Upper Register Performance Soprano Sax - A Question

A question was posed to me last week and as there are many elements of my reply that might be of interest to others I offer the following on this topic.

Question:

I struggle with getting high notes on my soprano sax. Should I change my reed (strength) ?

Reply:

Changing your reed strength may be helpful but just playing a harder reed (I have to assume this is what you mean) will not necessarily be the answer. The soprano sax should not be more ‘difficult’ than other saxophones but its small size means that it may be more critical. Little things will make big differences. Every aspect of your playing technique is ‘under the microscope’ in ways larger saxes do not require to the same degree. This is why prior experience in alto or tenor sax is usually recommended before adding the soprano to your saxophone armoury.

There are many factors that will affect the response and stability of the saxophone upper register, especially on soprano, so a review of them may be useful:

• The embouchure must still be ‘round and supportive’ but not too tight. Playing a stable concert C on the soprano mouthpiece setup alone is a good target (concert Ab for alto, concert Gb for tenor).
• The correct amount of mouthpiece in the mouth is very important – too much in the mouth and the sound and upper register response will suffer, too little and the tone will be dead and both high and low registers will be compromised.
• The airstream used should feel significantly faster for the soprano and if the high notes are unstable you may need to ‘focus’ the air into a smaller yet still energetic stream in order to provide what the upper range notes require.
• The quantity of air used for different registers will need to be varied – higher, shorter tube notes require less (they are easy to overpower) whereas lower, longer tube notes will require a proportionally greater volume of air to fill the tube and stabilise their response.
• Inside your oral cavity the tongue must have a more exaggerated ‘arch’ position than what you use on the alto, tenor or baritone and this arch is closer to the rear of the mouth. This is a bit like saying the vowel sound ‘Eeeeee’
• Your mouthpiece must be in a good tuning position on the cork. If pulled off too far the low notes will not speak properly and high notes will be very flat in pitch and unresponsive. If the mouthpiece is pushed on too far on you might think all is okay - until you check your tuning – when you are likely to find the high register to be extremely sharp and the instrument very out of tune with itself.
• If your mouthpiece tip opening is moderate or narrow then a medium to medium strong reed (strength 2.5 to 3.5 in most brands) is likely to be required in order to provide stability throughout the instrumental range, right up to high F# or G.
• If your mouthpiece tip opening is on the larger side a somewhat softer reed may provide a better match. Too strong and you will find yourself fighting the low register and having to ‘bite’ too hard to make your basic sound.
• Higher baffle mouthpieces (including many jazz style mouthpieces) will be generally brighter and in fact may facilitate upper register playing but may also demand more relaxation in the embouchure and ‘favouring’ downward for pitch. Moderate or lower baffle mouthpieces are generally more stable for intonation and are likely be more manageable throughout the entire range.

As a guide I would suggest that you are in search of a reed strength that provides enough resistance to meet the demands of your properly focused and well-regulated airstream without excess embouchure pressure required.

Success with higher register notes should follow.

The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful. 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Tips on Switching Between Clarinet and Saxophone

Tips on Switching Between Clarinet and Saxophone

from The Single Reed Doctor Column, CASS Article December 2016

In response to a question posed by a member of the Clarinet and Saxophone Society of Great Britain I the reply below. I hope it might also be of interest and helpful for Wind Player Advice readers.

Question:

I play both clarinet and saxophone but find it difficult to move between the two. The sax feels very open, requiring a lot of air, while the clarinet feels tight and pressured. I have recently started playing in shows and need to improve my quick changes between the two. Is there anything I could do to my set-up that would make this easier?

My 'Single Reed Doctory' reply:

This is a very good and multifaceted question and one that I am afraid does not have a quick or straight forward answer. Some players never seem to need help with this. They just ‘get it’ and manage to double sax and clarinet seemingly without much effort. Most players need to examine this question in greater detail and the process of examination should prove useful for anyone wishing to play their best.

You will find examples of equipment intended to make switching between clarinet and saxophone easier but in my opinion this route does not help in the long run as it can obscure the issue. It is fair to say that moderate tip openings and standard chamber mouthpieces are likely to make for easier control of both instruments possible - therefore you may wish to avoid extremes - however, leaving equipment aside - a thorough understanding of the requirements for good playing on each instrument is the best way to develop your control and to achieve a rewarding, characteristic tone on both clarinet and saxophone(s).

The clarinet has a cylindrical bore and all saxophones have conical bores. This central difference contributes to not only how each instrument overblows but how it responds. The reason the sax feels so ‘open’, something quite disorienting to many clarinettists, is that the amount of air required to fill the tube is highly variable depending upon the length of tube in use and the register. The clarinet bore, to many saxophonists, feels quite ‘stuffy’ and resistant - or pressured as you suggest. This is largely due to the more consistent taper dimension of the bore (varying significantly only at the bell) and the requirement of a uniformly higher pressure throughout the entire range of the instrument regardless of the fingered length of the tube.

In my teaching I have used the concept of the Two Q’s when trying to explain this and perhaps you might find this helpful.

• The Quality of the air pressure must remain the same for both instruments, at all times and at all dynamics.

• The Quantity of the air used varies depending upon the range, register, dynamics and resistance of the instruments. This is much more obvious on the sax than the clarinet. Understanding and applying these concepts can transform a players experience.

The mouthpiece used must allow a player to be comfortable whilst utilising the best air support they can provide without requiring an excess of embouchure pressure. The appropriate resistance to a well supported air column is not just to be found at the embouchure surrounding the mouthpiece and reed but the airstream is also focused and shaped in the oral cavity via the position of the tongue. In my experience the tongue is uniformly arched higher at the back of the oral cavity on the clarinet and the progressively positioned slightly further forward in the cavity as one moves to saxophones and larger clarinets.

Time spent learning how the ‘flick the switch’ and instantly apply the appropriate blowing techniques to each instrument will mean that a player can more quickly and consistently achieve a more satisfying and convincing performance even when switching in a show environment.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful. 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Clarinet Response and The One Handed Scale

Clarinet Response and 'The One Handed Scale'

One of more challenging early stages of clarinet learning is gaining control of the upper clarion register, specifically G3 at the top of the staff through to C3 and the first notes entering the true upper range, C# and D. I certainly remember to this day how these notes at first felt very 'wild' and later I well remember struggling with both consistent and accurate pitching and placement of this range. I wish I knew in my youth what I know now but that was not available to me!

As a teacher I feel that a great opportunity is almost always missed when introducing this register to a younger player. The mistake so often made is introducing the expectation that the upper register plays simply with the addition of the register key to the lower register fingerings. Reliance on the register key alone, while possible with reasonable effort, does not prepare the player (of any age) for the sympathetic placement and shaping that should take place in the aural cavity in order to play and tune this register most reliably. This is best accomplished by understanding that the register key is an aid to sounding these notes but it's performance is not automatic.

In my own regular practice and in my teaching now I use the production of harmonics to make sure that I have correctly shaped my airstream and to play this upper register properly. With a higher, lifted placement of the tongue, and careful application of a sufficiently pressurised airstream, it should be possible to sound the entire clarion register by simply repeating the lower chalumeau register fingerings (low E through open G2) - without using employing the register key.  Admittedly this takes a bit of practice and a some patience of course but it teaches a number of very useful concepts

• 'hearing' and anticipating the feel of upper notes before they are begun
• correct balance between reed strength and embouchure pressure
• increased reliance on air support
• decreased expectancy on lip pressure as a part of the playing of 'high' notes
• stability and predictability of pitch
• increased resonance for all pitches as unnecessary lip pressure is discarded

If regular practice of these 'overtone' harmonics is encouraged early enough many of the problems of producing the upper register tones simply disappear.

Even if a player has long ago succeeded in understanding this register there is almost certain to be a time when, on his/her Bb clarinet, or more likely an A clarinet, there will be an entrance or a sustained quite passage on a note in the range A3 through C3 where 'something' does not feel right or the notes 'crack' downwards or simply not seem to want to behave. When this occurs it is very unnerving and I well remember how helpless I felt when I experienced this phenomenon for the first time. I sought to find answers in the regulation of the instrument, in changing the key heights venting, experimenting with reed strength and mouthpiece changes - all to only limited benefit. Years later I was introduced to learning to play overtones as above and to 'The One Handed Scale' and these approaches improved my playing greatly.

I was introduced to 'The One Handed Scale' by clarinet designer, acoustician and performer Tom Ridenour and I wish to acknowledge him and thank him for the time and interest he displayed in showing me this. The production is simple and I would encourage all clarinet players to give it a try:

Staring with long fingered middle C2, utilising the RH F/C key play the first 5 notes of a C major scale exactly as normal - including use of the register key. When ready to play the 6th note, A3, replace your fingers on the starting fingering for C2 and 'think' and shape higher, as if to 'miss' the note deliberately, and if you are fortunate, you will be able to sound an admittedly false sounding A3 as an harmonic of C2. For the next 2 notes simply finger middle register D2 and Eb2 while continuing to 'think' and 'shape' for the harmonic register. You will have played your C major scale and only have used your right hand! 'The One Handed Scale'.

If you find the A3 difficult to sound you are not alone. Acoustically it is the weakest harmonic note of this range and requires the most shaping from the player. Sometimes it is easier to access it and learn the proper feel to expect by descending from overblown fingered Eb2 (sounding C3) going to fingered D2 (sounding B3) and then working to settle into fingered C2 (sounding A3). Experiment with tongue, air and lip positions to improve the pitching and resonance of these notes. The difference when one returns to 'normal fingerings' is remarkable and can make a huge difference to how you feel about this register. If you have enjoyed this process you can, of course, expand upon the ideas expressed above and apply the principal of overblown harmonics to a number of other scales and passages where this sort of practice might help improve the results of 'normal' playing later. It can be great fun and a useful challenge for anyone. Best wishes.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.


Thomas Dryer-Beers

Reed Squeaks - Why this happens and what to do when it does

Reed Squeaks - Why this happens and what to do when it does

Almost all clarinet and saxophone players have at some point experienced their reed 'squeaking', often it seems in a most embarrassing situation or circumstance. Other reed players will usually offer sympathy - players of different instruments (brass, strings, percussion) just wonder what is going on - as we might well also. Here is my attempt to explain the 'reed squeak' in layman's terms and a few suggestions for what once can do to help.

The squeak of the reed is an uncontrolled harmonic or unintended sounding due to the vibration of the air column being adversely or improperly generated, usually at the mouthpiece / reed end or sometimes within the tube of the instrument.

Checklist:

• If this should happen to you the first place to check is the reed 'seat' on the mouthpiece. One can check this visually using a straight edge ruler or knife, sighting along the flat underside of the reed and looking in the direction of a strong light source. If light 'leaks' or shines through a gap under or around the reed then the cane has warped and must be flattened either by careful scraping using the straight knife blade or rubbing the reed on a sandpaper placed on a flat surface. A reed resurfacer may also be used for this purpose. Once the cane underside appears flat again retest by playing and see if the problem has disappeared. A suction test can be performed to see if the reed will do its job properly again - here is how:

Place the reed on the mouthpiece and tighten the ligature as normal. Lick or wet the palm of the hand. Place the 'back end' of the mouthpiece on your hand and placing your lips around the tip of the mouthpiece aggressively suck backwards removing as much air from inside the mouthpiece as you can. Release the mouthpiece from your lips pulling it out and hopefully the reed will hold in the closed position for 2-3 or more seconds until the vacuum is lost and the reed 'pops' open with a noise. This test takes a bit of practice but once you get the knack it is a very useful indication of a reeds state of readiness to perform.

• Less frequently wear or damage can occur to the facing of the mouthpiece itself and this can be the source of a air leak either between the reed and the 'table' of the facing or on the rails or tip where they come into contact with reed. This type of wear is often difficult to detect but if problems with squeaking or reed response are a regular occurrence then this may well be the explanation. Try some different mouthpieces and / or visit a mouthpiece craftsman with the proper tools to check and measure the mouthpiece.

• It is also possible on both clarinet and saxophone that a hairline or larger leak is affecting the accurate sounding of one or more notes. This can be due to pad seating but is often more subtle sometimes on the clarinet occurring due to an incomplete closure of the finger to the top of a tone hole on the instrument - i.e. the ring positioned to 'high' or the incomplete closure of a pad due to a ring positioned too 'low'. Check especially the left hand 1st and 2nd finger rings and the right hand rings. If your finger(s) bottom out on the tone hole before the ring fully closes the pad a leak will be present. If the pad closes before the ring allows your finger to cover an open hole air can leak out under the finger. Bend the key work in the appropriate direction to overcome the non-alignment. A butter knife or other thin, flat metal plate can be used.

• Common sources of response problems for the saxophone is found in the correspondence connections relating to the left had 2nd finger touch (which must hold down 3 key/pads in total) and also the right hand correspondences to the F# pad. Regulation screws, where present may help to return the correct function of these keys but be prepared to insert a butter knife or other thin, flat metal plate underneath a pad to be able to close a related key arm to overcome the closure problem. If you go too far you may have to reverse the process.

• Poor regulation of the G# key screw can account for poor performance of low C#, B and Bb. I recommend that this be checked each time you play.

• Whenever key work is adjusted there is a chance that the attempted correction will not go well or even be the wrong answer to a problem so having a good repairer available to visit should your best emergency efforts fail is always advisable.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Tonal Differences Between Makes of Flutes

Tonal Differences Between Makes of Intermediate 

and Professional Flutes

While there are a myriad of makes and models sharing similar specifications and much confusion regarding their quality of performance it is possible to make some useful observations on the differences, both intentional and anecdotal, between different flutes. These might help interested players to find the type of instrument most likely to suit their playing expectations.

Manufacturers of popular and well respected ‘Step-Up’ or Intermediate levels include:

Altus, Azumi, Pearl, Trevor James and Yamaha

Manufacturers of highly respected ‘Top Range’ or Professional levels include:

Miyazawa, Muramatsu, Sankyo and Yamaha

While there are many additional makes, some of which are excellent, for the purposes of this blog entry I will concentrate on these well respected names.

Of the above makes flutes from Altus, Azumi, Miyazawa, Sankyo and Trevor James all tend to have brighter tone colours and are more immediately responsive. This is due to the concepts underlying the design of the embouchure hole and the cut of the lip plate / chimney as well as the metal composition, the weight and dimensions of the walls of the headjoint and body tube. These flutes will tend to be attractive to and suit well the player who wishes a fine result for little effort.

Flutes from Muramatsu, Pearl and Yamaha tend to have darker or ‘richer’ tone colours and it is often remarked that a player has to ‘work a bit harder’ to draw out the sound. While this might potentially be viewed as an negative observation the result of the willingness of the player to support and direct the airstream with a bit energy is that the tone achieved is likely to have more carrying power and projection with a richer and fuller spectrum of harmonic colours in the sound. The ‘core’ of the sound will be better perceived.

Further:

Azumi and Altus flutes are closely related – Azumi flutes are supplied with an Altus cut headjoint – and perform similarly – the Altus being the entirely ‘Made in Japan’ instrument. Miyazawa instruments are highly responsive, wonderfully engineered and innovative with Brogger system keywork options (making the key action more stable and reliable as well as beautiful) and various body tube metal silver contents from which to choose. Sankyo and Muramatsu have long established reputations and offer features and characteristics quite different from one another. When comparing these two brands one can clearly see that though each flute may have a silver headjoint or a silver body tube and headjoint, the shared specification does most certainly not mean that they will perform the same. At the highest end of flute production it is individual craftsmanship that often sets instruments apart as well as their ability to convey a ‘musical personality’ to the user.

Flutes supplied in yet greater higher silver content specifications than the above (including solid silver keywork and additional precious metals) as well as further possible keywork options are available and the differences will be noticed by experienced players but the perceived benefits tend to diminish and tend to be more difficult to quantify as the costs increase. If one is looking at the purchase of a professional 'tool' for solo or orchestral playing or wishes to simply be rewarded by owning the 'best money can buy' then these finer points are perhaps worth the additional expenditure and will certainly contribute to the enjoyment of any instrument.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Differences Between Student, Intermediate & Professional Models

Differences Between Student, Intermediate 

& Professional Models

In common usage these terms are becoming less relevant with the passage of time – other than a still useful way to differentiate between the costs of the ranges of instruments. The quality of student instruments has, on the whole, risen significantly while the number of true ‘intermediate’ models has declined and in the meantime the number of highly competitive models claiming to be of professional standard has increased.

As a rule in general, the best ‘made for purpose’ models still aim to achieve the following:

Student – Lighter weight, often designed to be more responsive and encouraging for young players frequently offering beginner specific keywork designs, simplified key mechanisms, quality starter mouthpieces/headjoints and supplied with durable yet convenient cases many with shoulder carry or rucksack straps.

Intermediate – Heavier built than student models and using better materials to enhance tonal quality and reward the progress that has been made in the early years of playing. Slight increases in resistance to match the player’s growing capabilities, often more fully keyed, sometimes accompanied by better quality mouthpieces and frequently supplied as outfits with more sophisticated cases that will stand up to longer periods of use.

Professional – Here you will find the highest degree of intonation accuracy, even heavier built and weighted to make the most well developed of airstreams and still hold sound together. Top quality materials are used, more hand finishing employed and the highest level of quality control, more design input from professional players and development teams, the fullest range of keywork and other options. A wider range of finishes is often available including custom looks. Greater responsiveness and tonal evenness are a priority and projection is emphasised – all with the intention of aiding the player to better produce a more personal sound and to meet the requirements of a wide range of playing circumstances while allowing the greatest freedom of expression and reliability.

It is worth noting that the quality of the mouthpieces supplied with intermediate and professional level clarinets,  saxophones and many brass instruments are often not equal to the standard of the instrument as manufacturers expect most players to have upgraded to their own choice of mouthpiece by the time they come to choosing a professional standard instrument. Some notable exceptions to this are Selmer, Yanagisawa, Holton, Conn, Bach, Paxman and Yamaha Custom each of whom includes a quality mouthpiece with their outfits.

NB – Sadly there are some very poor quality instruments, especially in the student range and often generic or ‘shop branded’ that are simply best avoided. Often compromises to the materials used, quality control and design will have been compromised  and performance will be sacrificed. When considering the purchase if a musical instrument I would always suggest seeking advice from an experienced, knowledgeable player and visiting a specialist shop who can offer the support and guidance necessary to make you feel comfortable making your choice.

The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Tips on How to Trial a Saxophone CASS Article

 

Tips on How to Trial a Saxophone

From CASS article on Choosing a Saxophone, by Thomas Dryer-Beers

   

Tips on How to Trial a Saxophone

• Play all instruments with a mouthpiece and reed that you know well. Too many variables make attempting comparisons a nonsense.
• Take along or have in mind some music you are familiar with of the type you wish to play - be prepared.
• If you know the technique of over-blowing octaves and twelfths use this to see whether the instrument is 'in tune with itself'. Alternatively find a reliable 'fixed pitch' source and carefully tune to it. You can get a very poor feeling from an instrument if you do not get the mouthpiece correctly positioned on the crook for proper tuning. Be wary of relying on electronic tuners. All saxophones are acoustic compromises. When you use a tuner you are generally learning more about yourself and how you play than about any individual instrument.
• Test a range of volumes. Instruments reveal more of their tonal colour when blown loudly but you will want to know that you can sustain the sound softly as well.
• Other than checking for finger fluency and comfort, fast notes don't inform you nearly as well as sustained tones. A point worth remembering is that spring tensions or keys can be adjusted if they are too strong or too weak. Never reject an instrument because a spring feels odd.
• Test the response at the high and low extremes of the range but don't expect miracles - especially when tonguing. It takes a while to really get to know a new instrument and you may need to make some adjustments (for the better - this is known as 'progress'!). If you select a sax that plays just like your old instrument you have to wonder whether the purchase was worthwhile.
• Compare alternative fingerings, e.g. the several Bb, C, F# options to see if the instrument has been well set-up. This can be an indication of good preparation by the seller.

It is worth considering that you are most likely to choose a sax that suits your own level of ability (as long as finances permit). Therefore, as every individual is unique, not all players will find themselves choosing the same model. 

What matters most is that the saxophone selected is one that will provide you with the greatest encouragement and inspiration for your musical future.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

A Ligature Discussion - Clarinet and Saxophone

Ligatures in General

As an extra or upgrade 'add-on' for players the ligature has been a point of much discussion and debate for decades. Many different designs and materials have vied for attention and aspired to commercial success with what sometimes seem an endless parade of marketing in support the claims of better performance, tone colour, responsiveness, etc. This blog posting is my take on the subject.

 

The job of the ligature is to hold the reed securely in position on the mouthpiece. Everything follows from this. 

 

 

While many inexpensive ligatures are perfectly adequate there are also far too many that are of such poor manufacture quality or fit that performance problems are bound to occur leading to player dissatisfaction. Any metal ligature that is the wrong size, has become damaged or bent, or is not able to be tightened fully, should be replaced.

The possible upgrade ligature options fall largely into two categories:

• those designed to alter the natural sound by absorbing vibrations (to varying degrees) and 
• those that seek to affect the vibrations of the reed and mouthpiece (and hence the sound) as little as possible.

Many teachers and players know and recommend the Rovner flexible fabric range as a result of decades of familiarity and the standard, custom and light Rovner options fall into the first category. The Custom version, having additional material, absorbs more vibration and creates a darker sound; the Light version with the window cut away, absorbs less vibration and therefore has reduced a darkening effect. The Rovner standard (original) is the best known and the most often recommended as it suited to many playing styles and is the original and most familiar. Players perceive all of them as allowing the reed to play better – i.e. improved articulation response and reed sensitivity - over the performance of a standard metal ligature, the type supplied with most student clarinets and saxophones, and against which most comparisons are made. Every player should take time as some stage in their maturation to experience such products. Other manufacturer’s products falling into this broad first category include the Vandoren Leather and Classic string ligatures, BG standard flexible versions and Silverstein string ligatures.

In the second category are ligatures that rely on a small metal contact points to engage the reed. These are usually intended to allow the reed to vibrate as freely as possible and often seek as well to provide a greater security of contact between the reed and mouthpiece. All of these types of ligatures have the effect of increasing the presence of higher partial overtones in the tone, therefore sounding brighter, and aiding the responsiveness of the reed vibration as well as increasing the perceived volume of sound to be achieved with the same effort. Some versions are engineered to have as little contact as possible with the mouthpiece as well to further release vibration therefore maximising brightness (Francois Louis, Vandoren Masters Optimum, SAXXAS, Bonade, Rico H for example), others with much greater mass and increased contact with the mouthpiece are intended to add stability for a greater roundness of sound (Vandoren Optimum, Rovner Platinum, BG Super Revelation for example).

Some plastic ligature options are also worth considering, especially for the player who has ‘tried everything else’. Luyben and Bois with their dramatically different designs are cases in point and worthy of consideration.

 

How do I make a choice?

When you are trying ligatures is a good idea to make sure that you are using a new or ‘newish’ quality reed of sufficient strength (an older reed is likely to disappoint or make discrimination difficult and a too soft reed will disguise all benefits) and then  you should play the same scale, same volume, both legato and staccato, on each option under consideration, without spending too long on any one because it is the comparison BETWEEN ligatures is most important – they will all work - and one can easily lose track of what each plays like if too much time is spent.

A good ligature can be as important to a player as their choice of mouthpiece and it is worth taking time to discover the difference that can be made.

Apologies to any manufacturer whose products have not been mentioned by name. I am aware that despite my efforts there will be many omissions and, of course, new products are continually being introduced. I would encourage all players to be open minded and try the options available as widely  as is reasonable for them to do. It is not unusual to own and use a number of different ligatures for different purposes and to fit different mouthpieces.

Further comments:

How much should a ligature be tightened?

            Finger tight is the short answer. Too tight and the reed fibres are damaged and the reed’s vibration is strangled – too loose and the reed more likely to move or begin to warp and then  will not hold a vacuum.

Are most of the brands available for metal mouthpieces?

            Yes, but some metal ones have to be very carefully sized for fit. There can be more confidence and ease in offering flexible ligatures in cases of unusual dimension or shapes.

Personal opinion:

The ligature is the ‘icing on the cake’ and reflects a player's personal preferences and playing concepts. In my estimation the ligature is responsible for approximately 3-5% of the overall sound generated. It has a bigger impact upon ‘playing feel’ and reed response than tone quality itself.

In my opinion the mouthpiece, and very importantly its reed match, is far more important. My estimate is that together they are responsible for up to 70% of the overall sound generated. Getting this combination right will have a huge impact upon tone.

The combination of the above leaves just over 20% effect upon sound from the instrument itself.

These conclusions are not meant to suggest that the ligature or the instrument used is not important, far from it, but they should indicate the relative importance of the mouthpiece and reed working well together. As long as the ligature does its job - holding the reed in proper position - results will follow. It is in the subtleties of the result that the interest for the player really lies.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers