Friday 28 August 2015

Instrumental Design - Tuning characteristics and positions.


 
In the specialist shop environment I have frequently been asked to comment on the tuning characteristics of instruments, both recent and older vintage models. This is a summary of the knowledge I have gained, published manufacturer information and advice I have received over many years - much of it reinforced by my personal experience. Thomas

Instrumental Design – Emphasis on tuning characteristics and proper tuning positions.

Modern musical instruments, manufactured by responsible firms, have benefited from enormous investments in research and design consultation with artists. The overall standard of wind instrument manufacture has never been higher and the area of greatest improvement is to be found at the student level. While superior materials and expert craftsmanship contribute to making some older models highly desirable in the eyes of knowledgeable players the advent of computer aided design and assembly has brought about vast improvements in performance and pitch consistency for quality modern instruments across the board.

Tuning

Most markets around the world aim for A = 440 (UK, USA, Australia) or at most A = 442 (Europe). Austria is an exception where A = 444 or 445 is still a preference. Instrument manufacturers design their products to these pitches under ideal conditions of approximately 72 degree Fahrenheit / 22 degrees Celsius, (i.e. room temperature). In practice there remains quite a lot for the player to understand and to learn to utilise to help her or himself to accomplish truly playing in tune.

Comfortable, room temperature conditions are rarely found in performance situations but since these are what are utilised when designing the instruments an instrument must be able to be played both above and below the intended ‘ideal’ pitch in order to accommodate adverse conditions.

Flute – the head cork must be in the correct position – check this with cleaning rod line - it must show up in the middle of the embouchure hole. The headjoint itself is usually pulled out from the fully ‘pushed-in’ position approximately 3-5mm (sometimes more) depending upon blowing style, angle of air stream and embouchure. Too far out and the player is must compensate for flat low notes, splitting tones and a dull high register – too far in and the compensation is all downwards with the lip and blowing angle. Overblown octaves, harmonics of 12ths and double octaves should all nominally ‘line-up’ when tested. The player must then handle smaller adjustments for pitch accuracy and tonal colour. The general tendency of the flute is towards sharpness especially in the upper register and when playing loudly. Pitch will sag when playing soft without great care and good air support from the player.

NB – on all other instruments the tendency is for pitch to sharpen when playing more softly.

Clarinet – Instrument manufacturers intend that a clarinet, when pushed all the way in, should play sharp. Student instruments are usually supplied with shorter barrels to allow for tuning to fixed pitch instruments (i.e. a piano or keyboard) when played by inexperienced beginners. Therefore, when played by better players and especially once warmed up, the barrel should be ‘pulled’ usually 1.5- 2.5mm. This will bring most pitches into line but some additional ‘distributive’ tuning may be necessary. This is accomplished by pulling out at the middle joint and or bell in more extreme cases. Sometimes a particular mouthpiece will have a tendency to play sharp or flat and by changing this an otherwise ‘difficult’ instrument will come into line. The Vandoren series 13 range was created with the desire to help players ‘bring down’ pitch to A = 440 where necessary. Professional players with well-developed embouchures and settled playing concepts often use longer barrels in order to create the most stable possible pitch platform throughout the full range of the instrument. Key/pad venting height is a factor in the evenness of both pitch and tone colour and must be sensitively examined for optimal playing. The clarinet’s general tendency, unique among the woodwind family as it over blows at the 12th rather than the octave, is towards flatness, with the exception of the throat tones which are often sharp and thin and the upper register that is often played with too much lip pressure and can tend towards sharpness. Middle Bb and upper C3 are particular concerns for many players. The addition of fingers of the right hand is often done to help the tuning of and enrich the sound of throat register A and Bb.

Oboe – Most oboists count on their oboe to be as stable as possible so that their tuning is done with the reed, often choosing the staple length and the overall tied length of the reed blades specifically to match their instrument. The oboe is highly flexible and playing fatigue and the condition of the reed will continually affect pitch. In the correctly assembled position the reed should be pushed completely into the receiver socket. This is the optimal playing position. It is best practice to avoid pulling out the reed to try to adjust pitch downwards as this creates other problems by introducing a ‘bulge’ to the bore where the staple has been pulled back out of the socket. The player handles small adjustments for pitch and tonal consistency with the position of the reed on the lip and air support. The natural tendency of the oboe is toward sharpness especially as tiredness sets in. Reeds tend to drop in pitch as they tire or close up. The upper register, due to the difficulties of production, is often quite sharp and care must be taken. Too heavy a reed will lead to sharpness due to the effort of involved in producing a tone – too soft and the sound will be thin and pitch will drift downwards.

Bassoon – The bassoon is such a long instrument that corrections made by pulling the crook out from the receiver socket are virtually pointless. The player usually has a choice of crook lengths provided to them with their instrument and most will use a number 2 (crooks are available from a nominal 0 to 3, the higher number being longer and therefore providing a lower pitch level). Distributive pulling at the joints can help in a severe tuning situation (being sharp but needing to play at a lower pitch) but keywork linking across the joints is a limitation as is the undesirable introduction of a gap in the bore. Like the oboe pitch adjustments are often made at the reed and this can be successful for the shorter tube notes, principally E and F, but notes with a longer sounding tube length will not benefit nearly as much from reed adjustment alone. The tendency of the bassoon is towards sharpness, especially in the low register. This is an acoustic choice for if the instrument were absolutely to pitch in ideal conditions it would be impossible to bring up the pitch of the long tube low notes when cold. Players become used to keeping pitch down by playing with a relaxed embouchure, internal tongue position in the oral cavity and solid air support.

Saxophone – The saxophone has very flexible mouthpiece positioning on the crook and the resulting pitch is highly dependent upon good embouchure and air control from the player. There are known acoustical compromises in the tuning of the sax but as the tendency is towards sharpness the player must be very careful not to start with the mouthpiece position too far on the crook cork as all notes will then be sharp, especially the high register. One should not pull off too far either (a decision often prompted by an attempt to compensate for a poor embouchure understanding and improper air support), as this will distort the shortest notes disproportionately and throw off the balance of the response throughout especially the low register. Players must work to learn to support well and relax the embouchure as much as possible and when this is well understood the instrument settles into a manageable and predictable pattern. Tuning is highly influenced by mouthpiece selection and high baffle jazz mouthpieces in particular often require great skill from a player to be able play well in tune, as they will tend to tune more sharply.

Valved Brass – If an higher range brass instrument (trumpet or cornet) has been properly manufactured it will play it’s intended ‘ideal’ tuning pattern with little mechanical adjustment beyond a pull of the main tuning slide and secondary pulls for specific notes at the 1st and 3rd slides. The player must work within the acoustical limitations of the instrument to compensate with the lips for small idiosyncrasies. The larger the instrument the greater some of the known acoustical distortions and for euphonium and tuba especially additional valves, compensating mechanisms and tubing lengths are often added or manipulated to assist in obtaining better tuning in all registers, especially the low register. The french horn, being a very long tubing instrument, is played almost exclusively in the mid to upper range of the available tones and as a result produces quite a stable pitch platform. Never the less it does have some very distinctive tuning requirements. It is fair to say that well made instruments are intended to be able to play in tune with a consistent, minimal distributive pull of the valve tuning slides as long as the player plays with a good embouchure and airstream.

Trombone – Aside from a standard pull of between 1–2cm at the main tuning slide all the rest of the tuning for a well-made trombone is accomplished between the slide positions, the player’s embouchure and solid airstream. Instruments have their own individual acoustical ‘quirks; but of all the brass and woodwind instruments the trombone has the greatest ability to be played ‘in tune’ with few mechanical limitations. The trombone relies more than anything on a player’s hearing and relative tuning recognition for correct pitch placement as well as the ability to consistently supply the instrument with the correct air and embouchure balance.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Care of Brass instruments Oiling / Greasing


This is my overview of care suggestions for all the brass instrument family. It has been a training guide for non-brass players as well as a 'best practice' suggestion for players and teachers. I hope you will find it useful. Thomas

Care of Brass Instruments: Oiling / Greasing

Regular lubrication of slides, tuning slides and valves is an absolute requirement for brass players who desire the proper functioning of their instruments. Without such regular care the likelihood of problems both short and long term are dramatically increased. However, because it takes a bit of time to do and the consequences of not caring for the instrument are not fully appreciated, it is constantly overlooked.

Tuning slides should be regularly moved and never allowed to set in one position for too long as this will lead to them ‘sticking’. What happens is that the tubing exposed to air begins to degrade / oxidise and the inner stocking of tubing exposed to moisture is collecting food particles, saliva and a coating from condensation on the tubing as well. By lubricating all contact surfaces with slide grease and frequently resetting the tuning/slide positions both problems are reduced. If the slides becomes difficult to move then the accumulated residue can be removed by coating the tubing with valve oil or a degreasing agent, the slide given a thorough rubbing to remove the build up, followed by wiping over and re-lubricating The rubbing can be done with a textured scrubbing sponge such as might be used for cleaning of dishes or a fabric cloth of an open weave. Be careful to not leave scouring marks on the tubing as this contributes to an increase of problems in the future. The inside of the tuning slides can be cleaned using a lighter / thinner cloth threaded through a cleaning rod - a flute rod can be very useful for this. Coat the cloth with valve oil or a degreasing agent and insert and remove repeatedly followed by re-lubricating as necessary. Every now and then (some players choose to do this every 6 months or so) the valves should be removed and the entire inside of the instrument washed out - i.e. 'given a bath' - in warm, NEVER HOT, water and then the above cleaning process undertaken followed by lubrication and reassembly.

Trombone slides are best lubricated with a proprietary slide cream and then sprayed with water afterwards. Remember to lubricate the ‘stockings’ as well – they are located at the very bottom of the inner slide and they receive the greatest contact with the outer slide. A properly lubricated trombone slide should feel practically weightless in use. Any grinding or hesitation in movement at all is undesirable. It is good practice to wipe off the cream occasionally and reapply so that excess does not build up.

Trumpets / Cornets and all standard valve instruments require oiling to their valve almost every time they are played. Waiting till a valve begins to stick is asking for trouble. It is not necessary to fully remove the valve from the casing entirely - simply unscrew the top cap and lift the valve assembly up about half way out of the casing then squirt a few drops of valve oil on the valve surface and spin it around inside the casing while lifting up and down to distribute the oil on all surfaces. Locate the ‘click’ position of the valve guide and gently spin into place. Before the reassembly of the valve top cap put a drop of oil on the screw threads as well (good to do the same to the bottom caps at the same time) and they will function better. This is because valve oil, a petroleum based product, helps to stop the ingress of moisture and acts as a cleaning agent as well as a lubricant. In other words it functions both as a preventative and restorative. Every now and then the inside of the casings will benefit from a thorough cleaning. Use a soft, lint free cloth over a dowel rod to run through the valve casing to remove any build up within. Wipe over the valve surface of the valve itself and re-lubricate.

Once all three valves are returned to their positions a test to see that they are in the correct place is to blow through the leadpipe while ‘twiddling’ all the valves rapidly up and down. At all times it should feel that air is flowing freely through the instrument. If you sense resistance at any point then one or more of the valves is probably out of ‘click’ position, possibly reversed, and you will need to check them all for the correct position.

French horn valves are a little different as they are ‘rotary’ valves and revolve on a bearing. It is best to use proprietary French horn valve, bearing and rotor oil when lubricating the valves and valve mechanisms. Valve oil is usually applied without disturbing the valve in the casing by adding a few drops through the port of a removed tuning slide. Do not over oil or you are sure to hear the ‘gurgling’ of trapped oil in the tubing when blowing. As horn players very frequently remove their tubing for the clearance of built up saliva / water they often have the cleanest and smoothest functioning valves and slides of any of the brass family. Their valves need to move especially easily as they are operated via a string or connection arm and not receive direct pressure from fingers.

If through neglect or abuse valves or slides become very stuck it is best they be seen to by an experienced repairer who may have to soak the instrument in a cleaning agent or use force and or heat to get the troublesome slide/valve to release and then spend have to spend costly time cleaning and returning the instrument to good condition. Obviously this is best avoided.

A final comment – when assembling the mouthpiece simply place gently in the receiver of the leadpipe and give a gentle twist to secure it. NEVER TAP ON THE MOUTHPIECE. There is no need for this and it will likely result in the mouthpiece becoming stuck.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Reed Strength Advice and Reed Blog

The question of what strength of reed to play and whether to change reed brands is well known to players and teachers at all levels. The following guide was originally prepared for Reeds Direct Cambridge (www.reeds-direct.co.uk) and has served as staff training guidance. I have altered it slightly for inclusion in this blog and I hope that it might be found useful. Thomas




Reed Strength Advice and Reed Blog

Starting at the beginning:

Welcome to playing your instrument. We recommend that beginner clarinettists and saxophonists start by using softer reeds, such as strength 1.5 reeds (or strength 1 for some), that are intended to be free blowing for ease of sound production. These reeds work well in the middle to lower registers and are ideal for initial learning. However, as a consequence of such reeds being thin in profile, the tone produced is often thin and “buzzy”, so moving up in strength is advised when players become more experienced.

Softer reeds work best on medium open and open tip mouthpieces – the type usually supplied by manufactures with their student level instruments – where the reed has a fair distance to travel before it closes upon the mouthpiece facing and must therefore be quite flexible. If the reed were stronger the effort required to produce a sound might be uncomfortable for the player when she/he starts. If the mouthpiece tip were closer/narrower the typical starter reeds would feel too soft. We feel that this is the best approach for the first year or two of playing (Exam Board Grade 1-3 approximately), though each player and every situation is different and other approaches can also be successful.

Take a moment to look at the RDC Strength Banding Selection to find recommendations (available from Wood, Wind & Reed, Cambridge). Do not be afraid to experiment with alternatives – this is all part of learning.


Then as one gets better:

As players learn more they will gain experience and confidence, develop their breathing and embouchure control and wish to sound better and to play into their instrument’s upper register. This means that the set-up that once worked well is actually likely to hold them back from making progress. It is time to move up in strength of reed! This is important to recognise as the need to change strengths is often overlooked and can cause such frustration that it can be a major factor in a player giving up their studies.

A step-up strength of reed (strength 2 or 2.5), used on the same starting-level mouthpiece, should help the meet the needs of the player trying for control of the higher register and wishing to improve the overall sound particularly when articulating (tonguing). To test if you are ready for this change try placing your present reed ‘too high’ on the mouthpiece (leaving a visible 1mm or so extending over the tip when viewed from the ‘back’ or 'top') and secure with your ligature as usual. Then try blowing a legato (slurred) passage into the register(s) notes that concern you and see if you notice an improvement in the sound quality and in the way the reed feels to blow. You can also try some tonguing and see how the instrument speaks (though this may be a bit tough on the tip of your tongue – take it easy). If you like the results and can hear an improvement in tone quality then you are ready to change! Reed strengths at this level are usually satisfactory for the next year or so while progress is continuing and commitment grows. (Exam Board Grade 4-5 approximately).

Take a moment to look at the RDC Strength Banding Selection to find recommendations (available from Wood, Wind & Reed, Cambridge). Do not be afraid to experiment with alternatives – this is all part of learning.


Further refinement:

By the time a number of years of learning have passed you should no longer consider yourself a beginner (of course this point could arrive sooner with lots of good practice) but certainly by the equivalent of Grade 5 level of achievement several important changes are likely to be desirable.

Clarinet players will, in many cases, have outgrown their starter mouthpiece and possibly their instrument as well. They are by now ready to be rewarded with a greater depth of sound, a more interesting and personal sound quality and the greater musical reward available from an upgrade to a quality ebonite mouthpiece and wooden clarinet. When changing such fundamental elements the reed match will also need to be examined. Most players will find that a newly selected mouthpiece will now have a medium or medium close tip opening and will perform best with strength 2.5 or 3 reeds. Congratulations – this is where many players correctly stay for a lifetime of playing. (Exam board Grade 5–8+ approximately).

Saxophone players have another level of consideration as they progress upwards as they may well wish to play both classical and jazz styles of music and it is time to discover what a great help and inspiration can be found in an appropriate choice of mouthpiece suited to these different styles. Not surprisingly the reeds that will work best on two such different concept mouthpieces are rarely the same.

Reeds suitable for classical playing (strengths 2.5 or 3 usually) are designed to offer stability, consistency of attack, roundness of tone colour and subtle control of dynamics on the medium close and close tip opening mouthpieces most often preferred. Many jazz players find themselves competing for volume and will choose medium open or quite open tip openings to allow for aggressive blowing, exciting tone colours and flexibility of attack. Reeds suitable for jazz playing (could be anywhere from strength 2, 2.5, 3 or 3.5) need to offer a suitable resistance match to the mouthpiece and provide an attractive sparkle and ‘edge’ for presence in an ensemble or small group setting. Reeds described as ‘Jazz’ will generally offer these characteristics and one must experiment to find just the right match for their choice of mouthpiece.


Take a moment to examine the RDC Strength Banding Selection to discover popular reeds from around the world. You are now ready to make the most of your musicianship and discover the musical pleasure a well-selected reed can provide. For further background on available jazz reeds see the RDC Reed Category Guide. Remember - do not be afraid to experiment – it is part of learning and becoming the best you can be.


Advanced and Professional considerations:

By now you know the type of sound you are looking for and how you wish your instrument to play in the practice studio, in the pit, on the stage and in the concert hall. Hopefully you have a clear understanding of what has worked well in the past and what may still be missing. You may be engaged in the search for ‘the perfect reed’ and perhaps becoming frustrated that what you have been playing seems to have ‘changed’ or is simply no longer good enough. In that case you may wish to explore what some of the ‘boutique options' available from smaller and more custom reed makers. Their businesses are founded on satisfying the needs of the most discerning customers and they pride themselves on  product consistency and the ability to provide what the mass manufactures do not. Make sure that you understand the subtle differences between a reed manufacturer’s ranges of offerings. Many designs have been introduced to offer genuine performance differences even at the same strength. Alternatively you may wish to take more responsibility for adjusting your reeds and sympathetically ‘breaking in’ reeds over time so that you are in greater control of the ‘settling in’ process. You may also wish to review reed options that you may have overlooked in the past, i.e. filed or unfiled profile reeds, thick blank reeds and even synthetic reeds, to find just the right combination for your requirements. (Exam board Grade 8+ and beyond).


Take a moment to see the RDC Strength Banding Selection to find a number of options that might be of interest. Remember - do not be afraid to experiment – it is now a vital part of your music making and your satisfaction as a performing musician. If you are teaching as well it is important that you know what is available so that you can knowledgeably and sympathetically advise your own pupils.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers Consultant to Reeds Direct Cambridge
Compiler of the Reeds Direct Cambridge Reed Strength Comparison Chart
www.reeds-direct.co.uk 

Thursday 27 August 2015

And so it begins! My biographical background and the reason for blogging. Thomas Dryer-Beers

 Hello future readers - wind players all.

My name is Thomas Dryer-Beers. I am a woodwind player, a former working musician, soloist, ensemble performer, lecturer, author, private teacher, peripatetic teacher and ensemble coach. I am a product of the American band system having grown up in the state of Indiana and having begun my musical career playing recorder, violin, trombone in successive years before gravitating to the saxophone which finally 'took' and later adding all the other members of the woodwind family. I earned music degrees in Woodwind Performance at two major music schools in the USA, Indiana University (BMus) and University of North Texas (MMus), but have been living and working in the United Kingdom since the late 1980's. In the UK I carried on my teaching and performing but was introduced to the music industry through work with specialist music shops, most notably as a former Instrument Sales Manager Woodwind & Reed based in Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) and its associated mail order company Reeds Direct Cambridge ( www.reeds-direct.co.uk ) where I still work part time and serve as a consultant.

I have been a teacher and performer since the mid 1970's and have advised retail customers since 1988 till the present day. I have also been the principal consultant to Reeds Direct Cambridge since its beginnings and am responsible for the creation of the RDC Reed Strength Comparison Chart and author of many reed product descriptions. Customers throughout the UK and worldwide have relied upon this chart to help in assessing and selecting appropriate single reeds for their clarinets and saxophones.

Recently I have taken a more limited advisory role with Woodwind and Reed due to a permanent partial hearing loss that began to affect me several years ago. I do benefit from hearing aids that have been a great help for conversation but the technology is simply not advanced enough to allow me to hear clearly enough to advise customers as I once did. This change has been a bit of a shock to say the least but I am coping with it and looking forward to a different future than I previously imagined.

I have begun this web log, which I hope will be of interest to a wide range of woodwind and brass musicians, so that I might be able to share the experiences, insights and observations gathered in my over 40 years of playing and more than 25 years in the music industry. I have also been recently been asked to serve as a regular contributor corresponding as 'The Single Reed Doctor' for the Journal of the Clarinet & Saxophone Society of Great Britain (CASS). Writing contributions in this manner is my way of saying thank you to all the players, teachers, pupils both young and old, and the many customers whom I have met, advised, supported and most importantly from whom I have learned a great deal in the process of assisting them and attempting to answer their questions. I have no agenda except sharing what I consider to be useful thoughts, memories and accumulated knowledge though and products of interest. I will not hesitate to acknowledge individuals who have been significant to my development as a musician, cite where further information or products can be found when such citation is appropriate and direct my blog readers to where instruments, accessories or services may be experienced or purchased.

I wish to thank Daniel Bangham - proprietor, Tim Taylor - general manager, and the staff at Woodwind & Reed for encouraging me in this web blog project. I hope that readers will find the topics and information useful and if so please let others know in order to help disseminate the blog content as widely as possible. Please add your comments as they are welcome.

Thomas Dryer-Beers, August 2015