Why Play the Cor Anglais?

Why Play the Cor Anglais?

I imagine that almost any oboist who has had experience playing or owning a cor anglais will be inclined to answer quickly simply and immediately - because it is fun! I fully share and support this opinion - but it does not say enough about the benefits to the oboist so I hope to expand a little. I would say that experience of playing and better yet owning, playing and treasuring your own cor anglais deserves to be viewed as an important part of the development and maturation of every oboist.

The similarities between oboe and cor are many and following a predictable initial shock and the requisite alteration of habits and expectations transferred from the oboe the cor is largely playable by most oboists of a reasonable standard. The primary differences one will at first encounter are the relatively larger size and weight of the instrument, the stretch fingers and placement of keywork and the blowing position as the cor does rely upon a bent crook.

The size and weight are best addressed by using a sling, a fairly standard practice for the cor, to take the weight and relax the hands. The finger stretch and placement do take some getting used to however, since the demands for speed of finger action are considerably lower for most of the cor repertoire, there is usually time and opportunity to learn to ease the fingers into place to cover holes correctly and gently.  Allow the instrument to hang down between the legs so that the reed on the crook enters your mouth at approximately the same angle as you have with your oboe reed. Transferring some of these skills back to the oboe is often beneficial in itself and may eventually result in a more fluid technique on your main instrument.

Oboists often discover that the cor uses up a greater amount of air than the oboe. This is true and logical if you consider the larger size bore. Learning how to breathe more deeply and how to best hold onto the greater reservoir of air required is a very useful learning process and the discipline and awareness that one learns are sure to enhance breathing and phrasing on the oboe as well.

The Cor Anglias is almost entirely a solo voice in the orchestra or ensemble and as such when it is included in a score it is intended to be heard - almost never a 'filler'. This implies that tone and projection are very important concerns for the player. Mastering the production of a fine, centred, colourful tone with good projection takes time and more than anything replies upon learing to relax the embouchure so as to not 'stifle' the sound with the same embouchure pressure as one uses on the oboe. In addition the aural cavity should be adjusted to 'shape' the air to optimise the resulting tone colour by giving 'space' for the air within the body before filling the reed/crook/instrument. Getting used to hearing oneself instead of feeling 'buried' within an ensemble texture can be a bit nerve wracking to be sure but it also can be a wonderful confidence boost!

Balancing the tonal qualities of different ranges of the cor requires careful listening and the cultivation of new sensitivities. The skills gained through this process are likely to benefit the oboe as well. Learning to produce and then employ vibrato is ofter easier to do at first on the Cor Anglais as it is a more flexible instrument and a wider amplitude of vibrato and a slower speed can be acceptable. Vibrato skills learned on the cor can later be transferred to the more precise demands of the oboe.

Even if one does not make their own cor reeds learing how to handle and adjust a different size of reed can be very useful. Most players will play a less resistant reed on their cor than their oboe and learing to 'take pressure off the lips and place emphasis upon the air' will not only make for a better cor sound and more accurate intonation but can be applied to the oboe often with great benefit.

Learning to switch between, care for and maintain your instrument is also very beneficial as it is often the case (even likely) that your oboe and cor will have been made by different manufacturers and the key mechanisms and even the specification (covered hole, ring system, thoumbplate, conservatoire system, half hole split keys, LH F, trill keys, 3rd octave key, etc.) will be different. Coping with this is a fact of life for many players and it should make you a more flexible individual capable of understanding all your equipment better.

I would recommend splitting your practice time between the different instruments on a regular basis. Playing scales, arpeggios, interval studies and long tones on the cor is time well spent. When the much smaller, lighter and more facile oboe is picked up it is almost certain to feel amazing by contrast.

A final point I would add is that the ability to play the cor, and the ownership of or access to an instrument, can often be the 'ticket' to opportunities to perform with a wider range of ensembles and even result in participation in groups where just being to provide the oboe would not be of interest.

I would encourage all oboists to embrace whatever opportunities they get to play the Cor Anglais. Make sure any instrument you might use is in good condition by having it checked over by a repairer and then go away and do the necessary 'familiarisation' practice. When you feel that you are ready then go out and let everyone know that you have added cor to your skill set. You will be glad you did!

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Introducing A New Plateau (Covered Hole) Key Clarinet

Introducing A New Plateau (Covered Hole) Key Clarinet

I have recently (March 2016) had the pleasure of the final testing of several wonderful plateau key clarinets prior to supply to customers. Each of these instruments had new touch pieces done altering all the formerly open rings into covered touches with other keywork, notably the left hand Eb/Bb and the right hand chromatic B/F#, altered as required for ease of use.

These custom alterations, done to a design by Daniel Bangham and executed to perfection by master craftsman Peter Worrell, have the effect of transforming the clarinet in a most wonderful way - adding complete ease and confidence of fingering and, due to the small additional mass of the keywork, enhancing the power and resonance of the instrument itself.

Over many years I have come to know the limitations of other familiar commercially available covered hole clarinet options, notably from Noblet and Vito. I can honestly say that this new version is in a completely different league to anything I have ever previously played. I had no feeling of compromise over the performance and tonal quality of a standard instrument when playing these clarinets. Indeed I experienced the unexpected feeling of freedom that I attribute to being able relax my fingers and not worry about precision in my fingering position. It was very much like fingering a fine soprano sax but hearing a wonderful clarinet!

I can imagine this customisation to be of great interest to any clarinettist suffering from a loss of finger dexterity, touch sensitivity or arthritis and I will venture that the covered holes could be a great boon to any saxophonist who longs for the comfort and relaxed feel of their beloved saxophone when required to pick up and perform on a clarinet.

Any model clarinet can, in theory, have this work undertaken but I would recommend that it be considered on higher value professional models as this is where the outstanding comfort and additional resonance will be most likely to be perceived and be of the greatest value. The converted models I have tried have been from Buffet and included both R13 and Prestige versions.

I cannot praise the design and craftsmanship enough. Wood, Wind & Reed are keeping a converted Buffet R13 in stock for customers to experience and are able to take orders for both new instruments and existing personal instrument conversions. Please speak to Daniel Bangham or Timothy Taylor at the shop. Contact telephone 01223 500442 or email shop@wwr.co.uk.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Flute Regular Adjustment and Regulation

Regular Adjustment & Regulation - Flute

Proper handling, cleaning and assembly will minimise the occurrence of most problems but some regulations benefit from regular attention and are often required - even on new instruments recently supplied.

The basic tools required for adjustment are minimal but a good quality, small tip screwdriver is essential. A spring hook is desireable as well as is a 'pad slick' or small, flat blade knife.

1)   For me the most frequent regulation required is the screw adjustment under the LH 2^nd finger touch. This screw regulates the closure of the Bb key just above. Under a light finger pressure the Bb pad often stays slightly open and so the regulation screw must be adjusted to close the key. As a leak here will affect all notes below it frequently causes response problems and accidental 'overblowing' of harmonics.

2)   On split E mechanism flutes (most instruments in recent years) there is a similar adjustment required for proper closure of the G-key pads. The LH 3^rd finger key touch closes the ‘split’ portion of the G-key via an adjustment screw.

3)   The 1 and 1 or long fingering for Bb relies upon the correct amount of contact from the engagement of the RH 1^st finger key via its connection arm. This arm frequently becomes bent or damaged and also the cushioning felt or cork often compresses over time. Regulation is accomplished by bending the arm (raised via the touch of the LH A-key) usually downward until sufficient contact is made with the RH arm when the RH 1^st or 2^nd finger is engaged. This adjustment often requires several attempts to get right and is worth constant monitoring.

4)   The RH F# touch regulation is another adjustment often required. Closing the F#-key touch must hold down the correspondence keypad just below the G-keys and problems can be masked by other keys functioning well until F# is required on its own. Turn the regulation screw by small degrees until the F# keypad closes under a light finger pressure.

5)   On the footjoint the low C# and C are meant to be held down with just the touch of the low C-key without having to hold down the C#-key as well – but often this does not work properly. Usually the C# key has been bent through assembly handling or a small compression has occurred in the cushioning felt. To remedy this hold the C#-key pad down with your RH first finger and push up the C#-key touch piece with your LH thumb. In most cases a small movement is all that is required. If you go too far then to correct simply do a reverse bending of the C# key arm. Test by touching only the low C roller arm with a light pressure and tap to see if both pads are properly closing.

Finally it is worth checking that the headjoint cork is in the correct position. This often moves about due to unnecessary ‘twiddling’ of the headjoint crown, which pulls out the threaded screw and this the cork - out of position. Place the cleaning rod with the non-slotted end inside the headjoint to see if the inscribed line is centred on the embouchure hole. Do not try to remove the headjoint cork out the top of the headjoint as the tube is tapered. Instead reposition the cork with a combination of backing off of the crown a few turns and pushing the assembly in or winding the crown tighter to pull the assembly out a bit.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Clarinet Regular Adjustment and Regulation

This is an area of knowledge that every player should try to take on board. One never knows when a situation might arise where knowing what to do for a 'quick' repair may save the day. 

In my opinion questions or problems relating to pad seating and the air tightness of an instrument are best referred to expert repairers. Having said that, the greatest frequency of problems in clarinet functioning arises from bent keywork, the correspondence mechanism, and ring height adjustments - and these can be sorted out relatively quickly with a bit of background, confidence and practice.

The basic tools required for adjustment are minimal but a good quality, small tip screwdriver is essential. A spring hook is desireable as well as is a 'pad slick' or small, flat blade knife. Thomas

Regular Adjustment & Regulation - Clarinet

1)      The ‘crows foot’ key, found in the little finger RH cluster of keys, exists to link up the closure of the low E / B key to hold down the low F / C key, and is frequently becomes bent due to poor handling during assembly and / or compaction of the felt or cork that cushions the contact. If it is not working correctly the player will be unable to engage the LH E / B without also holding down the RH F / C (or the converse). This is very frustrating as the player expects the notes to work with only one little finger lightly applied. To correct - place your thumb under the crows foot and press upwards to return the keyfoot to correct position. If you go too far this can be reversed. Test by playing middle D and engaging the E / B keys alternatively with first LH then RH little fingers. The middle B should sound without difficulty. If marginal try playing middle B and adding and releasing the F / C key – if there is an improvement or loss of response you must readjust the crows foot key.

2)      The linking arm from the RH key stack through to the upper joint correspondence key for the ‘1 & 1’ Eb / Bb is often bent (either upper or lower arm) or the upper arm may have lost its cork / felt. This correspondence must be correctly adjusted in order to close the upper joint 2^nd key ring and pad when the RH stack keys are closed otherwise the ‘1 & 1’ fingering for Eb / Bb will not work or will at will speak very badly or be out of tune. After the key is in position and having ensured that the proper dimension of cork or felt is in place adjust this correspondence from the upper joint key arm bending up or down until the a light touch of the RH ring keys will operate the upper joint keys properly.

3)      All ring keys are intended to close connected / related pads with a minimum of finger pressure. Often pads will swell due to moisture absorption or may have collapsed due to playing pressure or develop too deep a pad seat over time and then an hairline leak of air can  result either between tone hole and pad or between chimney and the ring (under the finger). In either case the instrument will behave unpredictably and frequently squeak to an upper harmonic pitch. This can be corrected by the insertion of a thin metal knife blade (or pad slick – even a broken reed will do!) and push down either the pad (via the key) or raise the ring (or visa versa) depending upon what needs to be achieved - then re-test by blowing with light finger pressure and trying to replicate the problem. It you cannot then the correction was successful.

4)   The throat A key has a regulation screw that contacts the G# key. If this screw is over-regulated (turned too far) the A key will hold off closing and squeaks will follow. There should always be a clearance between the regulation screw contact and the bed of the A key. If this is not the case back off the G# regulation screw and perform a suction test on the top joint to see if the problem is then corrected.

Three additional recommendations:

Keep joints well greased - this simple action avoids so many problems related to assembly.

Alternative fingerings for the same pitch should sound the same – adjust vent height openings if they do not.

The register key sometimes vents too high and / or travels too far – reduce by bending the touch piece down towards the body of the instrument if this is so. Too low - bend the register key upwards till the result sounds correct for both middle Bb pitch and gives the correct upper register resonse.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers