High Energy / High Baffle Sax Mouthpieces

High Energy / High Baffle Sax Mouthpieces

A recent question from a pupil revived this subject for me and inspired some further thoughts that I would like to share.

The subject of how a sax player creates a distinctive sound and musical personality is complicated and one of the biggest factors is the mouthpiece and reed 'set-up' they choose. For many players their choice of equipment is an evolution, from whatever was supplied with their starter instrument, to perhaps a mouthpiece recommended by a tutor or colleague, to mouthpieces that they have selected themselves following many comparisons and perhaps finally to one inspired by an influential player whose sound and musical approach seem to represent exactly what one wishes to achieve. It was whilst considering this final stage that my thoughts have recently been engaged.

One of the most attractive qualities associated with contemporary popular sax styles is an 'edgy', vibrant tone, one that is soulful and expressive and that competes, when amplified, with the sounds guitars, keyboards and synthesizers. For example, alto saxophonist David Sanborn established a personal style that was highly influential throughout the 1970's through to the present day and is now widely imitated and admired to this day. He learned how to get the most out of his Dukoff Silverite metal mouthpiece and for many players this set-up became their choice as well. Other brands including Berg Larsen (ebonite and metal), Brilhart 'Level Air' (metal), Beechler (plastic and metal), Claude Lakey (plastic) and Lawton (ebonite and metal) have also been popular (and no doubt other makes as well). The late and greatly missed Michael Brecker had huge influence on tenor saxophone sounds using his Dukoff and later Dave Guardala mouthpieces. Since the late 1980's many other manufactures have also entered the market place manufacturing 'high energy' mouthpieces.

The common factor amongst all of these mouthpieces is the presence of a 'high baffle' the terminology for which can itself cause some confusion. This feature is a reduction of the distance of the gap inside the chamber of a mouthpiece between the flat underside surface of the reed and the mouthpiece baffle itself. The result is a 'squeeze' of the vibrating air column as air passes through the gap. One could almost say that the 'ceiling' of the mouthpiece inside chamber shape has been 'lowered' to achieve this - hence the confusion. The exaggerated 'high' position of the baffle accentuates the higher overtones present in the vibrating column of air, allows for an easier response of the upper altissimo register, can make lower register tones more difficult to attack with subtlety (without playing with a subtone), may alter or accentuate intonation patterns, creates the impression of greater projection and, of course, adds 'edge'.

When many saxophonists first try such mouthpieces they can be shocked by the sounds they make. These may vary from surprisingly attractive, to promising but challenging to control, to positively ugly or sqeaky. What I believe lies behind these reactions and helps to explain the range of responses by players is something that frequently goes unstated and under appreciated:

How one uses and focuses the air stream is critical to success.

• A 'high baffle' mouthpiece must be allowed to 'do its thing' and the musician must learn how not to interfere and allow the set-up to work freely.

A frequent further contributing factor to potential disappointment is the use of too much lip pressure on the reed. High baffle mouthpieces are highly efficient. They will create their sound with a minimum of embouchure effort as long as sufficient, energised and well-focussed air is present. In fact they will often play best when matched with a slightly stronger reed as a too-soft reed will not provide sufficient resistance to the powerful air stream in use and is likely to lead to a kazoo like sound and an overall loss of control.

When I watch wonderful players deeply involved in blowing their saxes I often note the impression they can give of 'working hard' as they blow, especially as they strive for upper register notes. In fact I am convinced what is actually happening is an intense concentration on proper focus of their air stream and the removal of lip pressure.

The players are seeking the 'sweet spot':

• Where minimal lip pressure, an ideal positioning of the lower lip on reed for best vibration for the register involved and the employment of a perfectly regulated quantity of air combine to achieve the desired results.

Fine players achieve this complex balancing act so effectively that their listeners do not imagine the effort involved and, those who are themselves sax players, tend to credit their musical heroes and heroines wonderful tones and exciting musicianship to the magic of their mouthpiece - overlooking the skills they have gained through learning how to best use their equipment.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful. 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Why Play the Cor Anglais?

Why Play the Cor Anglais?

I imagine that almost any oboist who has had experience playing or owning a cor anglais will be inclined to answer quickly simply and immediately - because it is fun! I fully share and support this opinion - but it does not say enough about the benefits to the oboist so I hope to expand a little. I would say that experience of playing and better yet owning, playing and treasuring your own cor anglais deserves to be viewed as an important part of the development and maturation of every oboist.

The similarities between oboe and cor are many and following a predictable initial shock and the requisite alteration of habits and expectations transferred from the oboe the cor is largely playable by most oboists of a reasonable standard. The primary differences one will at first encounter are the relatively larger size and weight of the instrument, the stretch fingers and placement of keywork and the blowing position as the cor does rely upon a bent crook.

The size and weight are best addressed by using a sling, a fairly standard practice for the cor, to take the weight and relax the hands. The finger stretch and placement do take some getting used to however, since the demands for speed of finger action are considerably lower for most of the cor repertoire, there is usually time and opportunity to learn to ease the fingers into place to cover holes correctly and gently.  Allow the instrument to hang down between the legs so that the reed on the crook enters your mouth at approximately the same angle as you have with your oboe reed. Transferring some of these skills back to the oboe is often beneficial in itself and may eventually result in a more fluid technique on your main instrument.

Oboists often discover that the cor uses up a greater amount of air than the oboe. This is true and logical if you consider the larger size bore. Learning how to breathe more deeply and how to best hold onto the greater reservoir of air required is a very useful learning process and the discipline and awareness that one learns are sure to enhance breathing and phrasing on the oboe as well.

The Cor Anglias is almost entirely a solo voice in the orchestra or ensemble and as such when it is included in a score it is intended to be heard - almost never a 'filler'. This implies that tone and projection are very important concerns for the player. Mastering the production of a fine, centred, colourful tone with good projection takes time and more than anything replies upon learing to relax the embouchure so as to not 'stifle' the sound with the same embouchure pressure as one uses on the oboe. In addition the aural cavity should be adjusted to 'shape' the air to optimise the resulting tone colour by giving 'space' for the air within the body before filling the reed/crook/instrument. Getting used to hearing oneself instead of feeling 'buried' within an ensemble texture can be a bit nerve wracking to be sure but it also can be a wonderful confidence boost!

Balancing the tonal qualities of different ranges of the cor requires careful listening and the cultivation of new sensitivities. The skills gained through this process are likely to benefit the oboe as well. Learning to produce and then employ vibrato is ofter easier to do at first on the Cor Anglais as it is a more flexible instrument and a wider amplitude of vibrato and a slower speed can be acceptable. Vibrato skills learned on the cor can later be transferred to the more precise demands of the oboe.

Even if one does not make their own cor reeds learing how to handle and adjust a different size of reed can be very useful. Most players will play a less resistant reed on their cor than their oboe and learing to 'take pressure off the lips and place emphasis upon the air' will not only make for a better cor sound and more accurate intonation but can be applied to the oboe often with great benefit.

Learning to switch between, care for and maintain your instrument is also very beneficial as it is often the case (even likely) that your oboe and cor will have been made by different manufacturers and the key mechanisms and even the specification (covered hole, ring system, thoumbplate, conservatoire system, half hole split keys, LH F, trill keys, 3rd octave key, etc.) will be different. Coping with this is a fact of life for many players and it should make you a more flexible individual capable of understanding all your equipment better.

I would recommend splitting your practice time between the different instruments on a regular basis. Playing scales, arpeggios, interval studies and long tones on the cor is time well spent. When the much smaller, lighter and more facile oboe is picked up it is almost certain to feel amazing by contrast.

A final point I would add is that the ability to play the cor, and the ownership of or access to an instrument, can often be the 'ticket' to opportunities to perform with a wider range of ensembles and even result in participation in groups where just being to provide the oboe would not be of interest.

I would encourage all oboists to embrace whatever opportunities they get to play the Cor Anglais. Make sure any instrument you might use is in good condition by having it checked over by a repairer and then go away and do the necessary 'familiarisation' practice. When you feel that you are ready then go out and let everyone know that you have added cor to your skill set. You will be glad you did!

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

A Concept for Blowing - Jazz vs Classical

A Concept for Blowing - Jazz vs Classical Saxophone and More

In the shop environment, and throughout many years of teaching, I have frequently been asked to help players resolve their issues with sound and blowing in order that they may produce the type of tone, and gain the requisite control, for the style of music that they wish to play - or a multitude of styles if they are interested in many. Saxophonists are usually familiar with the dichotomy of Jazz versus Classical playing and often struggle with this. For many other wind and brass players it is matter of producing a personal sound that is appropriate for the style of playing desired.

While I certainly acknowledge that some players quite happily find a 'hybrid' personal approach that bridges the various established styles and may even build their careers from such a position, I believe that  most players are seeking to find how they can manage to separate their approaches and equipment to facilitate and to better define the differences between styles.

I suggest below a couple of concepts that I have developed and players have found helpful.

Since 'Classical' styles of playing are primarily concerned with:

• accuracy of pitch
• control of fine subtleties of tone
• a variety of articulation demands
• focus of the sound
• blend and the ability to balance dynamics

I therefore believe that a player should look for a set-up that allows them to 'blow up to'  a resistance that offers the stability and predictability to meet these criteria. For me this implies the creation of a reliable and manageable 'platform' where if I do 'my bit' to meet the tone generation requirements of the set-up I know that everything I desire to produce is achieveable with as little additional manipulation as possible.

Since 'Jazz' styles of playing are primarily concerned with:

• projection in loud environments
• excitement
• individuality of tone
• flexibility of control
• comfort of sound production

I therefore believe that a player should look for a set-up that allow them to 'blow through' a resistance and in doing so create the desired result. For me this implies a comfort and directness of response without unnecessary additional effort or restriction - where the mouthpiece is free to generate a sound 'propelled', as it were, by the player - while retaining maximum flexibility and ability to influence the tone.

These are concepts not just words

They imply finding the correct balance of resistance from the mouthpiece (and reed where present), the provision of a fundamentally correct and well supported air column, an understanding and application of focus in the oral cavity to the airstream itself, a well considered use of an appropriate embouchure and a choice of equipment that is designed to facilitate the achievement of the desired end result.

• Doing everything 'right' but on the wrong equipment will surely lead to dissatisfaction.
• Doing anything 'wrong', to varying degrees, will likely lead to disappointment with even the very best equipment.

In my opinion it is vital to view the choice of equipment and the player's readiness for physical/musical change as a whole, as ones abilities and requirements are constantly changing.
Furthermore, while there are undoubtedly many good and possibly excellent equipment suggestions to help meet the demands of a particular situation or stage of musical development there is almost never a 'magic mouthpiece' or perfect solution that will last forever.

Perhaps the best we teachers can seek to convey to our students is an understanding of the elements that go into the choice of equipment and their relationship to various playing styles. Players and pupils would do well to understand that what they 'bring to the party' (in terms of their ability to use the equipment and adapt their playing habits to suit the requirements of the desired style) is a very large part of the likely success to be found in any equipment choice - and this should be a continuing focus throughout anyone's playing career.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.


Thomas Dryer-Beers

The Flute Learning Curve

The Flute Learning Curve

 When one begins to learn flute there is a lot to think about: developing a correct embouchure shape, the blowing angle, proper breathing, finger placement, standing position - even just holding the instrument properly. Simply managing the making of tone of any kind is an achievement! Almost always the first sounds are often very breathy, weak and inconsistent. Very frustrating for all. 

However, if one is patient control begins to develop with practice and repetition and eventually the beginner becomes functional over a range of the first and perhaps second octave of the instrument. This is enough for most players to join a group, play some solos and generally feel good about their music making. 

At some point comes the realisation that not every note is sounding as good as the others and some notes may seem more difficult to play and possibly even be out of tune with other instruments in the group or band. At this juncture the guidance of an experienced teacher, if this has not already been available, becomes a necessity - for learning how to focus and shape each individual tone to sound its best and to take its place in a reliable, predictable intonation pattern is vital. This is a goal of every player and careful attention needs to be paid to fundamentals to achieve this.

Here is a short checklist:

• Is my stance correct, i.e. balanced weight, feet spread apart, able to move without tension?
• Am I breathing fully and supporting the breath well once taken?
• How are my lips 'addressing' the embouchure hole? Are they relaxed and supple?
• How and where am I directing my air stream?
• How efficient am I being when moving across larger leaps or octaves?
• Are my lips under control - moving easily and only as required?
• Is the tone quality the same throughout all registers?
• Can I play upper notes quietly and lower register notes loudly?
• Do all notes respond to slurring as well as tonguing?
• Can I play softly and stay in tune (avoiding the pitch dropping)?
• Can I play loudly and not go sharp?
• Am I tonguing efficiently or is my tongue stroke disrupting my lips?

Also check:

• Is my headjoint cork in the correct position? (Insert the bottom of the cleaning rod and check the line is in the centre of the embouchure hole)
• Have I pulled out the headjoint an 'appropriate' amount? (For most players approx 6-8mm to A440 pitch position)

All the above points deserve consideration and the time spent improving and developing control will be very valuable. As a general observation improving or intermediate players often play sharp without being aware of it and, until remedies are pointed out to them, they will not know how to respond. Just pulling out the headjoint is not enough as every note has its own 'best' embouchure and blowing angle.

Practice with a tuner will help (and probably shock initially) but eventually the intonation pattern of the instrument begins to be revealed. When this is observed then attention can be given to making the appropriate corrections required while playing to achieve proper tuning. This process can be helped enormously by remembering that very few good sounding, centered and attractive tones will be far if at all 'out of tune' whereas almost all bad sounding notes will be! This leads to a very memorable sentence:

Good in-tone-ation leads to good in-tune-ation.

 

As a quick aid this catchy concept is hard to beat and it can lead on to a lifetime of rewarding and efficient practice. As one reaches top levels of achievement standards the challenges do not end they just change and a player will become able to handle more difficult passages with ease but when faced with something daunting must still go back to basics to figure out how to tackle the problem and somehow make the seemingly impossible appear not only possible but beautiful!

 

 The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

The Value of Repairers

The Value of Repairers

It is all too easy to forget the value and importance of a good musical instrument repairer to ones experience of their beloved instrument. Repairers, good ones, will usually have completed a multi-year training course to learn the skills that the rest of us can only guess at. These courses often have a final project of making an instrument, often a clarinet or perhaps a trumpet, completely by hand so that all the related skills of wood and metal turnings, tone hole drilling, key work construction, plating, soldering, padding, springing, mounting of key work and finishing are experienced 'from the inside out'.

Learning the proper techniques and use of tools for dent removal, key work straightening and silencing, pad seating and the balancing of springs and mechanisms, crack repair and reconstruction following major damage is a lifelong and continuing effort and one where experiences gained from handling hundreds of instruments is vital. An inquisitive repairer will pay attention to and learn from all of the situations which he or she has encountered and then draw upon these experiences to both inform, improve and make more efficient subsequent repairs.

It is not unusual in many music shops for a senior repairer to over see the work of more junior repair staff for a number of years before the apprentices are truly competent to take on unsupervised repair work for customers.

The result of all this training, on the job experience and supervision, is a highly skilled individual who should be able assess the genuine cause of poor instrument performance and have the skills to repair the problems identified and thereby return an instrument to a top condition - often 'better than new' - as instrument manufacturers are usually producing instruments under such time pressure that final finishing stages are rushed and such time consuming personal attention is not feasible.

In addition to all the time spent gaining knowledge and experience a repairer is providing a service that relies upon expensive tools, machinery and consumables (pads, corks, felts, screws etc.). A selection of woodwind pads of suitable sizes to handle most demands can cost thousands of pounds for each instrument. Brass dents tools and mandrels are very costly as well. Maintaining a workshop is a significant expense and of course, so are handling the inevitable questions of customers. Customers should be wary of 'cheap' repairs and my advice is to allow a repairer to do the job that they feel your instrument requires or deserves. This often ends up being the best way to ensure proper performance and ensure cost effectiveness. You should be encouraged to ask friends and colleagues or working professional for their recommendations for repairers. It is usually best advice to pay for good quality repairs and work to maintain the condition of your instrument afterwards.

A note to all players and teachers - 

  
All musicians are well advised to pay attention to the construction and function of their instruments and it does pay to learn some 'quick fix' skills for emergency situations. Teachers really should prepare themselves to be able to advise their pupils on the condition of their instruments and perhaps understand and execute simple key work regulation and explain proper handling, cleaning and lubrication as a part of the regular lesson process.

Even a little time spent understanding how instruments function is sure to prove very useful throughout a playing / teaching career and the knowledge gained is fascinating in itself - if for no reason than to better appreciate the further skills and resources provided by an actual repairer when a situation calls for their greater experience to solve more major problems or provide the more thorough servicing that will keep an instrument playing at its best.

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The thoughts and comments above are the result of many years of learning from and reliance upon the skills of repairers for my own and my pupils instruments. I am grateful for the help and service that I have received as well as the inspiration that I have drawn from my encounters with some very talented and dedicated professional repairers. It has been my privilege to have worked alongside many such repairers including Daniel Bangham, Brian Dent and Timothy Taylor from Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) and others in the UK and USA to whom I am indebted.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

A Ligature Discussion - Clarinet and Saxophone

Ligatures in General

As an extra or upgrade 'add-on' for players the ligature has been a point of much discussion and debate for decades. Many different designs and materials have vied for attention and aspired to commercial success with what sometimes seem an endless parade of marketing in support the claims of better performance, tone colour, responsiveness, etc. This blog posting is my take on the subject.

 

The job of the ligature is to hold the reed securely in position on the mouthpiece. Everything follows from this. 

 

 

While many inexpensive ligatures are perfectly adequate there are also far too many that are of such poor manufacture quality or fit that performance problems are bound to occur leading to player dissatisfaction. Any metal ligature that is the wrong size, has become damaged or bent, or is not able to be tightened fully, should be replaced.

The possible upgrade ligature options fall largely into two categories:

• those designed to alter the natural sound by absorbing vibrations (to varying degrees) and 
• those that seek to affect the vibrations of the reed and mouthpiece (and hence the sound) as little as possible.

Many teachers and players know and recommend the Rovner flexible fabric range as a result of decades of familiarity and the standard, custom and light Rovner options fall into the first category. The Custom version, having additional material, absorbs more vibration and creates a darker sound; the Light version with the window cut away, absorbs less vibration and therefore has reduced a darkening effect. The Rovner standard (original) is the best known and the most often recommended as it suited to many playing styles and is the original and most familiar. Players perceive all of them as allowing the reed to play better – i.e. improved articulation response and reed sensitivity - over the performance of a standard metal ligature, the type supplied with most student clarinets and saxophones, and against which most comparisons are made. Every player should take time as some stage in their maturation to experience such products. Other manufacturer’s products falling into this broad first category include the Vandoren Leather and Classic string ligatures, BG standard flexible versions and Silverstein string ligatures.

In the second category are ligatures that rely on a small metal contact points to engage the reed. These are usually intended to allow the reed to vibrate as freely as possible and often seek as well to provide a greater security of contact between the reed and mouthpiece. All of these types of ligatures have the effect of increasing the presence of higher partial overtones in the tone, therefore sounding brighter, and aiding the responsiveness of the reed vibration as well as increasing the perceived volume of sound to be achieved with the same effort. Some versions are engineered to have as little contact as possible with the mouthpiece as well to further release vibration therefore maximising brightness (Francois Louis, Vandoren Masters Optimum, SAXXAS, Bonade, Rico H for example), others with much greater mass and increased contact with the mouthpiece are intended to add stability for a greater roundness of sound (Vandoren Optimum, Rovner Platinum, BG Super Revelation for example).

Some plastic ligature options are also worth considering, especially for the player who has ‘tried everything else’. Luyben and Bois with their dramatically different designs are cases in point and worthy of consideration.

 

How do I make a choice?

When you are trying ligatures is a good idea to make sure that you are using a new or ‘newish’ quality reed of sufficient strength (an older reed is likely to disappoint or make discrimination difficult and a too soft reed will disguise all benefits) and then  you should play the same scale, same volume, both legato and staccato, on each option under consideration, without spending too long on any one because it is the comparison BETWEEN ligatures is most important – they will all work - and one can easily lose track of what each plays like if too much time is spent.

A good ligature can be as important to a player as their choice of mouthpiece and it is worth taking time to discover the difference that can be made.

Apologies to any manufacturer whose products have not been mentioned by name. I am aware that despite my efforts there will be many omissions and, of course, new products are continually being introduced. I would encourage all players to be open minded and try the options available as widely  as is reasonable for them to do. It is not unusual to own and use a number of different ligatures for different purposes and to fit different mouthpieces.

Further comments:

How much should a ligature be tightened?

            Finger tight is the short answer. Too tight and the reed fibres are damaged and the reed’s vibration is strangled – too loose and the reed more likely to move or begin to warp and then  will not hold a vacuum.

Are most of the brands available for metal mouthpieces?

            Yes, but some metal ones have to be very carefully sized for fit. There can be more confidence and ease in offering flexible ligatures in cases of unusual dimension or shapes.

Personal opinion:

The ligature is the ‘icing on the cake’ and reflects a player's personal preferences and playing concepts. In my estimation the ligature is responsible for approximately 3-5% of the overall sound generated. It has a bigger impact upon ‘playing feel’ and reed response than tone quality itself.

In my opinion the mouthpiece, and very importantly its reed match, is far more important. My estimate is that together they are responsible for up to 70% of the overall sound generated. Getting this combination right will have a huge impact upon tone.

The combination of the above leaves just over 20% effect upon sound from the instrument itself.

These conclusions are not meant to suggest that the ligature or the instrument used is not important, far from it, but they should indicate the relative importance of the mouthpiece and reed working well together. As long as the ligature does its job - holding the reed in proper position - results will follow. It is in the subtleties of the result that the interest for the player really lies.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers