Cracks In Wooden Instruments - Do They Matter? CASS Article

Cracks In Wooden Instruments - Do They Matter?

The vexed question of cracks in wooden clarinets and oboes arises frequently and can be the cause of much anxiety for players or potential purchasers of instruments. A bit of background may help to bridge a gap in the perception of cracking, its reason for occurrence and its relevance to performance. I wish to state that this blog entry is a sharing of information and a relation of my experience over many years - it is not a scientific treatise and should not be interpreted as such.

The African blackwood Grenadilla, latin name Dalbergia melanoxylon, or mpingo in Swahili, which is chosen for most wooden instruments is among the densest wood available for instrument manufacture. It has been the wood of choice for centuries, prized for its stability, workability and resonance for the purpose. It is still a piece of wood. The wood has a grain and the grain is a natural occurrence.  Blackwood grows very slowly (hence its density) and with a very close grain that helps to resist motion and absorption of moisture. The best wood is quite rare and supplies are diminishing worldwide so manufacturers take great care of their wood stocks and use them very efficiently.

Once the wood is harvested, billets are cut from which the joints, barrels and bells will eventually be manufactured. Since the late 1970's until the present day the billets are subjected to a heat and pressure treatment by the manufacturers to stabilise them and further reduce the likelihood of cracks occurring. For instruments manufactured before this technology came into use oil soaking was employed to the same end.

FYI - This is why oiling is not often recommended for modern instruments as it tends to be ineffectual and is more likely to cause damage to pads than real protection to the wood. For older instruments oiling with almond or linseed oil can be very helpful but the caveat of taking great care not to oil in excess must be observed. Oil will shorten the life of any pad with which it comes into contact. If you do wish to oil an instrument use a dedicated swab, chamois leather if available, and only apply a small quantity of oil at a time. Oil the inside of the instrument, as this is where the oil has a preventative role stopping moisture absorption. If the outside of the instrument has a 'tired' or dry look about it some oil may be applied to 'liven up' the appearance but do exercise caution.

Should the wood grain on the surface of an instrument 'open up', either following use or due to climate changes, it is a sign of the wood releasing tension and if this is sorted out by a skilled repairer, usually by the application of modern 'super glue(s)', the wood will actually be more stable than previously and the repaired 'crack' will be made invisible. If the crack opens up to a greater extent and goes through the wood entirely it may require more extensive attention including the possibility of 'pinning' to stabilise it - this is the more serious insertion of a screw mechanism into the wood which is used to draw together the walls of the crack. Prior to the advent of super glue technology this was the common practice to address cracks. If the crack goes through to the edge of a tone hole sealing with glue may work and should be tried initially but it may be necessary for an experienced repairer to insert a liner, usually made of plastic, and remake the tone hole itself. Once this is done the instrument should perform 'as good as new' and will be even less likely to have a similar problem in the same are in the future.

I have played on clarinets and oboes that have had cracks both sealed and pinned for many years with no loss of performance or my confidence in them. When a crack happens on a new instrument despite the best efforts of the manufacturer, if it still under warranty (typically a 1 year warranty is standard with exceptional manufacturers offering a 2 year warranty against cracking) in most cases the instrument will be received back by the manufacturer to have the crack assessed for either repair or  joint replacement. If an instrument is out of warranty an experienced repairer should be able to offer the same attention and the same likelihood of a successful repair to the instrument.

Players can dramatically reduce the occurrence of cracking by observing some very simple care suggestions:

• Use the swab frequently during practice sessions and performances
• Pull it through slowly to allow for absorption of moisture - do not 'whip it though'
• Blow across opened upper joint tone and trill key holes to dislodge moisture
• Clean the inside of joint recesses to remove accumulated moisture
• Use cork grease regularly as this helps both assembly and to seal joint tenons
• Avoid moisture extremes wherever possible
• Avoid 'stressing' cold instruments with warm air, always bring to room temperature before use
• Never store instruments in cold conditions
• Avoid direct sunlight or any heat source that could damage the wood
• Examine your instrument regularly but without anxiety - just get to know it's natural condition
• If a grain is noticed to be opening up have it seen to straight away and you will likely have no further trouble

In my experience it is extremely rare that a grain 'crack' has not been able to be successfully and cosmetically satisfactorily corrected. I have taken more than a little solace in the knowledge that should a crack happen and been sorted out my (an) instrument is actually better off and more stable than it was previously when the 'crack' was waiting to happen. It is a bit like the adage 'Whatever does not kill you makes you stronger' and but another example for the musician to heed.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
Thomas Dryer-Beers 

Care of Brass instruments Oiling / Greasing

This is my overview of care suggestions for all the brass instrument family. It has been a training guide for non-brass players as well as a 'best practice' suggestion for players and teachers. I hope you will find it useful. Thomas

Care of Brass Instruments: Oiling / Greasing

Regular lubrication of slides, tuning slides and valves is an absolute requirement for brass players who desire the proper functioning of their instruments. Without such regular care the likelihood of problems both short and long term are dramatically increased. However, because it takes a bit of time to do and the consequences of not caring for the instrument are not fully appreciated, it is constantly overlooked.

Tuning slides should be regularly moved and never allowed to set in one position for too long as this will lead to them ‘sticking’. What happens is that the tubing exposed to air begins to degrade / oxidise and the inner stocking of tubing exposed to moisture is collecting food particles, saliva and a coating from condensation on the tubing as well. By lubricating all contact surfaces with slide grease and frequently resetting the tuning/slide positions both problems are reduced. If the slides becomes difficult to move then the accumulated residue can be removed by coating the tubing with valve oil or a degreasing agent, the slide given a thorough rubbing to remove the build up, followed by wiping over and re-lubricating The rubbing can be done with a textured scrubbing sponge such as might be used for cleaning of dishes or a fabric cloth of an open weave. Be careful to not leave scouring marks on the tubing as this contributes to an increase of problems in the future. The inside of the tuning slides can be cleaned using a lighter / thinner cloth threaded through a cleaning rod - a flute rod can be very useful for this. Coat the cloth with valve oil or a degreasing agent and insert and remove repeatedly followed by re-lubricating as necessary. Every now and then (some players choose to do this every 6 months or so) the valves should be removed and the entire inside of the instrument washed out - i.e. 'given a bath' - in warm, NEVER HOT, water and then the above cleaning process undertaken followed by lubrication and reassembly.

Trombone slides are best lubricated with a proprietary slide cream and then sprayed with water afterwards. Remember to lubricate the ‘stockings’ as well – they are located at the very bottom of the inner slide and they receive the greatest contact with the outer slide. A properly lubricated trombone slide should feel practically weightless in use. Any grinding or hesitation in movement at all is undesirable. It is good practice to wipe off the cream occasionally and reapply so that excess does not build up.

Trumpets / Cornets and all standard valve instruments require oiling to their valve almost every time they are played. Waiting till a valve begins to stick is asking for trouble. It is not necessary to fully remove the valve from the casing entirely - simply unscrew the top cap and lift the valve assembly up about half way out of the casing then squirt a few drops of valve oil on the valve surface and spin it around inside the casing while lifting up and down to distribute the oil on all surfaces. Locate the ‘click’ position of the valve guide and gently spin into place. Before the reassembly of the valve top cap put a drop of oil on the screw threads as well (good to do the same to the bottom caps at the same time) and they will function better. This is because valve oil, a petroleum based product, helps to stop the ingress of moisture and acts as a cleaning agent as well as a lubricant. In other words it functions both as a preventative and restorative. Every now and then the inside of the casings will benefit from a thorough cleaning. Use a soft, lint free cloth over a dowel rod to run through the valve casing to remove any build up within. Wipe over the valve surface of the valve itself and re-lubricate.

Once all three valves are returned to their positions a test to see that they are in the correct place is to blow through the leadpipe while ‘twiddling’ all the valves rapidly up and down. At all times it should feel that air is flowing freely through the instrument. If you sense resistance at any point then one or more of the valves is probably out of ‘click’ position, possibly reversed, and you will need to check them all for the correct position.

French horn valves are a little different as they are ‘rotary’ valves and revolve on a bearing. It is best to use proprietary French horn valve, bearing and rotor oil when lubricating the valves and valve mechanisms. Valve oil is usually applied without disturbing the valve in the casing by adding a few drops through the port of a removed tuning slide. Do not over oil or you are sure to hear the ‘gurgling’ of trapped oil in the tubing when blowing. As horn players very frequently remove their tubing for the clearance of built up saliva / water they often have the cleanest and smoothest functioning valves and slides of any of the brass family. Their valves need to move especially easily as they are operated via a string or connection arm and not receive direct pressure from fingers.

If through neglect or abuse valves or slides become very stuck it is best they be seen to by an experienced repairer who may have to soak the instrument in a cleaning agent or use force and or heat to get the troublesome slide/valve to release and then spend have to spend costly time cleaning and returning the instrument to good condition. Obviously this is best avoided.

A final comment – when assembling the mouthpiece simply place gently in the receiver of the leadpipe and give a gentle twist to secure it. NEVER TAP ON THE MOUTHPIECE. There is no need for this and it will likely result in the mouthpiece becoming stuck.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers