This is my overview of care suggestions for all the brass instrument family. It has been a training guide for non-brass players as well as a 'best practice' suggestion for players and teachers. I hope you will find it useful. Thomas
Care of Brass Instruments: Oiling / Greasing
Regular
lubrication of slides, tuning slides and valves is an absolute requirement for
brass players who desire the proper functioning of their instruments.
Without such regular care the likelihood of problems both short and
long term are dramatically increased. However, because it takes a
bit of time to do and the consequences of not caring for the instrument are not
fully appreciated, it is constantly overlooked.
Tuning
slides should be regularly moved and never allowed to set in one position for
too long as this will lead to them ‘sticking’. What happens is that the tubing
exposed to air begins to degrade / oxidise and the inner stocking of tubing
exposed to moisture is collecting food particles, saliva and a coating from
condensation on the tubing as well. By lubricating all contact surfaces with
slide grease and frequently resetting the tuning/slide positions both problems
are reduced. If the slides becomes difficult to move then the accumulated
residue can be removed by coating the tubing with valve oil or a degreasing
agent, the slide given a thorough rubbing to remove the build up, followed by
wiping over and re-lubricating The rubbing can be done with a textured
scrubbing sponge such as might be used for cleaning of dishes or a fabric cloth
of an open weave. Be careful to not leave scouring marks on the tubing as this
contributes to an increase of problems in the future. The inside of the tuning
slides can be cleaned using a lighter / thinner cloth threaded through a
cleaning rod - a flute rod can be very useful for this. Coat the cloth with
valve oil or a degreasing agent and insert and remove repeatedly followed by
re-lubricating as necessary. Every now and then (some players choose to do this
every 6 months or so) the valves should be removed and the entire inside of the
instrument washed out - i.e. 'given a bath' - in warm, NEVER HOT, water
and then the above cleaning process undertaken followed by lubrication and
reassembly.
Trombone
slides are best lubricated with a proprietary slide cream and then sprayed with
water afterwards. Remember to lubricate the ‘stockings’ as well – they are
located at the very bottom of the inner slide and they receive the greatest
contact with the outer slide. A properly lubricated trombone slide should feel
practically weightless in use. Any grinding or hesitation in movement at all is
undesirable. It is good practice to wipe off the cream occasionally and reapply
so that excess does not build up.
Trumpets
/ Cornets and all standard valve instruments require oiling to their valve
almost every time they are played. Waiting till a valve begins to stick is
asking for trouble. It is not necessary to fully remove the valve from the
casing entirely - simply unscrew the top cap and lift the valve assembly up
about half way out of the casing then squirt a few drops of valve oil on the
valve surface and spin it around inside the casing while lifting up and down to
distribute the oil on all surfaces. Locate the ‘click’ position of the valve
guide and gently spin into place. Before the reassembly of the valve top cap
put a drop of oil on the screw threads as well (good to do the same to the
bottom caps at the same time) and they will function better. This is because
valve oil, a petroleum based product, helps to stop the ingress of moisture and
acts as a cleaning agent as well as a lubricant. In other words it functions
both as a preventative and restorative. Every now and then the inside of
the casings will benefit from a thorough cleaning. Use a soft, lint free cloth
over a dowel rod to run through the valve casing to remove any build up within.
Wipe over the valve surface of the valve itself and re-lubricate.
Once
all three valves are returned to their positions a test to see that they are in
the correct place is to blow through the leadpipe while ‘twiddling’ all the
valves rapidly up and down. At all times it should feel that air is flowing
freely through the instrument. If you sense resistance at any point then one or
more of the valves is probably out of ‘click’ position, possibly reversed,
and you will need to check them all for the correct position.
French
horn valves are a little different as they are ‘rotary’ valves and revolve on a
bearing. It is best to use proprietary French horn valve, bearing and rotor oil
when lubricating the valves and valve mechanisms. Valve oil is usually applied
without disturbing the valve in the casing by adding a few drops through the
port of a removed tuning slide. Do not over oil or you are sure to hear the
‘gurgling’ of trapped oil in the tubing when blowing. As horn players very
frequently remove their tubing for the clearance of built up saliva / water
they often have the cleanest and smoothest functioning valves and slides of any
of the brass family. Their valves need to move especially easily as they are
operated via a string or connection arm and not receive direct pressure from
fingers.
If
through neglect or abuse valves or slides become very stuck it is best they be
seen to by an experienced repairer who may have to soak the instrument in a
cleaning agent or use force and or heat to get the troublesome slide/valve to
release and then spend have to spend costly time cleaning and returning the
instrument to good condition. Obviously this is best avoided.
A
final comment – when assembling the mouthpiece simply place gently in the
receiver of the leadpipe and give a gentle twist to secure it. NEVER TAP ON
THE MOUTHPIECE. There is no need for this and it will likely result in the
mouthpiece becoming stuck.
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Thomas Dryer-Beers
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