Upper Register Performance Soprano Sax - A Question

A question was posed to me last week and as there are many elements of my reply that might be of interest to others I offer the following on this topic.

Question:

I struggle with getting high notes on my soprano sax. Should I change my reed (strength) ?

Reply:

Changing your reed strength may be helpful but just playing a harder reed (I have to assume this is what you mean) will not necessarily be the answer. The soprano sax should not be more ‘difficult’ than other saxophones but its small size means that it may be more critical. Little things will make big differences. Every aspect of your playing technique is ‘under the microscope’ in ways larger saxes do not require to the same degree. This is why prior experience in alto or tenor sax is usually recommended before adding the soprano to your saxophone armoury.

There are many factors that will affect the response and stability of the saxophone upper register, especially on soprano, so a review of them may be useful:

• The embouchure must still be ‘round and supportive’ but not too tight. Playing a stable concert C on the soprano mouthpiece setup alone is a good target (concert Ab for alto, concert Gb for tenor).
• The correct amount of mouthpiece in the mouth is very important – too much in the mouth and the sound and upper register response will suffer, too little and the tone will be dead and both high and low registers will be compromised.
• The airstream used should feel significantly faster for the soprano and if the high notes are unstable you may need to ‘focus’ the air into a smaller yet still energetic stream in order to provide what the upper range notes require.
• The quantity of air used for different registers will need to be varied – higher, shorter tube notes require less (they are easy to overpower) whereas lower, longer tube notes will require a proportionally greater volume of air to fill the tube and stabilise their response.
• Inside your oral cavity the tongue must have a more exaggerated ‘arch’ position than what you use on the alto, tenor or baritone and this arch is closer to the rear of the mouth. This is a bit like saying the vowel sound ‘Eeeeee’
• Your mouthpiece must be in a good tuning position on the cork. If pulled off too far the low notes will not speak properly and high notes will be very flat in pitch and unresponsive. If the mouthpiece is pushed on too far on you might think all is okay - until you check your tuning – when you are likely to find the high register to be extremely sharp and the instrument very out of tune with itself.
• If your mouthpiece tip opening is moderate or narrow then a medium to medium strong reed (strength 2.5 to 3.5 in most brands) is likely to be required in order to provide stability throughout the instrumental range, right up to high F# or G.
• If your mouthpiece tip opening is on the larger side a somewhat softer reed may provide a better match. Too strong and you will find yourself fighting the low register and having to ‘bite’ too hard to make your basic sound.
• Higher baffle mouthpieces (including many jazz style mouthpieces) will be generally brighter and in fact may facilitate upper register playing but may also demand more relaxation in the embouchure and ‘favouring’ downward for pitch. Moderate or lower baffle mouthpieces are generally more stable for intonation and are likely be more manageable throughout the entire range.

As a guide I would suggest that you are in search of a reed strength that provides enough resistance to meet the demands of your properly focused and well-regulated airstream without excess embouchure pressure required.

Success with higher register notes should follow.

The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful. 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Clarinet Response and The One Handed Scale

Clarinet Response and 'The One Handed Scale'

One of more challenging early stages of clarinet learning is gaining control of the upper clarion register, specifically G3 at the top of the staff through to C3 and the first notes entering the true upper range, C# and D. I certainly remember to this day how these notes at first felt very 'wild' and later I well remember struggling with both consistent and accurate pitching and placement of this range. I wish I knew in my youth what I know now but that was not available to me!

As a teacher I feel that a great opportunity is almost always missed when introducing this register to a younger player. The mistake so often made is introducing the expectation that the upper register plays simply with the addition of the register key to the lower register fingerings. Reliance on the register key alone, while possible with reasonable effort, does not prepare the player (of any age) for the sympathetic placement and shaping that should take place in the aural cavity in order to play and tune this register most reliably. This is best accomplished by understanding that the register key is an aid to sounding these notes but it's performance is not automatic.

In my own regular practice and in my teaching now I use the production of harmonics to make sure that I have correctly shaped my airstream and to play this upper register properly. With a higher, lifted placement of the tongue, and careful application of a sufficiently pressurised airstream, it should be possible to sound the entire clarion register by simply repeating the lower chalumeau register fingerings (low E through open G2) - without using employing the register key.  Admittedly this takes a bit of practice and a some patience of course but it teaches a number of very useful concepts

• 'hearing' and anticipating the feel of upper notes before they are begun
• correct balance between reed strength and embouchure pressure
• increased reliance on air support
• decreased expectancy on lip pressure as a part of the playing of 'high' notes
• stability and predictability of pitch
• increased resonance for all pitches as unnecessary lip pressure is discarded

If regular practice of these 'overtone' harmonics is encouraged early enough many of the problems of producing the upper register tones simply disappear.

Even if a player has long ago succeeded in understanding this register there is almost certain to be a time when, on his/her Bb clarinet, or more likely an A clarinet, there will be an entrance or a sustained quite passage on a note in the range A3 through C3 where 'something' does not feel right or the notes 'crack' downwards or simply not seem to want to behave. When this occurs it is very unnerving and I well remember how helpless I felt when I experienced this phenomenon for the first time. I sought to find answers in the regulation of the instrument, in changing the key heights venting, experimenting with reed strength and mouthpiece changes - all to only limited benefit. Years later I was introduced to learning to play overtones as above and to 'The One Handed Scale' and these approaches improved my playing greatly.

I was introduced to 'The One Handed Scale' by clarinet designer, acoustician and performer Tom Ridenour and I wish to acknowledge him and thank him for the time and interest he displayed in showing me this. The production is simple and I would encourage all clarinet players to give it a try:

Staring with long fingered middle C2, utilising the RH F/C key play the first 5 notes of a C major scale exactly as normal - including use of the register key. When ready to play the 6th note, A3, replace your fingers on the starting fingering for C2 and 'think' and shape higher, as if to 'miss' the note deliberately, and if you are fortunate, you will be able to sound an admittedly false sounding A3 as an harmonic of C2. For the next 2 notes simply finger middle register D2 and Eb2 while continuing to 'think' and 'shape' for the harmonic register. You will have played your C major scale and only have used your right hand! 'The One Handed Scale'.

If you find the A3 difficult to sound you are not alone. Acoustically it is the weakest harmonic note of this range and requires the most shaping from the player. Sometimes it is easier to access it and learn the proper feel to expect by descending from overblown fingered Eb2 (sounding C3) going to fingered D2 (sounding B3) and then working to settle into fingered C2 (sounding A3). Experiment with tongue, air and lip positions to improve the pitching and resonance of these notes. The difference when one returns to 'normal fingerings' is remarkable and can make a huge difference to how you feel about this register. If you have enjoyed this process you can, of course, expand upon the ideas expressed above and apply the principal of overblown harmonics to a number of other scales and passages where this sort of practice might help improve the results of 'normal' playing later. It can be great fun and a useful challenge for anyone. Best wishes.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.


Thomas Dryer-Beers

Double Reed Resistance and Adjustment Tips

Double Reed Performance and Adjustment Tips - What To Do and When

This is a big subject. Knowing what to do to make the most of a double reed becomes important to most players after only a few months of learning. Even with the available guidance of a knowledgeable teacher (and this is not always available) there will certainly come a time when a reed one is reliant upon just 'does not play' as it used to and something must be done in order to get through a performance. There are many textbooks and articles that can help with illustrations and advice though the best contact probably remains a successful player with experience of adjusting and if possible the making of their own reeds. This is a quick reference summary from my experience and advice I have given to pupils over many years -



Best practice starts with care in soaking the reed for about 60 seconds in water up to but not over the level of the thread - every time before you play. Bassoon reeds can be placed entirely in the water. Some players always soak their reeds by placing them in their mouth. I feel that this exposes the cane to an unnecessary degree to sugars and acids from saliva - eventually shortening the playing live. Water is cleaner, warm water is best as this relaxes the reed fibres more quickly. Not wetting at all prior to playing is a sure route to disappointment and shorter reed life.

Once wetted the reed blades may require subtle adjustment to achieve a good-looking aperture.

• If the opening is too great the blades may be pressed together with a light touch of the fingers taking care to not press so hard that the cane splits. If the reed is wired (oboe or bassoon) adjusting at the wire by hand or using a small pair of pliers may be required. For bassoon reeds adjusting at the second  (middle wire) 'opposite' to what initially seems logical will often be what is required as the first wire will act as a fulcrum.
• If the opening is too small the blades may require the opposite correction with a gentle squeeze to increase the aperture on the oboe reed and once again the 'opposite' correction for a bassoon reed.

Test the aperture and the readiness of the reed to play by blowing a 'crow' on the reed - accomplished by playing more of the reed in the mouth than usual and blowing a sustained and forceful air stream with a minimum of lip support. This is a simultaneously high and low rackety noise that is an indication of a reasonable 'balance' to the reed. If after practice you cannot obtain a crow then that reed is likely to need further adjustment to get into a proper balance and a reed knife may be called upon to remove cane. Always use a plaque when working to remove cane from a reed. I prefer a 'bellied' plaque, as these tend to provide the reed blades more support during scraping. Always work slowly and carefully with a wetted reed and test frequently.

• If the upper noise is absent in the crow cane may need to be scraped from the tip area using the knife and a plaque. It is often said that the secret to a good reed is a thin tip.

•  If the lower noise is hesitant or resistant in the crow the tip area may need to be 'integrated' into the heart and back profile of the reed. Check against a strong light source to see the location of darkened areas on the reed. Compare the 'look' of the problem reed to the appearance of a good reed and see what areas might need to be scraped.

• If all looks good but the reed is still resistant then try scraping cane from the rear of the cut away profile at the 'back' of the reed vamp. Do this slowly and keep testing, as you do not want to take away the resilience of the reed and leave it incapable of supporting pitch.

•  If the crow is satisfactory but the pitch has gone flat the usual correction on an oboe reed is to carefully 'clip the tip' removing a fraction of a millimetre of cane. To do this you will need a very sharp straight knife and a cutting block. Test the result after clipping and be prepared to rebalance the reed if necessary to ensure the proper relationship between tip, heart and back of the reed. On a bassoon reed this may also be the appropriate correction before cutting the tip try arching the reed at the second wire to see what effect this has upon pitch. Bear in mind you may have to rebalance at the first wire also to maintain a proper aperture opening.

• If the crow is satisfactory but the pitch has gone sharp the cane may be 'clogging up' and might benefit from a light general scraping overall to remove the build up of skin cells, saliva and dirt that may have come over time. If no response is gained from the approach one can take 'pitch' out of a reed by scraping the tip, the heart region and or the back to give the reed back its flexibility. Try this systematically and in very small stages and test frequently. It is very easy to go too far!

A further note - Playing the oboe and the bassoon should require a strong, well-supported air stream. I should not require a great deal of 'biting' at the lips or cause fatigue in your embouchure within a few minutes of blowing. The most attractive double reed sounds are lyrical, exciting and characteristic over the entire range of the instrument without any sense of hesitation or 'dropping out' due to problems with basic tone production. Strive for this always and try to make sure that, as much as possible, you have your reed on your side!

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
Thomas Dryer-Beers

Reed Squeaks - Why this happens and what to do when it does

Reed Squeaks - Why this happens and what to do when it does

Almost all clarinet and saxophone players have at some point experienced their reed 'squeaking', often it seems in a most embarrassing situation or circumstance. Other reed players will usually offer sympathy - players of different instruments (brass, strings, percussion) just wonder what is going on - as we might well also. Here is my attempt to explain the 'reed squeak' in layman's terms and a few suggestions for what once can do to help.

The squeak of the reed is an uncontrolled harmonic or unintended sounding due to the vibration of the air column being adversely or improperly generated, usually at the mouthpiece / reed end or sometimes within the tube of the instrument.

Checklist:

• If this should happen to you the first place to check is the reed 'seat' on the mouthpiece. One can check this visually using a straight edge ruler or knife, sighting along the flat underside of the reed and looking in the direction of a strong light source. If light 'leaks' or shines through a gap under or around the reed then the cane has warped and must be flattened either by careful scraping using the straight knife blade or rubbing the reed on a sandpaper placed on a flat surface. A reed resurfacer may also be used for this purpose. Once the cane underside appears flat again retest by playing and see if the problem has disappeared. A suction test can be performed to see if the reed will do its job properly again - here is how:

Place the reed on the mouthpiece and tighten the ligature as normal. Lick or wet the palm of the hand. Place the 'back end' of the mouthpiece on your hand and placing your lips around the tip of the mouthpiece aggressively suck backwards removing as much air from inside the mouthpiece as you can. Release the mouthpiece from your lips pulling it out and hopefully the reed will hold in the closed position for 2-3 or more seconds until the vacuum is lost and the reed 'pops' open with a noise. This test takes a bit of practice but once you get the knack it is a very useful indication of a reeds state of readiness to perform.

• Less frequently wear or damage can occur to the facing of the mouthpiece itself and this can be the source of a air leak either between the reed and the 'table' of the facing or on the rails or tip where they come into contact with reed. This type of wear is often difficult to detect but if problems with squeaking or reed response are a regular occurrence then this may well be the explanation. Try some different mouthpieces and / or visit a mouthpiece craftsman with the proper tools to check and measure the mouthpiece.

• It is also possible on both clarinet and saxophone that a hairline or larger leak is affecting the accurate sounding of one or more notes. This can be due to pad seating but is often more subtle sometimes on the clarinet occurring due to an incomplete closure of the finger to the top of a tone hole on the instrument - i.e. the ring positioned to 'high' or the incomplete closure of a pad due to a ring positioned too 'low'. Check especially the left hand 1st and 2nd finger rings and the right hand rings. If your finger(s) bottom out on the tone hole before the ring fully closes the pad a leak will be present. If the pad closes before the ring allows your finger to cover an open hole air can leak out under the finger. Bend the key work in the appropriate direction to overcome the non-alignment. A butter knife or other thin, flat metal plate can be used.

• Common sources of response problems for the saxophone is found in the correspondence connections relating to the left had 2nd finger touch (which must hold down 3 key/pads in total) and also the right hand correspondences to the F# pad. Regulation screws, where present may help to return the correct function of these keys but be prepared to insert a butter knife or other thin, flat metal plate underneath a pad to be able to close a related key arm to overcome the closure problem. If you go too far you may have to reverse the process.

• Poor regulation of the G# key screw can account for poor performance of low C#, B and Bb. I recommend that this be checked each time you play.

• Whenever key work is adjusted there is a chance that the attempted correction will not go well or even be the wrong answer to a problem so having a good repairer available to visit should your best emergency efforts fail is always advisable.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

The Saxophone Intonation Learning Curve

The Saxophone Intonation Learning Curve

When a player begins playing the saxophone it is natural to accept just about any sound and tuning as acceptable. After all there are some many other things to think about and the instrument is designed to blow easily and usually does - as long as we provide it with a reasonable air stream and allow the reed to vibrate.

As one slowly gets better and wishes to demonstrate more control over the tone quality a progression towards the use of stronger reeds begins and this is to be welcomed. As the embouchure and the ability to support the air column both develop there is frequently a perception that, in order to keep a reed from 'closing up', a still stiffer reed and possibly a more open tip mouthpiece must be used. While this might be true in some cases is is certainly questionable for many players.

Why is this important? Because the degree of effort required to produce the basic sound and the related embouchure strength used contribute very directly to the ability to play the saxophone in tune.

When beginning the middle range notes we first encounter are fairly predictable and our standards are lower. We do not know how to play 'up high' and are not often asked to do more than honk out low notes. The overall tuning is often rather flat and the tone unfocused. As progress is made and high notes are attempted they are usually found to be thin in tone and can be unreliable. It follows then that we are suggested to try a stronger reed to aid playing in this upper register. In the normal course of events this change makes the high palm key notes easier to produce and makes the playing of lower notes more challenging. With a bit more practice and progress a sensitivity to a more consistent tone and pitch begins to develop and, following tuning to a concert A (or Bb) as one will usually start out doing, comes the realisation that even in this 'in tune' position upper octave notes will often be quite sharp, lower register notes (low D and below) quite flat, middle D very sharp and, especially when played in close proximity to the middle D, the middle C# will be found to be very flat.

This realisation can be and often is very upsetting to the player and can be the beginning of a great deal of searching for answers to the problem of 'playing out of tune' including changes of equipment and much self doubt. What is missing is a simple realisation that all players and especially teachers should try to keep in mind at all times:

The design of all acoustic wind instruments is a compromise and best performance relies upon the player understanding the compromises made.

 

An octave key is only an aid, it is not a substitute for correct blowing and proper 'voicing' in the aural cavity for the register desired. An embouchure that is ill formed (too tight or too lose) can distort the tuning of any instrument. A poorly supported air column will cause response and tonal problems even with the finest of equipment available. An internal shape in the aural cavity will compromise the response and tuning despite the very best embouchure.

The best tuning position for the mouthpiece on the crook is where (with whatever skills the player has by that stage developed) the greatest portion of the instrument's range can be manipulated into an acceptable 'pattern' of tuning.

 

 Manufacturers try to anticipate what their customers will be able to manage and are of course taking advice on their designs from highly experienced performers. Each firm then decides how to accomplish the goal of creating instruments of character with stable intonation patterns.

The saxophone, with its two and one half octave standard range, relies upon two octave vents that are automatically linked to switch depending upon the fingering used (the exchange happens between upper G# and A). The first note that benefits from an octave key will always have a tendency to be sharp - on saxophones this is middle D and upper A.

NB - If for the player these two notes (middle D and upper A) are not able to be adjusted down ('lipped down') to pitch successfully then this is an indication of a deeper problem with air support and embouchure that must be rectified - this will benefit all notes on the sax. I suggest checking the pitch sounded playing on the mouthpiece alone. This should be no higher than a concert A, better an Ab, for the alto, for tenor concert G, better a Gb, for the soprano concert C and for baritone concert D.

The last notes prior to the engagement of an octave key will be weaker and have a tendency to be flat - on saxophones this is middle C# and upper G#. The upper G# in particular (and sometimes G) will often 'fall' or break downwards in the absence of a well supported air stream. The response and accuracy of all other notes within the range of the interval of the vent's use will vary proportionally with their position within the range of the vent. There will always be a 'stretch' between the octaves of the same fingered pitch.

The longest 'bell' notes will often be flatter not only because the instrument often does not 'warm-up' sufficiently for this end of the sax but they must not be tuned 'sharp' or the overall overtone characteristics of the instrument will be affected. High register palm key notes will often be sharp not only because they are at the mercy of a correct embouchure and air balance but also because that end of the instrument becomes very warm through constant playing and the last thing a player wishes to find is that they should have to 'lip up' a high note when so much effort is being made to achieve the best tone and tuning through relaxing the embouchure throughout the rest of the range.

Understanding and accepting that such compromises in designs are inescapable will hopefully prompt attention being given to achieving the best possible air/embouchure/aural cavity position while playing and lead on to anticipating the now much smaller corrections required to address the remaining subtleties of correct pitching.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
 

Thomas Dryer-Beers