Regular Adjustment & Regulation - Flute
Proper handling, cleaning and assembly will minimise the
occurrence of most problems but some regulations benefit from regular attention
and are often required - even on new instruments recently supplied.
The basic tools required for adjustment are minimal but a good quality, small tip screwdriver is essential. A spring hook is desireable as well as is a 'pad slick' or small, flat blade knife.
1) For me the most frequent regulation required is the screw
adjustment under the LH 2nd finger touch. This screw regulates the closure
of the Bb key just above. Under a light finger pressure the Bb pad often stays
slightly open and so the regulation screw must be adjusted to close the key. As a leak here will affect all notes below it frequently causes response problems and accidental 'overblowing' of harmonics.
2) On split E mechanism flutes (most instruments in recent
years) there is a similar adjustment required for proper closure of the G-key
pads. The LH 3rd finger key touch closes the ‘split’ portion of the
G-key via an adjustment screw.
3) The 1 and 1 or long fingering for Bb relies upon the correct
amount of contact from the engagement of the RH 1st finger key via its connection arm. This arm frequently becomes bent or damaged and also the cushioning felt
or cork often compresses over time. Regulation is accomplished by bending
the arm (raised via the touch of the LH A-key) usually downward until
sufficient contact is made with the RH arm when the RH 1st or 2nd
finger is engaged. This adjustment often requires several attempts to get right
and is worth constant monitoring.
4) The RH F# touch regulation is another adjustment often
required. Closing the F#-key touch must hold down the correspondence keypad
just below the G-keys and problems can be masked by other keys functioning well
until F# is required on its own. Turn the regulation screw by small degrees
until the F# keypad closes under a light finger pressure.
5) On the footjoint the low C# and C are meant to be held down
with just the touch of the low C-key without having to hold down the C#-key as well – but often this does not work properly. Usually
the C# key has been bent through assembly handling or a small compression has
occurred in the cushioning felt. To remedy this hold the C#-key pad down with your
RH first finger and push up the C#-key touch piece with your LH thumb. In most
cases a small movement is all that is required. If you go too far then to
correct simply do a reverse bending of the C# key arm. Test by touching only
the low C roller arm with a light pressure and tap to see if both pads are
properly closing.
Finally it is worth checking that the headjoint cork is in
the correct position. This often moves about due to
unnecessary ‘twiddling’ of the headjoint crown, which pulls out the threaded screw and this the cork - out of
position. Place the cleaning rod with the non-slotted end inside the headjoint to see if the
inscribed line is centred on the embouchure hole. Do not try to remove the headjoint cork out the top of the headjoint as the tube is tapered. Instead reposition the cork with a combination of backing off of the crown a few turns and pushing the assembly in or winding the crown tighter to pull the assembly out a bit.
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The
tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my
personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during
my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for
sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am
indebted to
Woodwind & Reed,
Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the
course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
Thomas Dryer-Beers
This is really helpful, Thomas - it will certainly save me a few unnecessary trips to the repair shop. Thank you!
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