Developing Better Hand Position for Efficient Playing

Developing Better Hand Position for Efficient Playing

A recent enquiry set my mind off thinking of the many times I have tried to either help myself, my pupils or colleagues to improve one aspect or other of their hand position and finger motion - the goal usually being to reduce strain on the hand, thumb, wrist or fingers or to increase playing speed in a technically challenging passage. Over many years of observation, and benefiting from welcome guidance of numerous fine teachers, several strategies have 'won out' and remain part of my repertoire to this day. I would like to share some thoughts and suggestions.

• Relaxation is vital

We all have different hand and finger shapes and finding the most relaxed, comfortable position for operation of the keys or valves is vital. Every instrument has its own requirements that need to be studied and acknowledged. If you take time to observe fine performers whom you respect you are likely to see good habits manifested. Look at yourself and your posture / fingering in the mirror while playing. How do you compare with those whose technique you admire?

Bad habits often start by not paying attention to what for each of us is most natural and relaxed. Even with the best of intentions forcing a finger to stretch or move a certain way that is not comfortable rarely leads to efficient or sustainable technique. Remember, though it may seem obvious, it is a good idea to try to adapt to the requirements of your instrument and not expect it to adapt to you.

• Repetition with a purpose

Practising a passage over and over again without examining what your fingers are actually doing can become very frustrating and even cause damage to the delicate tissues, muscles and tendons of the hand or arm. Practice slowly in a controlled manner in order to learn new habits or reinforce better finger function. Better finger coordination, relaxation and accuracy should be the goal.

Allow speed to be the end result of a careful and considered, slow study of exactly how your fingers are required to move in order to perform the passage. Speed should never be the first consideration. 

Remember: 'Do not run before you can walk.'

• Understanding the issue

If one considers the requirements of the many and varied actions required to change notes, perform trills and execute leaps on wind instruments over a sustained period of time there is a huge range of motions and co-ordinations to be executed, with micro-second precision and often involving quite complex and 'unnatural' (in most any other context) motions. 

Think about the following for example:

Am I attempting to close a key or depress a valve? In which case the note that I wish to create has a tube length which will only be fully realised at the finish of the action. 

Am I opening a key or releasing a valve? In this case the note I have been on will begin to be 'lost' the instant I move from its closed position and the new tube length / note will begin as soon as the motion starts but not fully achieved until the action of the release is completed.

Am I opening some keys / valves while closing others (or visa versa)? Which tube lengths will begin to sound or stop sounding first? How must the action of my fingers therefore compensate for the requirements of this action on my instrument?

Are some of my fingers 'weaker' than others? Do I have to be more aware of these fingers in order to perform a passage smoothly? Do some fingers seem to 'charge ahead' and would they perhaps benefit from being 'held back' in order to balance with the rest? Learning how to 'weight' a note or set of notes is a very valuable skill and one frequently called upon to even out playing both physically and musically.

• Tension, present but never in excess

Whilst some degree of  'tension' is required to hold the hand and fingers in the most appropriate 'ready' position in order to operate keys or valves but such tension should be kept to a minimum. When operating keys or valves it is a good idea to distribute the muscle actions required up your forearms engaging these longer muscles rather than relying solely on the fingers or wrist to create movement. This use of the forearm muscles is very natural and this is how our bodies are meant to work but the familiar introduction of excess and unnecessary tension continually circumvents these very natural motions resulting in a 'locked' hand and 'seized-up' or 'tight' fingers. 

Try always to allow the fingers to find their own gently curved positions, ready to engage with key work or valves with a minimum of effort and travel distance and look to the muscles of the forearms to be the source of the action for lifting and closing.

• Acceptance of limits

 If you have observed, considered, practised and as a result, managed to improve your finger technique, you will begin over time to approach your own personal maximum for speed and accuracy. As long as you are able to remain relaxed while you work to develop your most efficient finger technique you can expect that increased speed and accuracy will result. However, not everyone can achieve the same finger speeds or degree of smoothness. We all have our strengths and weaknesses.  

In summary:

Some techniques or passages may take a great deal to time to master but if you are able to acknowledge and accept your limitations while learning (or relearning) the best possible approaches to all aspects of your instrumental finger technique then you are not only more likely to enjoy the physical act of playing but also find it easier to produce more rewarding and satisfying performances.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful. 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Who Might Succeed on the Bassoon?

Who Might Succeed on the Bassoon?

While it is possible to begin upon many types of instruments when a child is younger and smaller the bassoon is not usually consider to be one of them. Until the advent of 'mini bassoons' pitched in G even the innovative 'Short Reach' models which helped make key work manageable for smaller sized hands by reducing the 'finger stretch' required were based upon full size, standard weight instruments. Thus, by default, most players coming to the bassoon have traditionally done so from other woodwind instruments or none, rather than having done their early musical training on the bassoon.

This brings up a relevant question - Who, or rather, what instrumental background, is most likely to be conducive to success on transferring to or adding the bassoon to their instrumental portfolio?

The Recorder can be an excellent preparation for the bassoon as its origin in the pre-Baroque period, its repertoire and the experience of open holes and crucially its basic fingering patterns have many elements in common with the bassoon. Even not withstanding the absence of experience of blowing a double reed, though this must of course be learned, picking up the bassoon may be less of a challenge than moving say from a single reed instrument, where a very different relationship of embouchures is a distinct difference. The bassoon also offers a recorder player an avenue into more modern ensembles.

The Flute may also be a fine preparation for the bassoon as the nimble finger technique and the wide range of the flute with its own tricky cross fingerings for higher register notes is not dissimilar to the challenges a player will face with the bassoon. Again, the lack of experience blowing a reed may actually be a benefit as the unlearning of an embouchure and the muscle shapes based upon mouthpieces can take time. The suppleness of flute embouchure and the natural aural cavity shape and focus of air are likely to make the learning of the bassoon both a bit quicker and more 'natural'. There will almost certainly be some disruption to ones optimal embouchure on the flute but this may be a small price to pay for the reward of playing an 'endangered species' instrument instead of trying to distinguish oneself amongst a crowd of other flautists.

The Clarinet is often considered as a good training instrument for the bassoon as it utilises a similar pattern of fingerings for much of its lower range and a clarinettist is already used to reading both below and above the stave. It also shares the open holes and thumb register key operation (albeit in reverse!) but a word of caution - the optimal aural cavity shape required for the clarinet as well as the fixed, taught muscle formation of the embouchure are very different than the ideal shape and embouchure for the bassoon. Coming to grips with this very fundamental difference is crucial, and usually requires much patience and careful guidance from a knowledgeable and sympathetic teacher. Failure to understand the differences between the instruments often makes for poor results and a genuine loss of good clarinet habits as well. Experience of playing the bass clarinet can be quite helpful as this larger instrument, with its more flexible embouchure and altered aural cavity, is at least a step closer to the bassoon and the 'role' of the instrument in the band or orchestra is also more similar to the bassoon than that of the Bb clarinet.

The Saxophone can also be a possible successful precursor to the bassoon as the more relaxed embouchure and aural cavity shape used on the sax, especially the tenor and baritone sax, bears a close resemblance to that used on the bassoon. The finger system, though simpler by comparison on the sax than the bassoon, does have a logic that transfers reasonably to the bassoon and, not unlike the potential experience of the recorder player, provides one with an introduction to a repertoire and to ensembles that the saxophone alone only rarely is allowed to entry.

Perhaps contrary to expectations the Oboe is possibly the least logical of the woodwind family to lead onto or share time with the bassoon. This is principally due to the very different experiences of blowing these two double reed instruments. The oboe is highly reliant on a high-pressure reservoir of air emitted in small quantities through the narrow aperture of its reed. The bassoon, while also requiring good air support, uses a larger volume of air more quickly. The relative tension of the oboe embouchure differs greatly compared with the more relaxed bassoon embouchure and the dramatically different amount of reed used beyond the lip in proper blowing position are significant differences that few players mange to accommodate successfully - certainly not without a great deal of practice!

A Pianist or String instrument player may have a decent chance of successfully learning the bassoon as their original instrument is so demanding of finger dexterity and reading (in the case of the piano) or discipline, precision finger action and tuning (in the case of string instruments) that the demands of the bassoon may not seem a great challenge - and they have a advantage of not having to unlearn anything in the way of embouchure! Such players can concentrate upon getting things right the first time.

Finally, if a Brass player, especially a low brass (trombone, euphonium or tuba) player is interested in playing the bassoon and is willing to learn take of the challenge of the fingering system, the foreign blowing feel with the reed inside the mouth (instead of the lips vibrating) and the very different sound production of relying upon a double reed, there is little danger of them doing harm to the playing of their original instrument. They will likely already have experience of reading the bass clef and the embouchure of the lower brass instruments is much less likely to be disturbed by the bassoon. Players of the more defined embouchure higher brass (trumpet/cornet, french horn, tenor and baritone horn) are only very rarely likely candidates for playing any woodwind instrument, including bassoon.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Why Pick Up the Piccolo?

Why Pick Up the Piccolo?

 

I imagine that almost any flute player who has had experience playing or owning a good piccolo will be inclined to answer quickly simply and immediately - because it is fun! I fully share and support this opinion - but it does not say enough about the benefits to the flautist so I hope to expand a little. I would say that experience of playing and better yet, playing and treasuring your own piccolo deserves to be viewed as an important part of the development and maturation of every flautist.

The similarities between the flute and piccolo are many. The piccolo sounds a straight octave higher which makes immediate sense, but some differences remain to be addressed. Despite the tendency of many new players to try to 'force' the lips into a smaller embouchure and exert extra effort for the piccolo it actually responds best with a more relaxed embouchure. Yes, the airstream may be more forceful but the lips should almost be allowed to relax to no effort at all to create the ideal small aperture desired. The placement of the piccolo on the lip is also higher than the placement for the flute and this will take some practice to refine. This studied relaxation and related embouchure placement will come with practice (long tones and slurred octaves are very useful) and once the tone and response settle down a piccolo 'attitude' should hopefully become second nature.

This practice may be a bit upsetting for the flute embouchure at first but if you think of the results gained from piccolo practice as an extension of high note practice on the flute the benefits of the greater embouchure relaxation and experimentation with placement will transfer to the flute and be very useful.

The smaller size and lighter weight of the piccolo is an obvious difference. The player's finger technique must be lighter and more precise on the piccolo as tension or unnecessarily heavy contact with keys will disrupt the embouchure and is likely to affect the cleanliness of the sound and response. Transferring some of these skills back to the flute is often beneficial in itself and may eventually result in a more fluid technique on your main instrument.

Carefully observing the tuning of characteristics of a new instrument, in this case the piccolo, can 'open up your ears' to better habits and greater awareness of the tuning on your flute. Everything becomes more critical, not harder, just requiring more refinement and subtle adjustments to work correctly.

Flute players usually discover that the piccolo uses up a smaller amount of air than the flute but requires more solid air support. Learning how to breathe more deeply and how to best hold onto the greater reservoir of air required to stabilise the sound is a very useful learning process and the discipline and awareness that one learns are sure to enhance breathing and phrasing on the flute as well. One's playing posture, important as it is to all musicians, is especially important on the piccolo and working to improve posture goes along with better breathing habits.

The piccolo is almost entirely a solo voice in the band, orchestra or ensemble and as such when it is included in a score it is intended to be heard - almost never a 'filler'. Becoming used to hearing oneself instead of feeling 'buried' within a section may be a bit nerve but it also can be a wonderful confidence boost!

Balancing the tonal qualities of different ranges of the piccolo requires careful listening and the cultivation of new sensitivities. Some ranges where a healthy tone comes easily on the flute may feel weak on the piccolo and vice versa. It is a good goal to strive for evenness of tone from bottom D to top Bb at least. The highest B and C are tricky for many players and downright near impossible on some instruments but they should be pursued, with the relaxed embouchure and very solid airstream mentioned above. If consistently achieved they are a real glory for the player and wonderful to experience.

Learning to switch between and care for your instrument is also very beneficial as it is often the case (even likely) that your flute and piccolo will have been made by different manufacturers and the key mechanisms could feel quite different. Coping with this is a fact of life for many players and it should make you a more flexible individual capable of understanding all your equipment better.
 
I would recommend regularly splitting your practice time between the flute and piccolo. Playing scales, arpeggios, interval studies and long tones on the piccolo is time well spent. When the flute is picked up again your technique is almost certain to feel more fluent. 

Anything written for the flute can be played on the piccolo (with the exception of the low notes below D) but the most rewarding playing may be excerpts from orchestral repertoire, exercise studies or solo repertoire originally for the Descant or Sopranino recorder. I recommend that all learners purchase the 2 volume method by Danielle Eden titled Piccolo Piccolo! It contains progressive studies that deal with all the familiar requirements of the instrument. There is also an excellent collection of practice exercises, studies and orchestral repertoire that has been put together by Trevor Wye and Patricia Morris titled Practice Book for the Piccolo. An excellent investment for anyone.

A final point I would add is that the ability to play the piccolo, and the ownership of or access to an instrument, can often be the 'ticket' to opportunities to perform with a wider range of ensembles and even result in participation in groups where just being able to play the flute would not be of interest.

I would encourage all flute players to embrace whatever opportunities they get to play the piccolo. Make sure any instrument you might use is in good condition by having it checked over by a repairer and then go away and do the necessary 'familiarisation' practice. When you feel that you are ready then go out and let everyone know that you have added piccolo to your skill set. You will be glad you did! 

The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful. 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

The Flute Learning Curve

The Flute Learning Curve

 When one begins to learn flute there is a lot to think about: developing a correct embouchure shape, the blowing angle, proper breathing, finger placement, standing position - even just holding the instrument properly. Simply managing the making of tone of any kind is an achievement! Almost always the first sounds are often very breathy, weak and inconsistent. Very frustrating for all. 

However, if one is patient control begins to develop with practice and repetition and eventually the beginner becomes functional over a range of the first and perhaps second octave of the instrument. This is enough for most players to join a group, play some solos and generally feel good about their music making. 

At some point comes the realisation that not every note is sounding as good as the others and some notes may seem more difficult to play and possibly even be out of tune with other instruments in the group or band. At this juncture the guidance of an experienced teacher, if this has not already been available, becomes a necessity - for learning how to focus and shape each individual tone to sound its best and to take its place in a reliable, predictable intonation pattern is vital. This is a goal of every player and careful attention needs to be paid to fundamentals to achieve this.

Here is a short checklist:

• Is my stance correct, i.e. balanced weight, feet spread apart, able to move without tension?
• Am I breathing fully and supporting the breath well once taken?
• How are my lips 'addressing' the embouchure hole? Are they relaxed and supple?
• How and where am I directing my air stream?
• How efficient am I being when moving across larger leaps or octaves?
• Are my lips under control - moving easily and only as required?
• Is the tone quality the same throughout all registers?
• Can I play upper notes quietly and lower register notes loudly?
• Do all notes respond to slurring as well as tonguing?
• Can I play softly and stay in tune (avoiding the pitch dropping)?
• Can I play loudly and not go sharp?
• Am I tonguing efficiently or is my tongue stroke disrupting my lips?

Also check:

• Is my headjoint cork in the correct position? (Insert the bottom of the cleaning rod and check the line is in the centre of the embouchure hole)
• Have I pulled out the headjoint an 'appropriate' amount? (For most players approx 6-8mm to A440 pitch position)

All the above points deserve consideration and the time spent improving and developing control will be very valuable. As a general observation improving or intermediate players often play sharp without being aware of it and, until remedies are pointed out to them, they will not know how to respond. Just pulling out the headjoint is not enough as every note has its own 'best' embouchure and blowing angle.

Practice with a tuner will help (and probably shock initially) but eventually the intonation pattern of the instrument begins to be revealed. When this is observed then attention can be given to making the appropriate corrections required while playing to achieve proper tuning. This process can be helped enormously by remembering that very few good sounding, centered and attractive tones will be far if at all 'out of tune' whereas almost all bad sounding notes will be! This leads to a very memorable sentence:

Good in-tone-ation leads to good in-tune-ation.

 

As a quick aid this catchy concept is hard to beat and it can lead on to a lifetime of rewarding and efficient practice. As one reaches top levels of achievement standards the challenges do not end they just change and a player will become able to handle more difficult passages with ease but when faced with something daunting must still go back to basics to figure out how to tackle the problem and somehow make the seemingly impossible appear not only possible but beautiful!

 

 The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers