A Guide to Current Vandoren Single Reed Products 2016

A Guide to Current Vandoren Single Reed Products 2016

Vandoren make a truly remarkable range of top quality products for the clarinettist and saxophonist. So much so that perhaps a little additional background might be useful when considering which choices might be right for your set-up and style.

For the manufacturer's explanation I recommend a visit to the main Vandoren website where their many products and much additional specification information, artists, news and images may be found.

www.vandoren-en.com

For UK and European ordering of Vandoren reeds I am pleased to be able to recommend visiting:

www.reeds-direct.co.uk for their unrivaled stock and service.

For information and ordering any of the wide range of Vandoren accessories I would like to recommend visiting:

www.vanbleu.com

For my summary and opinions - stay right here!

For each of the reed products the Vandoren website offer their intentions and design details. I find that these are sometimes difficult to decipher and I have developed my own, deliberately short, and hopefully memorable, characteristic tone and performance descriptions. I hope they might help and I encourage all players to try the logical options for them - as I have - and see what these fine reeds can offer.

For clarinet reeds the range now extends to 5 products:

Traditional - Brilliant, with great attack
V12 - Flexible, woody and warm
56 Rue Lepic - Dark, centred and stable
V21 - Response with warmth
and the quality student reed by Vandoren, the Juno - Reliable, easy play

For saxophone reeds the range extends to 8 products:

Traditional - Brilliant, with great attack
Java - Flexible and round
Red Java - Responsive, flexible and bright
V12 - Flexible, woody and warm
V16 - Punchy with edge and projection
ZZ - Flexible, responsive and characterful
V21 - Response with warmth
and the quality student reed Juno, by Vandoren - Reliable, easy play

All the above reed designs are manufactured using the same top quality cane - their different performance is due to the variety of profile used in the cut, the thickness of the tube of the cane used, the thinness of the reed tip, the taper of the blank and the amount of cane left in the heart and spine.

All the above reeds are, of course, available in different strengths, and the effectiveness of the match to the mouthpiece being used and the playing approach of the player are critical factors in the performance and successful use of any reed. An incorrect reed  cut or strength match will compromise the intended performance without any doubt. While it is true to say that a successful match is an individual choice there are some generalizations, based upon likely use and type of mouthpiece match that may help. I am attempting to place these on a spectrum of likely successful use - bearing in mind that narrower tip openings demand stronger strength reeds where as larger tip openings will generally require softer strength reeds - medium tip openings can match most strengths and cuts. The characteristic use (C) - Classical, (J) Jazz is shown at the far left of each line.

Use      Narrow Tip Opening          Medium Tip Opening       Wide Tip Opening 

(C)/(J)       Traditional --------------------------------------------------------------------                     
(C)      V12 --------------------------------------------                                                                 
(C)               V56 ------------------------------------------
(J)                                       Java --------------------------------------------------------- 
(J)                                       Red Java----------------------------------------------------                 
(J)                       V16 ----------------------------------------------------------                             
(J)                                       ZZ -------------------------------------------------------       
(C)            V21 --------------------------------------------------------                             
(C)                                           Juno ----------------------------------------                                     


I hope the short summaries above will prove useful. It certainly helps me to keep all these products clearer in my mind when I am advising pupils or customers.

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The comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
Thomas Dryer-Beers

The Saxophone Intonation Learning Curve

The Saxophone Intonation Learning Curve

When a player begins playing the saxophone it is natural to accept just about any sound and tuning as acceptable. After all there are some many other things to think about and the instrument is designed to blow easily and usually does - as long as we provide it with a reasonable air stream and allow the reed to vibrate.

As one slowly gets better and wishes to demonstrate more control over the tone quality a progression towards the use of stronger reeds begins and this is to be welcomed. As the embouchure and the ability to support the air column both develop there is frequently a perception that, in order to keep a reed from 'closing up', a still stiffer reed and possibly a more open tip mouthpiece must be used. While this might be true in some cases is is certainly questionable for many players.

Why is this important? Because the degree of effort required to produce the basic sound and the related embouchure strength used contribute very directly to the ability to play the saxophone in tune.

When beginning the middle range notes we first encounter are fairly predictable and our standards are lower. We do not know how to play 'up high' and are not often asked to do more than honk out low notes. The overall tuning is often rather flat and the tone unfocused. As progress is made and high notes are attempted they are usually found to be thin in tone and can be unreliable. It follows then that we are suggested to try a stronger reed to aid playing in this upper register. In the normal course of events this change makes the high palm key notes easier to produce and makes the playing of lower notes more challenging. With a bit more practice and progress a sensitivity to a more consistent tone and pitch begins to develop and, following tuning to a concert A (or Bb) as one will usually start out doing, comes the realisation that even in this 'in tune' position upper octave notes will often be quite sharp, lower register notes (low D and below) quite flat, middle D very sharp and, especially when played in close proximity to the middle D, the middle C# will be found to be very flat.

This realisation can be and often is very upsetting to the player and can be the beginning of a great deal of searching for answers to the problem of 'playing out of tune' including changes of equipment and much self doubt. What is missing is a simple realisation that all players and especially teachers should try to keep in mind at all times:

The design of all acoustic wind instruments is a compromise and best performance relies upon the player understanding the compromises made.

 

An octave key is only an aid, it is not a substitute for correct blowing and proper 'voicing' in the aural cavity for the register desired. An embouchure that is ill formed (too tight or too lose) can distort the tuning of any instrument. A poorly supported air column will cause response and tonal problems even with the finest of equipment available. An internal shape in the aural cavity will compromise the response and tuning despite the very best embouchure.

The best tuning position for the mouthpiece on the crook is where (with whatever skills the player has by that stage developed) the greatest portion of the instrument's range can be manipulated into an acceptable 'pattern' of tuning.

 

 Manufacturers try to anticipate what their customers will be able to manage and are of course taking advice on their designs from highly experienced performers. Each firm then decides how to accomplish the goal of creating instruments of character with stable intonation patterns.

The saxophone, with its two and one half octave standard range, relies upon two octave vents that are automatically linked to switch depending upon the fingering used (the exchange happens between upper G# and A). The first note that benefits from an octave key will always have a tendency to be sharp - on saxophones this is middle D and upper A.

NB - If for the player these two notes (middle D and upper A) are not able to be adjusted down ('lipped down') to pitch successfully then this is an indication of a deeper problem with air support and embouchure that must be rectified - this will benefit all notes on the sax. I suggest checking the pitch sounded playing on the mouthpiece alone. This should be no higher than a concert A, better an Ab, for the alto, for tenor concert G, better a Gb, for the soprano concert C and for baritone concert D.

The last notes prior to the engagement of an octave key will be weaker and have a tendency to be flat - on saxophones this is middle C# and upper G#. The upper G# in particular (and sometimes G) will often 'fall' or break downwards in the absence of a well supported air stream. The response and accuracy of all other notes within the range of the interval of the vent's use will vary proportionally with their position within the range of the vent. There will always be a 'stretch' between the octaves of the same fingered pitch.

The longest 'bell' notes will often be flatter not only because the instrument often does not 'warm-up' sufficiently for this end of the sax but they must not be tuned 'sharp' or the overall overtone characteristics of the instrument will be affected. High register palm key notes will often be sharp not only because they are at the mercy of a correct embouchure and air balance but also because that end of the instrument becomes very warm through constant playing and the last thing a player wishes to find is that they should have to 'lip up' a high note when so much effort is being made to achieve the best tone and tuning through relaxing the embouchure throughout the rest of the range.

Understanding and accepting that such compromises in designs are inescapable will hopefully prompt attention being given to achieving the best possible air/embouchure/aural cavity position while playing and lead on to anticipating the now much smaller corrections required to address the remaining subtleties of correct pitching.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Tonal Differences Between Makes of Flutes

Tonal Differences Between Makes of Intermediate 

and Professional Flutes

While there are a myriad of makes and models sharing similar specifications and much confusion regarding their quality of performance it is possible to make some useful observations on the differences, both intentional and anecdotal, between different flutes. These might help interested players to find the type of instrument most likely to suit their playing expectations.

Manufacturers of popular and well respected ‘Step-Up’ or Intermediate levels include:

Altus, Azumi, Pearl, Trevor James and Yamaha

Manufacturers of highly respected ‘Top Range’ or Professional levels include:

Miyazawa, Muramatsu, Sankyo and Yamaha

While there are many additional makes, some of which are excellent, for the purposes of this blog entry I will concentrate on these well respected names.

Of the above makes flutes from Altus, Azumi, Miyazawa, Sankyo and Trevor James all tend to have brighter tone colours and are more immediately responsive. This is due to the concepts underlying the design of the embouchure hole and the cut of the lip plate / chimney as well as the metal composition, the weight and dimensions of the walls of the headjoint and body tube. These flutes will tend to be attractive to and suit well the player who wishes a fine result for little effort.

Flutes from Muramatsu, Pearl and Yamaha tend to have darker or ‘richer’ tone colours and it is often remarked that a player has to ‘work a bit harder’ to draw out the sound. While this might potentially be viewed as an negative observation the result of the willingness of the player to support and direct the airstream with a bit energy is that the tone achieved is likely to have more carrying power and projection with a richer and fuller spectrum of harmonic colours in the sound. The ‘core’ of the sound will be better perceived.

Further:

Azumi and Altus flutes are closely related – Azumi flutes are supplied with an Altus cut headjoint – and perform similarly – the Altus being the entirely ‘Made in Japan’ instrument. Miyazawa instruments are highly responsive, wonderfully engineered and innovative with Brogger system keywork options (making the key action more stable and reliable as well as beautiful) and various body tube metal silver contents from which to choose. Sankyo and Muramatsu have long established reputations and offer features and characteristics quite different from one another. When comparing these two brands one can clearly see that though each flute may have a silver headjoint or a silver body tube and headjoint, the shared specification does most certainly not mean that they will perform the same. At the highest end of flute production it is individual craftsmanship that often sets instruments apart as well as their ability to convey a ‘musical personality’ to the user.

Flutes supplied in yet greater higher silver content specifications than the above (including solid silver keywork and additional precious metals) as well as further possible keywork options are available and the differences will be noticed by experienced players but the perceived benefits tend to diminish and tend to be more difficult to quantify as the costs increase. If one is looking at the purchase of a professional 'tool' for solo or orchestral playing or wishes to simply be rewarded by owning the 'best money can buy' then these finer points are perhaps worth the additional expenditure and will certainly contribute to the enjoyment of any instrument.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

CASS Article - Choosing a Saxophone - Incorporating How to Trial an Instrument

Choosing a Saxophone

 Written for the Clarinet and Saxophone Society Journal of Great Britain

an article by Thomas Dryer-Beers

Choosing a saxophone, either to begin one's studies, to indulge a long nurtured wish to play or to invest at the professional level on 'an instrument for life' has in many ways never been easier. The quality of the various models available is generally high at all price levels - the differences between similarly priced saxophones are not huge and even the variation between starter instruments and top of the range models is relatively small. This means that in many ways it is difficult to make a truly bad investment as long as one is aware of a few important points.

Saxophones seem to be offered from all corners of the world these days. Gone are the times when the only choice seemed to be to buy French or American. Very successful instruments are now also being manufactured in Japan, Germany, the Czech Republic, Italy, the numerous workshops of Taiwan and in recent years China, and one can become overwhelmed indeed! Added to this there is increasing globalisation of parts manufacture, assembly and sourcing of the accessories that come supplied with an instrument.

Improving designs and standards of manufacture in student saxophones and fierce competition in professional pricing have meant that the notion of an intermediate instrument, in anything other than price, is almost completely gone. Many models that were considered to be of professional standard 30-50 years ago would no longer be recommended by teachers as adequate for learning. Many once rather expensive student models have been supplanted by better-designed and less expensive new models.

In order to form an unbiased opinion of the performance of an instrument (indeed even models by the same maker) each saxophone should be evaluated on its own merits, not necessarily by its name or past history. Responsible music shops undertake just such evaluations on a continuing basis in order to be able to offer their customers the best of all the available models. This helps to ensure that as much as possible, your choice of saxophone will be of the correct standard to do the job for which it is being purchased.

Beginner Level Choice

Since so many makes of student instruments have borrowed (even directly copied) features of dominant professional instruments, it is now possible to experience the feel of many top name saxophones in some budget priced models. Some recent models have borrowed keywork design, others body tube proportions, and others attempt to reproduce the weight or mass in the brass alloy used.

So, how can a new player begin to select their sax? A good way to start perhaps, is by conversing with knowledgeable sax playing colleagues, teacher to be, school etc. Then select a recommended specialist shop in which you can have confidence. A definite plus will be a shop with in-house repair technicians as their contribution is vital in ensuring a good experience.

When you visit you should explain your situation and ask to view recommended models within an affordable price range. Having been provided with a selection of instruments to hold, or better yet to play, however inexpertly, players will almost always to be able to identify something that will help them form preferences and eventually lead them to a selection. All the many contributing factors which make up the instrument contribute to a 'feel' and players will often separate themselves broadly into two categories - those who, particularly at the earliest stages, wish to experience playing as easily as possible, and those who are looking for something more than just ease of blowing in the character of sound. I should quickly say that such a comparison test will be most useful if the same mouthpiece and reed are used across all the instruments tried. More on that later.

Any good quality beginner model is likely to see a young player through at least grades five to six. If they are keen to continue to play then their investment in a good student instrument will then have prepared the way for a smooth transition to a professional instrument when the time is right. As a result, I feel that a new player's early preferences for sound and feel can be indulged largely without adverse consequences. What really matters is that the instrument selected be well made and that a suitable, good quality mouthpiece is obtained. It is now possible to invest well at the beginning, upgrade a quality student instrument with a 'professional' mouthpiece and later purchase a 'top-grade' pro model after a few years of experience (perhaps around grade seven to eight level) with neither your learning opportunities or your bank balance suffering inordinately. I feel that this development should be very encouraging to players and might inspire greater confidence in parents with children eager to learn.

What Constitutes Good Value?

Ask a good repairer and they will confirm that even the best pads, properly seated, will not perform well if there is motion in the fit of the keywork or poor regulation. It is worth checking closely how much long key rods (such as those used for the G key, high E and bell B and Bb) are able to 'move about' when pushed sideways. Similarly, check how much lateral travel short keys like side Bb, high F and palm D experience under stress. As the fit of these keys is dependent upon both the quality of materials and good construction standards (contributing to additional expense for the manufacturer) many cheaper instruments will not pass this 'fitness' test. Such an instrument will probably have other manufacturer related problems and will be likely to become unreliable and expensive to maintain in the future. If regulations, particularly those which govern the articulated G# key, the left hand C correspondence and the related closure of the bis Bb key are not correctly set, then the finest instrument will perform little better than the worst. If an instrument is soundly made and well set-up it will be much more likely to play satisfactorily for longer and, when maintenance work is required (as it surely will be in time) the job will go much better.

Professional Level Choice

This brings me to the vexed topic of professional models. How does one choose with confidence? In the broadest terms a musician selects a saxophone at this level as a 'tool of the trade'. Does it do what he/she wants it to do? Will it be respected in musical circles? Does it fit the image of what an instrument should be? All of these points are valid ones but for me the bottom line is much simpler.

Does this instrument inspire you to want to practise and play? If so, then you are surely on to a winner. Remember also - If they all seem so good that you cannot choose between them, then you cannot truly consider any choice a mistake.

Every person's experience is bound to be different. Some find the right saxophone early on and then continue to use it out of preference throughout their lifetime. Others find that their changing tastes, the introduction of new products, a change of circumstance, professional opportunities, etc. will dictate that many different saxes be purchased during the course of a career. As long as you are being well served by your instrument you should feel good!

Before closing it is worth mentioning something regarding the increasing diversity of metals being used for saxophone bodies and the many finishes which now proliferate. In my personal opinion these are largely a diversion from the real essence of an instrument. Each reputable manufacturer attempts to create an identity for their products. Each seeks to create a consistency in the feel, intonation, resistance, appearance and tonal colour to unify their models. In general, such identity is achieved through the acoustic design of instruments, through some specific keywork features and very importantly, via the body tube mass/alloy used. Cosmetic finishes on the standard brass tubing e.g. silver plate, enamel of any colour or lacquer have a proportionally minute effect when compared with the more important structural elements. 

Different metals such as bronze, silver or nickel do make more of a difference, as the instrument will actually resonate with different frequencies given prominence by the vibrating metal. Even this is moderated by the fact that, unlike brass instruments, the tube of the sax is not fully engaged at all times in vibration. Patently it has holes in it and with the dampening effect of lots of leather pads affecting every note differently the overall contribution of these various materials is diminished. If looks are very important to you then by all means select from the range of options available with the knowledge that not much benefit comes from the finishes, and the confidence that not much loss occurs either. I'll always go with what really plays for me.

One of my teachers once gave me some very wise advice whilst encouraging me to consider the benefits I might gain from changing my own well-loved instrument for another. He implored me to 'learn to love the saxophone not a saxophone'. These words have proved themselves invaluable numerous times during my own musical career and never has this advice seemed more appropriate than during the preparation of this article.

How To Trial An Instrument

• Play all instruments with a mouthpiece and reed that you know well. Too many variables make attempting comparisons a nonsense.
• Take along or have in mind some music you are familiar with of the type you wish to play - be prepared.
• If you know the technique of over-blowing octaves and twelfths use this to see whether the instrument is 'in tune with itself'. Alternatively find a reliable 'fixed pitch' source and carefully tune to it. You can get a very poor feeling from an instrument if you do not get the mouthpiece correctly positioned on the crook for proper tuning. Be wary of relying on electronic tuners. All saxophones are acoustic compromises. When you use a tuner you are generally learning more about yourself and how you play than about any individual instrument.
• Test a range of volumes. Instruments reveal more of their tonal colour when blown loudly but you will want to know that you can sustain the sound softly as well.
• Other than checking for finger fluency and comfort, fast notes don't inform you nearly as well as sustained tones. A point worth remembering is that spring tensions or keys can be adjusted if they are too strong or too weak. Never reject an instrument because a spring feels odd.
• Test the response at the high and low extremes of the range but don't expect miracles - especially when tonguing. It takes a while to really get to know a new instrument and you may need to make some adjustments (for the better - this is known as 'progress'!). If you select a sax that plays just like your old instrument you have to wonder whether the purchase was worthwhile.
• Compare alternative fingerings, e.g. the several Bb, C, F# options to see if the instrument has been well set-up. This can be an indication of good preparation by the seller.

It is worth considering that you are most likely to choose a sax that suits your own level of ability (as long as finances permit). Therefore, as every individual is unique, not all players will find themselves choosing the same model. What matters most is that the saxophone selected is one that will provide you with the greatest encouragement and inspiration for your musical future.

The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Review of the New 'Mozart' Basset Clarinet by Daniel Bangham

The New 'Mozart' Basset Clarinet by Daniel Bangham - A Review

I have recently had the opportunity to trial a newly introduced extended A clarinet, with range to low C, known as a Basset Clarinet. This is the type of clarinet for which Mozart composed his Clarinet Concerto. The instrument that I tried is the first production of a new design by clarinet craftsman and instrument designer Daniel Bangham. The clarinet I tried utilised the body of the popular Buffet R13 professional model though I am told the extension, which is also made of high quality African blackwood, could be matched with almost any modern issue clarinet in A. This ‘Mozart’ basset clarinet has the extended lower compass of the pitches of low Eb, D, Db and C that are necessary for the correct - as composed - performance of the Mozart Clarinet Concerto.

Daniel Bangham has researched and improved upon the mechanisms of historical Classical era basset clarinets for the keywork layout and his new concept design allows for far greater security and ease of operation than that found on any previously available commercial instrument. The wooden body and silver plated key work for this extension has been executed by Norfolk based master craftsman Peter Worrell and they are beautiful to behold. However, the real beauty of this instrument is found in the ease of operation and simplicity of function of the keys touches.

The Bangham Basset does not reply on the little finger of either hand learning a new 'routine' in order to operate the mechanism for the extended notes - the keys are operated by the right hand thumb alone - in conjunction with the low E key. Descending a C scale or executing a C major arpeggio are made very easy and logical indeed. This ease is achieved by the low D and C keys independently closing their tone holes. When one wishes to play the less often required low Eb and Db these tones are achieved by engaging their keys with a sliding motion while continuing to engage the primary key - i.e. low D + Eb key for Eb, low C + Db key for Db. Full chromatic motion is made possible with rollers in all directions on the thumb keys. No separate low Eb key is required so the right hand little finger cluster remains unaltered from a standard instrument.

Obviously the weight of the instrument is greater than that of a standard clarinet and the balance is not the same due to the longer length but a beautifully crafted sling mount / thumb rest has been created for the Bangham Basset clarinet which helps to reduce these differences. The new technique required for the right hand thumb is no more demanding than that required to operate the key work on a bassoon and, though it does require an investment of practice time to gain facility the thumb motion should become second nature within a few sessions. The tone of the clarinet remains the same throughout the range and all sounds are clearly produced.

The extension is branded CWM as it originated as a concept and collaboration out of the Cambridge Woodwind Makers project (www.cambridgewoodwindmakers.org) at the Stapleford Granary near Cambridge where both Daniel and Peter run making and repair courses. The instrument is supplied as an outfit in a well padded, slimline gig bag made specifically for the Basset by the British firm Bass Bags. It is played with a standard Bb/A clarinet mouthpiece on the instrument and the first productions are available from Woodwind & Reed to purchase from Dec 2015.

Price £5400 inc VAT (£4500 ex VAT)

Thomas Dryer-Beers, staff member WWR (www.wwr.co.uk)

Woodwind Performer and Teacher

Consultant to Reeds Direct Cambridge (www.reedsdirect.co.uk)

Instrumental Design - Tuning characteristics and positions.

 

In the specialist shop environment I have frequently been asked to comment on the tuning characteristics of instruments, both recent and older vintage models. This is a summary of the knowledge I have gained, published manufacturer information and advice I have received over many years - much of it reinforced by my personal experience. Thomas

Instrumental Design – Emphasis on tuning characteristics and proper tuning positions.

Modern musical instruments, manufactured by responsible firms, have benefited from enormous investments in research and design consultation with artists. The overall standard of wind instrument manufacture has never been higher and the area of greatest improvement is to be found at the student level. While superior materials and expert craftsmanship contribute to making some older models highly desirable in the eyes of knowledgeable players the advent of computer aided design and assembly has brought about vast improvements in performance and pitch consistency for quality modern instruments across the board.

Tuning

Most markets around the world aim for A = 440 (UK, USA, Australia) or at most A = 442 (Europe). Austria is an exception where A = 444 or 445 is still a preference. Instrument manufacturers design their products to these pitches under ideal conditions of approximately 72 degree Fahrenheit / 22 degrees Celsius, (i.e. room temperature). In practice there remains quite a lot for the player to understand and to learn to utilise to help her or himself to accomplish truly playing in tune.

Comfortable, room temperature conditions are rarely found in performance situations but since these are what are utilised when designing the instruments an instrument must be able to be played both above and below the intended ‘ideal’ pitch in order to accommodate adverse conditions.

Flute – the head cork must be in the correct position – check this with cleaning rod line - it must show up in the middle of the embouchure hole. The headjoint itself is usually pulled out from the fully ‘pushed-in’ position approximately 3-5mm (sometimes more) depending upon blowing style, angle of air stream and embouchure. Too far out and the player is must compensate for flat low notes, splitting tones and a dull high register – too far in and the compensation is all downwards with the lip and blowing angle. Overblown octaves, harmonics of 12ths and double octaves should all nominally ‘line-up’ when tested. The player must then handle smaller adjustments for pitch accuracy and tonal colour. The general tendency of the flute is towards sharpness especially in the upper register and when playing loudly. Pitch will sag when playing soft without great care and good air support from the player.

NB – on all other instruments the tendency is for pitch to sharpen when playing more softly.

Clarinet – Instrument manufacturers intend that a clarinet, when pushed all the way in, should play sharp. Student instruments are usually supplied with shorter barrels to allow for tuning to fixed pitch instruments (i.e. a piano or keyboard) when played by inexperienced beginners. Therefore, when played by better players and especially once warmed up, the barrel should be ‘pulled’ usually 1.5- 2.5mm. This will bring most pitches into line but some additional ‘distributive’ tuning may be necessary. This is accomplished by pulling out at the middle joint and or bell in more extreme cases. Sometimes a particular mouthpiece will have a tendency to play sharp or flat and by changing this an otherwise ‘difficult’ instrument will come into line. The Vandoren series 13 range was created with the desire to help players ‘bring down’ pitch to A = 440 where necessary. Professional players with well-developed embouchures and settled playing concepts often use longer barrels in order to create the most stable possible pitch platform throughout the full range of the instrument. Key/pad venting height is a factor in the evenness of both pitch and tone colour and must be sensitively examined for optimal playing. The clarinet’s general tendency, unique among the woodwind family as it over blows at the 12^th rather than the octave, is towards flatness, with the exception of the throat tones which are often sharp and thin and the upper register that is often played with too much lip pressure and can tend towards sharpness. Middle Bb and upper C3 are particular concerns for many players. The addition of fingers of the right hand is often done to help the tuning of and enrich the sound of throat register A and Bb.

Oboe – Most oboists count on their oboe to be as stable as possible so that their tuning is done with the reed, often choosing the staple length and the overall tied length of the reed blades specifically to match their instrument. The oboe is highly flexible and playing fatigue and the condition of the reed will continually affect pitch. In the correctly assembled position the reed should be pushed completely into the receiver socket. This is the optimal playing position. It is best practice to avoid pulling out the reed to try to adjust pitch downwards as this creates other problems by introducing a ‘bulge’ to the bore where the staple has been pulled back out of the socket. The player handles small adjustments for pitch and tonal consistency with the position of the reed on the lip and air support. The natural tendency of the oboe is toward sharpness especially as tiredness sets in. Reeds tend to drop in pitch as they tire or close up. The upper register, due to the difficulties of production, is often quite sharp and care must be taken. Too heavy a reed will lead to sharpness due to the effort of involved in producing a tone – too soft and the sound will be thin and pitch will drift downwards.

Bassoon – The bassoon is such a long instrument that corrections made by pulling the crook out from the receiver socket are virtually pointless. The player usually has a choice of crook lengths provided to them with their instrument and most will use a number 2 (crooks are available from a nominal 0 to 3, the higher number being longer and therefore providing a lower pitch level). Distributive pulling at the joints can help in a severe tuning situation (being sharp but needing to play at a lower pitch) but keywork linking across the joints is a limitation as is the undesirable introduction of a gap in the bore. Like the oboe pitch adjustments are often made at the reed and this can be successful for the shorter tube notes, principally E and F, but notes with a longer sounding tube length will not benefit nearly as much from reed adjustment alone. The tendency of the bassoon is towards sharpness, especially in the low register. This is an acoustic choice for if the instrument were absolutely to pitch in ideal conditions it would be impossible to bring up the pitch of the long tube low notes when cold. Players become used to keeping pitch down by playing with a relaxed embouchure, internal tongue position in the oral cavity and solid air support.

Saxophone – The saxophone has very flexible mouthpiece positioning on the crook and the resulting pitch is highly dependent upon good embouchure and air control from the player. There are known acoustical compromises in the tuning of the sax but as the tendency is towards sharpness the player must be very careful not to start with the mouthpiece position too far on the crook cork as all notes will then be sharp, especially the high register. One should not pull off too far either (a decision often prompted by an attempt to compensate for a poor embouchure understanding and improper air support), as this will distort the shortest notes disproportionately and throw off the balance of the response throughout especially the low register. Players must work to learn to support well and relax the embouchure as much as possible and when this is well understood the instrument settles into a manageable and predictable pattern. Tuning is highly influenced by mouthpiece selection and high baffle jazz mouthpieces in particular often require great skill from a player to be able play well in tune, as they will tend to tune more sharply.

Valved Brass – If an higher range brass instrument (trumpet or cornet) has been properly manufactured it will play it’s intended ‘ideal’ tuning pattern with little mechanical adjustment beyond a pull of the main tuning slide and secondary pulls for specific notes at the 1^st and 3^rd slides. The player must work within the acoustical limitations of the instrument to compensate with the lips for small idiosyncrasies. The larger the instrument the greater some of the known acoustical distortions and for euphonium and tuba especially additional valves, compensating mechanisms and tubing lengths are often added or manipulated to assist in obtaining better tuning in all registers, especially the low register. The french horn, being a very long tubing instrument, is played almost exclusively in the mid to upper range of the available tones and as a result produces quite a stable pitch platform. Never the less it does have some very distinctive tuning requirements. It is fair to say that well made instruments are intended to be able to play in tune with a consistent, minimal distributive pull of the valve tuning slides as long as the player plays with a good embouchure and airstream.

Trombone – Aside from a standard pull of between 1–2cm at the main tuning slide all the rest of the tuning for a well-made trombone is accomplished between the slide positions, the player’s embouchure and solid airstream. Instruments have their own individual acoustical ‘quirks; but of all the brass and woodwind instruments the trombone has the greatest ability to be played ‘in tune’ with few mechanical limitations. The trombone relies more than anything on a player’s hearing and relative tuning recognition for correct pitch placement as well as the ability to consistently supply the instrument with the correct air and embouchure balance.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers