Cracks In Wooden Instruments - Do They Matter? CASS Article

Cracks In Wooden Instruments - Do They Matter?

The vexed question of cracks in wooden clarinets and oboes arises frequently and can be the cause of much anxiety for players or potential purchasers of instruments. A bit of background may help to bridge a gap in the perception of cracking, its reason for occurrence and its relevance to performance. I wish to state that this blog entry is a sharing of information and a relation of my experience over many years - it is not a scientific treatise and should not be interpreted as such.

The African blackwood Grenadilla, latin name Dalbergia melanoxylon, or mpingo in Swahili, which is chosen for most wooden instruments is among the densest wood available for instrument manufacture. It has been the wood of choice for centuries, prized for its stability, workability and resonance for the purpose. It is still a piece of wood. The wood has a grain and the grain is a natural occurrence.  Blackwood grows very slowly (hence its density) and with a very close grain that helps to resist motion and absorption of moisture. The best wood is quite rare and supplies are diminishing worldwide so manufacturers take great care of their wood stocks and use them very efficiently.

Once the wood is harvested, billets are cut from which the joints, barrels and bells will eventually be manufactured. Since the late 1970's until the present day the billets are subjected to a heat and pressure treatment by the manufacturers to stabilise them and further reduce the likelihood of cracks occurring. For instruments manufactured before this technology came into use oil soaking was employed to the same end.

FYI - This is why oiling is not often recommended for modern instruments as it tends to be ineffectual and is more likely to cause damage to pads than real protection to the wood. For older instruments oiling with almond or linseed oil can be very helpful but the caveat of taking great care not to oil in excess must be observed. Oil will shorten the life of any pad with which it comes into contact. If you do wish to oil an instrument use a dedicated swab, chamois leather if available, and only apply a small quantity of oil at a time. Oil the inside of the instrument, as this is where the oil has a preventative role stopping moisture absorption. If the outside of the instrument has a 'tired' or dry look about it some oil may be applied to 'liven up' the appearance but do exercise caution.

Should the wood grain on the surface of an instrument 'open up', either following use or due to climate changes, it is a sign of the wood releasing tension and if this is sorted out by a skilled repairer, usually by the application of modern 'super glue(s)', the wood will actually be more stable than previously and the repaired 'crack' will be made invisible. If the crack opens up to a greater extent and goes through the wood entirely it may require more extensive attention including the possibility of 'pinning' to stabilise it - this is the more serious insertion of a screw mechanism into the wood which is used to draw together the walls of the crack. Prior to the advent of super glue technology this was the common practice to address cracks. If the crack goes through to the edge of a tone hole sealing with glue may work and should be tried initially but it may be necessary for an experienced repairer to insert a liner, usually made of plastic, and remake the tone hole itself. Once this is done the instrument should perform 'as good as new' and will be even less likely to have a similar problem in the same are in the future.

I have played on clarinets and oboes that have had cracks both sealed and pinned for many years with no loss of performance or my confidence in them. When a crack happens on a new instrument despite the best efforts of the manufacturer, if it still under warranty (typically a 1 year warranty is standard with exceptional manufacturers offering a 2 year warranty against cracking) in most cases the instrument will be received back by the manufacturer to have the crack assessed for either repair or  joint replacement. If an instrument is out of warranty an experienced repairer should be able to offer the same attention and the same likelihood of a successful repair to the instrument.

Players can dramatically reduce the occurrence of cracking by observing some very simple care suggestions:

• Use the swab frequently during practice sessions and performances
• Pull it through slowly to allow for absorption of moisture - do not 'whip it though'
• Blow across opened upper joint tone and trill key holes to dislodge moisture
• Clean the inside of joint recesses to remove accumulated moisture
• Use cork grease regularly as this helps both assembly and to seal joint tenons
• Avoid moisture extremes wherever possible
• Avoid 'stressing' cold instruments with warm air, always bring to room temperature before use
• Never store instruments in cold conditions
• Avoid direct sunlight or any heat source that could damage the wood
• Examine your instrument regularly but without anxiety - just get to know it's natural condition
• If a grain is noticed to be opening up have it seen to straight away and you will likely have no further trouble

In my experience it is extremely rare that a grain 'crack' has not been able to be successfully and cosmetically satisfactorily corrected. I have taken more than a little solace in the knowledge that should a crack happen and been sorted out my (an) instrument is actually better off and more stable than it was previously when the 'crack' was waiting to happen. It is a bit like the adage 'Whatever does not kill you makes you stronger' and but another example for the musician to heed.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
Thomas Dryer-Beers 

How Long Should a Reed Last? ( Clarinet and Saxophone)

How Long Should a Clarinet or Saxophone Reed Last?

This question is sure to have occurred to all players of single reed instruments at some point in their playing journey. It must seem at times to be our version of  'How long is a piece of string?' and must surely be a real frustration to beginners, parents and non-players who need or wish to answer what might seem like a straight forward question.

The answer is not easy and a thorough explanation involves many variables, some of which we all would probably not wish to contemplate, i.e. cane is a natural product, we expose it to our acidic saliva and encase the reed under a mouthpiece cap or reed holder where bacteria can easily thrive, etc.

However a few observations and generalisations can be made that may be of some help - 

• Beginners tend to be very hard on their reeds, chipping the tips or breaking them during handling. For best results one should consider changing reeds frequently, perhaps every week
• If a reed has been chipped or split then it is best to through it away
• If a reed has become discoloured with mould or dirt it is unlikely to play its best and should be considered for retirement
• The more frequently you play a reed the shorter its 'life span' 
• A longer practise / playing session will shorten the time any reed will play at its peak 
• Rotating reeds (usually between 3 or 4 at a time) will allow them to recover and extend their useful life - as well as allow for more direct performance comparisons 
• Softer reeds 'give up' more quickly than medium strength and stronger reeds
• Reeds cut with thinner tips to be more immediately playable and more responsive will generally not last as long
• Reeds will not last as long in high humidity conditions
• Reeds change in their resistance with the change of the seasons i.e. a reed that played well in Winter may not play the same in Summer
• Reed performance changes with different altitudes and temperatures - anyone who might have toured or travelled extensively may have experienced this
• If you are a better player and your standard is high you will likely be more selective and critical of your reeds meaning that fewer may meet your expectations
• If you consciously improve your reed handling and storage habits, e.g. by using a storage case or reed holder, you will be able to get better performance from your reeds for longer
• If you learn the skills of reed adjustment, i.e. how to adjust your reeds by clipping the tip and also how, by altering the profile with reed rush, sandpaper, reed knife or finishing tool, you can extend the life of your reeds
• If you knowledgeably save your 'best' reeds for concert performance and are content to do at least some of your practice on reeds of slightly lower quality you will tend to be happier overall

SOME INDIVIDUAL REEDS ARE JUST NOT RIGHT FOR YOU OR YOUR EQUIPMENT- this does not mean that they are not likely to serve someone else well or that the manufacturer is awful or that you are a bad player - TRY SOMETHING ELSE

Every now and then we may find an EXCEPTIONAL REED.  It is almost of mystical status as it seems to make us capable of playing everything better: high notes speak more readily and accurately, low notes are pure and responsive, dynamics come easily, our tone is gorgeous and both we and our audience know it - HOWEVER - it also pays to remember that this is not normal and I suggest a quick read of the following:

An excerpt from the Merriam-Webster Dictionary offers this: 


Simple Definition of exceptional

• : not usual : unusual or uncommon
• : unusually good : much better than average
   

We are extremely fortunate to live in an age where commercial reed manufactures have, with the aid of computer technology, much research and mass production quality control, succeeded in making such a wide range of finely graded products that have a remarkable consistency. I often say to pupils and also must remind myself that, however frustrated I might become, I am more likely to have contributed to poor reed performance than the manufacturer, i.e. have I 'overplayed' the reed?, have I taken care in handling?, stabilised the moisture content?, kept my reed clean?, asked too much of it during rehearsals? etc. 

At such times it is worth remembering that we players have the responsibility to do our best with what we have available at any point in time and, of course, we can always change our reed - and we can be grateful that we are not brass players who have only their lips to blame!

Have fun.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

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Dry Weather / Wet Weather Single Reed Performance

The effects of Humidity, Altitude and Seasons Upon Reed Performance

It is in the experience of many players, certainly including my own, that on occasion an excellent reed which I/they enjoyed playing on a day or two previously suddenly seems to no longer work well - for reasons unexplained by any obvious damage or misalignment on the mouthpiece. On such occasions I look to the skies, not in exasperation but to see what the weather is doing - here is why:

Cane reeds are intended to vibrate and play their best in a controlled moisture environment. This is why soaking your reed prior to playing is so important and why many players develop a specific routine to ensure that they obtain the best results.

Assuming the reed has already been well wetted if the climate conditions indoors or out are very dry the moisture (both within the reed and on its surface creating the vacuum seal with the mouthpiece) is likely to be reduced within a very short period of time - possibly even seconds - and this change can effect reed performance dramatically. A reed will often feel much harder to play and perhaps begin to squeak as a result of a warp developing on the underside of the reed.

Conversely a reed that becomes overly wet, due perhaps to very humid conditions indoors or out, will be likely to 'give out' quite quickly becoming too easy to blow and sounding thin and buzzy. It is likely to lose its resilience and effectively 'collapse' into the mouthpiece facing in a very short period of time. High note control and tone quality are both likely to be affected .

Such changes in weather conditions can account for why a reed selected as good or promising one day may feel 'rubbish' the next and why a reed dismissed as poor at one sitting should perhaps be reviewed again when the weather changes.

Altitude can be a factor as well as the conditions at higher altitudes, all other things being equal, will tend towards low humidity and near sea level conditions are usually more humid. Such factors matter a great deal to touring musicians who learn how to plan for these changes and adjust their equipment accordingly but the experience of such changes in reed performance can arise for anyone at any time. Even seasonal changes from the warmer and more humid months of Spring and Summer to the colder temperatures and drier conditions of Autumn and Winter can have some effect.

Bearing all this in mind can seem tricky but may be some consolation and assistance should you experience an unexplained reed crisis. Armed with this knowledge you have be able to increase the number of 'good' reeds you obtain from any box!

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Owning and Caring for a Wooden Clarinet

Owning and Caring for a Wooden Clarinet

 This is a subject of interest to all clarinet players at some point in their musical progress and of vital understanding for teachers or those in a position of influence and guidance for younger players. I hope the following thoughts and suggestions will be found helpful.

Why purchase a wooden bodied instrument in the first place?

The short answer is that it should sound better and almost without exception be more rewarding to play than even the best of the plastic bodied models. However, to understand the reason for the recommendation (and the expense) of upgrading to a wooden instrument a few other points might be useful to bear in mind:

• Grenadilla (African Blackwood), the wood from which most instruments are made, grows very slowly and is in short supply, and the highest quality wood, with the greatest density of grain, is rarer still.
• The billets of wood (the rectangular blocks of wood cut to size from the tree trunk and limbs) are stored and dried for years and specially treated before being turned into instruments.
• While computer aided manufacture is now common for boring the billets, the cutting of tone holes and the making of keywork, much handwork for the fitting of keys, padding and finishing remains. The workers undertaking this work are specialists who have been highly trained for years.
• Most metal parts are silver plated to a high standard of finish and the turned wood is stained and polished.
• Even the least expensive model ranges carry these costs but corners are cut to help to hold down prices at the intermediate and upgrade levels. More expensive and professional quality top end instruments receive additional finishing by hand to balance resonance and playing response as well as careful final fine-tuning. Such instruments are quality control tested by experts prior to release for sale.
• Cases, accessories and mouthpieces supplied add to the overall cost.

Care tips and suggestions

Once you have invested in your lovely instrument you will hopefully wish to take good care of it. Developing a few good habits and taking on board a couple of tips will pay large dividends in long term performance and service.

• Handle the clarinet carefully during both assembly and disassembly. Apply cork grease whenever needed and when handling hold the instrument in such a way as to avoid damaging or bending the keywork.
• Warm up the instrument before playing by holding in your hands or placing under your arm for a time and never blow warm/hot air down the tube as this will risk stressing the wood.
• After playing use a swab to dry out the instrument including the recesses of the barrel and joints - moisture often accumulates here as well. Do this frequently during a practice session and draw the swab through slowly even allowing it to come to a stop for several seconds in the top joint to allow it to absorb the moisture within and not just 'spread it around'. There are many brands of swab available and using any are better than doing nothing but my favourite, for many reasons including the fact that I designed it, is the Dryer Swab available from Woodwind & Reed and Reeds Direct Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk/clarinet.../the-dryer-pull-through-bbaeb-clarinet.asp ) Follow the link to read about this product. It is pictured here: 

 

• If your wooden instrument is brand new you should consider being kind to it and playing it for short periods of time - say 30 minutes maximum at a session - then giving an hour or so to recover before playing again. Following this routine for a settling-in period of a month or so can avoid many future problems.
• If, despite your best efforts, a joint becomes stiff to assemble or remove then you may be experiencing a swelling of the wood due to moisture. A skilled repairer will be able to sort this problem out but if, in the meantime, you need to remove the offending joint then here is a tip: Hold the stuck parts firmly one in each hand and exert a rocking pressure in each of the four points of the compass to try to 'break' the tension of the wood-to-wood contact that has developed. Patiently repeat as necessary. You may have to leave the stuck portions for a period of time or even overnight to allow for drying out and then repeat the process. This almost always works but is of course best to avoid through regular use of your swab.
• It is not generally necessary to use bore oil on modern era instruments (post approx 1980), as their wood has usually been pressure treated. However, for older instruments or wherever the wood has begun to look 'dry' a light oiling with almond oil or a proprietary bore oil can be helpful. Do not apply in excess as the oil can run and will eat away at pads and attract lint.
• It is very good advice to have your clarinet checked over by a skilled repairer once a year as any instrument can suffer adjustment or regulation problems from the atmosphere, handling, compression and moisture whether used infrequently, regularly or heavily. 

Having said all the above it remains to add that playing and taking care of your wooden clarinet should be a great joy as well as a responsibility. The tips above should help you to increase the pleasure you experience from playing and reduce both the cost and frustration related to maintenance.


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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers