takes a bit of practice but once you get the knack it is a very useful indication of a reeds state of readiness to perform.

• Less frequently wear or damage can occur to the facing of the mouthpiece itself and this can be the source of a air leak either between the reed and the 'table' of the facing or on the rails or tip where they come into contact with reed. This type of wear is often difficult to detect but if problems with squeaking or reed response are a regular occurrence then this may well be the explanation. Try some different mouthpieces and / or visit a mouthpiece craftsman with the proper tools to check and measure the mouthpiece.

• It is also possible on both clarinet and saxophone that a hairline or larger leak is affecting the accurate sounding of one or more notes. This can be due to pad seating but is often more subtle sometimes on the clarinet occurring due to an incomplete closure of the finger to the top of a tone hole on the instrument - i.e. the ring positioned to 'high' or the incomplete closure of a pad due to a ring positioned too 'low'. Check especially the left hand 1st and 2nd finger rings and the right hand rings. If your finger(s) bottom out on the tone hole before the ring fully closes the pad a leak will be present. If the pad closes before the ring allows your finger to cover an open hole air can leak out under the finger. Bend the key work in the appropriate direction to overcome the non-alignment. A butter knife or other thin, flat metal plate can be used.

• Common sources of response problems for the saxophone is found in the correspondence connections relating to the left had 2nd finger touch (which must hold down 3 key/pads in total) and also the right hand correspondences to the F# pad. Regulation screws, where present may help to return the correct function of these keys but be prepared to insert a butter knife or other thin, flat metal plate underneath a pad to be able to close a related key arm to overcome the closure problem. If you go too far you may have to reverse the process.

• Poor regulation of the G# key screw can account for poor performance of low C#, B and Bb. I recommend that this be checked each time you play.

• Whenever key work is adjusted there is a chance that the attempted correction will not go well or even be the wrong answer to a problem so having a good repairer available to visit should your best emergency efforts fail is always advisable.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

The Saxophone Intonation Learning Curve

The Saxophone Intonation Learning Curve

When a player begins playing the saxophone it is natural to accept just about any sound and tuning as acceptable. After all there are some many other things to think about and the instrument is designed to blow easily and usually does - as long as we provide it with a reasonable air stream and allow the reed to vibrate.

As one slowly gets better and wishes to demonstrate more control over the tone quality a progression towards the use of stronger reeds begins and this is to be welcomed. As the embouchure and the ability to support the air column both develop there is frequently a perception that, in order to keep a reed from 'closing up', a still stiffer reed and possibly a more open tip mouthpiece must be used. While this might be true in some cases is is certainly questionable for many players.

Why is this important? Because the degree of effort required to produce the basic sound and the related embouchure strength used contribute very directly to the ability to play the saxophone in tune.

When beginning the middle range notes we first encounter are fairly predictable and our standards are lower. We do not know how to play 'up high' and are not often asked to do more than honk out low notes. The overall tuning is often rather flat and the tone unfocused. As progress is made and high notes are attempted they are usually found to be thin in tone and can be unreliable. It follows then that we are suggested to try a stronger reed to aid playing in this upper register. In the normal course of events this change makes the high palm key notes easier to produce and makes the playing of lower notes more challenging. With a bit more practice and progress a sensitivity to a more consistent tone and pitch begins to develop and, following tuning to a concert A (or Bb) as one will usually start out doing, comes the realisation that even in this 'in tune' position upper octave notes will often be quite sharp, lower register notes (low D and below) quite flat, middle D very sharp and, especially when played in close proximity to the middle D, the middle C# will be found to be very flat.

This realisation can be and often is very upsetting to the player and can be the beginning of a great deal of searching for answers to the problem of 'playing out of tune' including changes of equipment and much self doubt. What is missing is a simple realisation that all players and especially teachers should try to keep in mind at all times:

The design of all acoustic wind instruments is a compromise and best performance relies upon the player understanding the compromises made.

 

An octave key is only an aid, it is not a substitute for correct blowing and proper 'voicing' in the aural cavity for the register desired. An embouchure that is ill formed (too tight or too lose) can distort the tuning of any instrument. A poorly supported air column will cause response and tonal problems even with the finest of equipment available. An internal shape in the aural cavity will compromise the response and tuning despite the very best embouchure.

The best tuning position for the mouthpiece on the crook is where (with whatever skills the player has by that stage developed) the greatest portion of the instrument's range can be manipulated into an acceptable 'pattern' of tuning.

 

 Manufacturers try to anticipate what their customers will be able to manage and are of course taking advice on their designs from highly experienced performers. Each firm then decides how to accomplish the goal of creating instruments of character with stable intonation patterns.

The saxophone, with its two and one half octave standard range, relies upon two octave vents that are automatically linked to switch depending upon the fingering used (the exchange happens between upper G# and A). The first note that benefits from an octave key will always have a tendency to be sharp - on saxophones this is middle D and upper A.

NB - If for the player these two notes (middle D and upper A) are not able to be adjusted down ('lipped down') to pitch successfully then this is an indication of a deeper problem with air support and embouchure that must be rectified - this will benefit all notes on the sax. I suggest checking the pitch sounded playing on the mouthpiece alone. This should be no higher than a concert A, better an Ab, for the alto, for tenor concert G, better a Gb, for the soprano concert C and for baritone concert D.

The last notes prior to the engagement of an octave key will be weaker and have a tendency to be flat - on saxophones this is middle C# and upper G#. The upper G# in particular (and sometimes G) will often 'fall' or break downwards in the absence of a well supported air stream. The response and accuracy of all other notes within the range of the interval of the vent's use will vary proportionally with their position within the range of the vent. There will always be a 'stretch' between the octaves of the same fingered pitch.

The longest 'bell' notes will often be flatter not only because the instrument often does not 'warm-up' sufficiently for this end of the sax but they must not be tuned 'sharp' or the overall overtone characteristics of the instrument will be affected. High register palm key notes will often be sharp not only because they are at the mercy of a correct embouchure and air balance but also because that end of the instrument becomes very warm through constant playing and the last thing a player wishes to find is that they should have to 'lip up' a high note when so much effort is being made to achieve the best tone and tuning through relaxing the embouchure throughout the rest of the range.

Understanding and accepting that such compromises in designs are inescapable will hopefully prompt attention being given to achieving the best possible air/embouchure/aural cavity position while playing and lead on to anticipating the now much smaller corrections required to address the remaining subtleties of correct pitching.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

How Do I know What Instrument To Play - FAQ Advice for Beginners Of Any Age

 How Do I know What Instrument To Play

FAQ Advice for Beginners Of Any Age

Are you new to playing a woodwind or brass instrument? Perhaps looking to help a child get started?  Below you will find some of the most frequently asked questions that I have encountered over many years of advising customers - and some answers that I hope may help.

FAQs

How do I know what to play?

Most decisions regarding what instrument to play are made by falling in love with a sound an instrument makes or after taking inspiration from a performer for recording. This is a good enough reason for many choices as the desire to practise and achieve is vital to success on any instrument and if you love the process of working at an instrument so much the better!

There are some practical considerations however:

• Players with large lips may find the flute embouchure (the way you shape your mouth) difficult and would be better off with a reed or brass instrument. 

• It is best to start with an appropriate size instrument for the age as hand size and arm length are vital to holding standard models. For the younger/smaller player ‘child-size’ models for flute, clarinet and alto sax are available. These are often referred to as Kinder models. Bassoon is best left until a player has the height to hold a proper sized instrument though so called ‘short reach’ versions are available where hand size has not caught up with height! 

• It is important that teeth be in place before a child starts a single reed instrument (clarinet or sax) as the mouthpiece position relies on contact with the upper teeth.

• Players of oboe and bassoon need to be extra patient as they have to come to grips with the demand of their finicky double reeds and often beginners need to rely on a good, often specialist teacher for years to keep them playing.

• Clarinet and saxophone are closely related and playing one often leads to playing both with some ease.

• Small children interested in brass instruments are best advised to begin on cornet (rather than the longer trumpet) or specially designed beginners trombones or french horns rather than larger brass like tenor horn, baritone horn, euphonium or tuba. As the playing technique is similar for all valved brass instruments learning on one can lead to any of the others in the future. Teeth should be in place before starting any brass instrument. 

• Players with larger lips or wider teeth structure are often directed towards lower pitched / larger size brass as they grow as these instruments are often more comfortable to play – and sought after in ensembles.

What is a Woodwind or Brass instrument?

• A woodwind instrument is one that is played with the air stream (breath) either directly, like the flute or recorder or indirectly by vibrating a single reed, like the clarinet, saxophone, or double reed, like the oboe or bassoon. Despite the family name not all are made of wood. Flutes and saxophones are made of metal, nickel silver or silver in the case of flute, brass (with few exceptions) for saxophones. Oboes and bassoons are usually made of wood but some good quality student instruments are made with plastic bodies to keep costs down and reduce maintenance.

• All brass instruments are played with a vibration supplied via buzzing of the lips. The may be finished with a lacquer (looking golden yellow) or in silver plate, bright and shiny silver. Underneath the finish they are all made of metal, usually brass.

Are some instruments more difficult to play than others?

Every instrument has a blowing technique to learn. Some with be larger and require control of more air, often referred to as more ‘puff’. Some play with greater resistance to generate the sound, not necessarily harder but a bit more physical. Some take some getting used to as they play so easily that they are easy to overblow. It is fair to say that almost all instruments are possible to play when there is a determination to do so but that good advise, patient guidance and a reliable instrument and mouthpiece are always helpful.

Should I purchase a new or second hand instrument?

• New instruments are one way to guarantee (as much as one can) the excitement off starting off the learning experience with everything going for the player. They will have the latest designs and supporting warranties in place and be able to be recommended by teachers and schools as readily available. They will often have available rental or trial schemes to help bring confidence to the parent looking for a demonstration of desire and practice on the part of younger beginners.

• Good condition second hand instruments, when available, can be a good value as the instrument will have had some depreciation in cost already but the buyer should be aware that the playing condition of instruments do vary greatly and it is best to be sure that an instrument has been service before being offered for sale and a warranty of some length is in place.

• In general buying through auction sites and pawnbrokers is best left to those with experience who can afford to take a risk. Such purchases can lead to disappointment for vulnerable pupils and parents.

Should I consider renting?

• In most cases where a child has had some prior successful experience of music, perhaps on another instrument, e.g. piano or recorder, then a parent can have reasonable confidence that a good result will come from purchase outright. If you are concerned you can ensure a buy-back position or willingness to sell an instrument on your behalf at a later date from a full service shop.

• If there is some question about how successful the learning will be a rental scheme with benefit towards purchase may be desirable. This allows for supply of recommended new instruments with a split of payments and a delay of the decision to purchase until confidence is gained.

• If there is a lack of confidence in the whole project but still a wish to ‘give it a go’ then a straight rental on an instrument will allow player and parent to see if things are working out well. If they are then the return of the rented instrument when you are ready to purchase new or second hand instrument with confidence is possible and if things do not go well, then return of the rented instrument will cancel all arrangements with minimal expenditure.

What makes a shop a ‘specialist’ shop?

The short answer is a business that really knows and cares about the products it sells as opposed to a warehouse operation that sells boxes. In the case of musical instruments this is usually taken to mean a business that offers a wide range of products and attempts to understand them and seeks to offer the best combination of price, performance and long-term value to its customers. In house repair service is a key part of the equation as is a knowledgeable sales team and a willingness to ‘go the extra mile’ when unusual requests are made. We try to meet these criteria on all counts.

At what age can a player begin to play?

           When they are physically ready to handle their chosen instrument and responsible enough to do the practise required.

How much time should a new player be prepared to practise each day / week?

‘Little and Often’ is frequently quoted by teachers. The general advise runs to 15 minutes or so, ideally each day, to ensure good progress. For some instruments this will be physically taxing in the early days but regular practice in smaller quantities is usually better than cramming in lots of playing just before a lesson. As ability grows and the enjoyment with it so will the time spent.

What do I receive with an instrument?

Most instruments are supplied as ‘outfits’ that will include a mouthpiece and case. Clarinets and saxophones will also have a cork grease, ligature and cap supplied; saxes will also have a sling provided. Flutes will have a cleaning rod.

What else will I need to get going?

           Reed instruments will require reeds to be purchased, often individually at first, later in quantity. Cleaning materials are sometimes required or simply better quality care items than provided by manufacturers. Some brass instrument outfits do not come with oils that are very important for maintaining valves right from the very start.

Do I need a teacher¹s help?

Early instruction by an informed and resourceful teacher is often very worthwhile. This can help avoid problems and frustrations and can make the difference between success and failure. It has to be said that some individuals manage without but they are few and often realise much later that many problems or mysteries are explained with simple guidance from someone who ‘has been there before’.

Do some instruments lead on to others?

• Yes. Woodwind players are frequently asked if they can play other woodwinds.

• Recorder players often play the entire family of recorders for interest and ensembles. 

• Flute players add piccolo and other flutes when they are ready. 

• Clarinet players often add saxophone and the rest of the clarinet family to much enjoyment. Sax players play multiple saxophones, all with the same technique, and are often expected to play flute, clarinet and sometimes double reeds. 

• Trumpet players will be asked to play cornet or flugelhorn interchangeably.

• Low brass players will often move between Baritone, Euphonium and Tuba with ease and some also trombone.

Are some makes of instruments better investments than others?

Instruments of quality, from established manufacturers tend to hold their value and have a greater recognition value when sold second hand. They will also tend to last longer in use. Customers are often then able to move directly from good student instruments to higher intermediate or professional models when progress warrants and have a valuable item to part exchange or sell on. Poorly made instruments with little or no name recognition can be a false economy, even when purchased cheaply as they can be difficult to resell and are often costly to maintain.

How long will a student instrument last or serve well in use?

This can depend on how quickly a player progresses and how critical they are in their expectations. Good quality student models will usually serve a player very satisfactorily until at least Grade 5 standard with some continuing on to Grade 6 or 7. Often a supportive teacher will suggest an upgrade of mouthpiece for clarinet, sax or brass players around grade 3 or 4 as this can provide a big benefit in sound and control. Flute players reaching Grade 5 or 6 are often recommended to consider moving up to a flute with a precious metal (silver) headjoint as this will improve their sound quality. Brass players move up to better instruments, often around grade 4 or 5 when they are ready to provide a stronger and more developed air stream and are looking for a more centred sound.

What makes a professional instrument ‘better’?

The quality of materials and amount of time spent in construction as well as some additional features that are often of no interest to beginners. It is fair comment that if someone does not notice the difference between a student instrument and a professional one in a play test then they may not be ready to make a change.

How can I best care for an instrument?

            Clean it regularly and keep it from being knocked about by storing on an instrument specific stand or back in the case. In the case of woodwinds this means removing moisture when packing away, greasing cork joints and for all wooden instruments being aware of extreme temperatures that could cause problem with the wood. For brass instruments oiling the valves and greasing the slides

What is covered by a warranty?

Manufacturers cover all aspects of their own manufacture and materials. Responsible specialist shops will cover additional aspects of performance related to set-up and function.

When can a player expect to begin playing with others in a group?

Almost straight away. This depends upon music reading and listening skills as much as instrumental ability. We encourage playing in ensembles at the earliest opportunity as playing with others is one of the most enjoyable experiences in music.

What music is available to play?

There is a huge range of music from traditional repertoire for recital and concert performance, exam music, duets, trios, jazz and rock materials, music with CD backing for playing along with and of course larger groups such as bands and orchestras.

Instrument Specific Background

 Recorder – This is the traditional school starter instrument for young players. It makes a great introduction to music making for wind players and allows encourages music reading skills and finger technique that transfers to all woodwind instruments.

Flute – Light, fast, brilliant and thrilling as wells as intimate and expressive the flute is often compared to the voice in its quality. The highest voice of the woodwind family the flute has been and remains very popular for players of all ages and in many different contexts.

Clarinet – Cool and moody or hot and jazzy the clarinet is both facile and languorous. It fits in almost anywhere and has a great tradition in learning as an excellent starter for players of any age. A well established solo and orchestral instrument. The discipline learned on the clarinet can transfer well to all other woodwinds.

Saxophone – The wind instrument of the times it seems the saxophone is everywhere on advertising, in rock and jazz and in the media. The sax can be mellow or brash, played hot and fast or cool and bluesy as well as classical. A great all round chameleon that is reputed to be the easiest of the woodwind family to learn.

Double Reeds (Oboe & Bassoon) – Characterful, pungent often rough in tone as well as haunting and humorous the double reeds are individualistic instruments which reward the patient player who likes the idea of being special.

Trumpet & Cornet – Strong and brilliant, able to play in a wide mix of situations as soloist or ensemble member including the Wind Band, Brass Band, Jazz Band and the Orchestra, the trumpet for cornet are the powerful leading voices of any group. Great for the player who wants to be heard and noticed!

Trombone – A real clown of the brass family as it slides around and interrupts the ensemble. It can be played as beautifully or as forcefully as one would wish. The trombone is welcomed in all manner of ensembles and in all styles from classical to jazz and it is a highly versatile and exciting.

French Horn – Elegant and refined the horn is one of the most respected members of the brass family. Players must have a particularly good ear and lip control for accuracy. Primarily a solo or orchestral instrument it never the less has a role in the wind band and even is a regular member of the Woodwind Quintet.

Harmony / Low Brass (Tenor Horn, Baritone Horn, Euphonium & Tuba) – Low brass are a great deal of fun helping as they do to support larger ensembles. As solo instruments the bigger brass like baritone horn, euphonium or tuba are for players who like to be different and are glad to play on their own. These are quite large instruments in their cases and will require a willingness to be carried about but as players of these instruments are often few in numbers they are rare and always welcomed in ensembles!


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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers