Showing posts with label slide. Show all posts
Showing posts with label slide. Show all posts

Friday, 12 August 2016

Brass Instrument Oiling, Cleaning & Greasing


Brass Instrument Oiling, Cleaning & Greasing

Regular lubrication of slides, tuning slides and valves is an absolute requirement for brass players who desire the proper functioning of their instruments. Without such regular care the likelihood of problems both in both the short and long term are dramatically increased. However, because it takes a bit of time to do and the consequences of not caring for the instrument are not fully appreciated, it is constantly overlooked.

Tuning slides should be regularly moved and never allowed to set in one position for too long as this will lead to them ‘sticking’. What happens is that the tubing exposed to air begins to degrade / oxidise and the inner stocking of tubing which is exposed to moisture is continually collecting food particles, saliva and a coating from condensation on the tubing as well which degrades the exposed brass. By lubricating all contact surfaces with slide grease and frequently resetting the tuning/slide positions both problems are reduced. If the slides becomes difficult to move then the accumulated residue can be removed by coating the tubing with valve oil or a degreasing agent, the tuning slide given a thorough rubbing to remove the build up, followed by a rinse with water, a wiping over and re-lubrication. 

The rubbing can be done with a textured scrubbing sponge such as might be used for cleaning of dishes or a fabric cloth of an open weave. Be careful to not leave scouring marks on the tubing as this contributes to an increase of problems in the future. The inside of the tuning slides can be cleaned using a lighter or thinner cloth threaded through a cleaning rod - a flute rod can be very useful for this. Coat the cloth with valve oil or a degreasing agent and insert and remove repeatedly followed by re-lubricating as necessary. Every now and then (some players choose to do this every 6 months or so) the valves may be removed and the entire inside of the instrument washed out - i.e. 'given a bath' - in warm, NEVER HOT, water and then the above cleaning process undertaken, followed by lubrication and reassembly.

Trombone slides are best lubricated with a proprietary slide cream and then sprayed with water afterwards. Remember to lubricate the ‘stockings’ as well – they are located at the very bottom of the inner slide and they receive the greatest friction contact with the outer slide. A properly lubricated trombone slide should feel practically weightless in use. Any grinding or hesitation in movement at all is undesirable. It is considered good practice to wipe off the cream occasionally and reapply so that an excess does not build up.

Trumpets / Cornets and all standard valved instruments require oiling to their valves almost every time they are played. Waiting until a valve begins to stick is asking for trouble. It is usually not necessary to fully remove the valve entirely from the casing - simply unscrew the top cap and lift the valve assembly up about half way out of the casing then squirt a few drops of valve oil on the valve surface and spin the valve around inside the casing while lifting up and down to distribute the oil on all surfaces. Locate the ‘click’ position of the valve guide and gently spin into place. Before the reassembly of the valve top cap put a drop of oil on the screw threads as well (good to do the same to the bottom caps at the same time) and they will function better. This is because valve oil, a petroleum based product, helps to stop the ingress of moisture and acts as a cleaning agent as well as a lubricant. In other words it functions both as a preventative and restorative treatment. Every now and then the inside of the casings will benefit from a thorough cleaning. Use a soft, lint free cloth over a dowel rod to run through the valve casing to remove any build up within. Wipe over the surface of the valve itself and re-lubricate.

Once all three valves are returned to their positions a test to see that they are in the correct place is to blow through the leadpipe while ‘twiddling’ all the valves rapidly up and down. At all times it should feel that air is flowing freely through the instrument. If you sense resistance at any point then one or more of the valves is probably out of ‘click’ position, possibly reversed, and you will need to check them all carefully and replace as necessary in the correct position.

French horn valves are a little different as they are ‘rotary’ valves and revolve on a bearing. It is best to use proprietary French horn valve, bearing and rotor oil when lubricating the valves and valve mechanisms. Valve oil is usually applied without disturbing the valve in the casing by adding a few drops through the port of a removed tuning slide. Do not over oil or you are sure to hear the ‘gurgling’ of trapped oil in the tubing when blowing. As horn players very frequently remove their tubing for the clearance of built up saliva / water they often have the cleanest and smoothest functioning valves and slides of any of the brass family. Their valves need to move especially easily as they are operated via a string or connection arm and not receive direct pressure from fingers.

 If through neglect or abuse valves or slides become very stuck it is best they be seen to by an experienced repairer who may have to soak the instrument in a cleaning agent or use force and or heat to get the troublesome slide or valve to release and then have to spend costly time cleaning and returning the instrument to good condition. Obviously this is best avoided.

It is worth keeping an eye on the condition of any 'spit valve' corks or synthetic pads as over time these can degrade and begin to leak. I recommend replacing these as soon as any sign of a problem is evident. This is far better than being let down during a performance!

Keep the outside of a lacquer finish instrument looking good by regularly wiping off fingerprints, grease and dust with a lacquer polish cloth. Keep silverplated instruments looking good by regularly using a silver polish cloth to remove tarnish and restore the finish to good appearance. I do not recommend using liquid polishes as they can leach into the slides and valves and could cause problems.

A final comment – When assembling the mouthpiece simply place gently in the receiver of the leadpipe and give a gentle twist to secure it. NEVER TAP ON THE MOUTHPIECE. There is no need for this and it will likely result in the mouthpiece becoming stuck requiring removal with a special mouthpiece removal tool.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful. 

Thomas Dryer-Beers


Friday, 2 October 2015

Instrument Assembly Tips - Woodwind & Brass


We all are creatures of habit when it comes to assembling musical instrument(s). It is my hope that by observing the following tips one should be able to avoid creating problems and thereby help ensure the very best performance from the instrument. 

Note: Players have their own approach to assembly, sometimes informed, most often formed simply out of repetition. There is such a thing as 'best practice' in the assembly of an instrument. The bottom line should be to assemble (and disassemble) without putting delicate keywork or valves at risk. Thomas 

  • Pay attention and handle with care - never in a rush 
  • Avoid placing unnecessary pressure on key work or valves
  • Keep all cork joints and valves/slides lubricated and metal cleaned
  • Carefully clean following use
  

Instrument Assembly Tips


My suggestions are summarised below:

Flute – Make sure the tenon joints (headjoint and body tube) are clean and free of dirt and grease. Holding the main tube at the ferrule with the left hand, and the footjoint with the right hand positioned at the bottom with thumb on the low C-key, align the joints and twist the footjoint into place with a gentle back and forth motion. The pillar of the Eb/D#-key is usually positioned approximately 2/3 to 3/4  down the length of the D-key touch. Continue to hold the ferrule with the left hand and assemble the headjoint with the same motion. Align the headjoint by sighting down the flute from headjoint end after assembly and lining up the embouchure hole to proper playing position with the headjoint pulled out between 3-5mm for most playing situations.

Clarinet – Make sure the joints are well greased. Holding the upper joint between the LH fingers and palm (fingers where fingers go is an easy way to communicate this) and grasping the lower joint with the RH over the bottom of the joint with thumb closing the low E-key bring the joints together in a twisting motion rotating as you do so that the bridge key linking the RH rings to lift the LF Bb/Eb-key arm lines up properly. Continue to hold the clarinet in the left hand and add the barrel with a twisting motion then re-grasp the clarinet in the LH with the palm holding down both low E and F (F#)-key cups and add the bell with the twisting motion. It is traditional to line up the insignias when present but this is not vital. Finally add the mouthpiece to the assembled instrument pushing down while resting the clarinet bell on a chair or leg if desired. The reed can then be positioned with ease. The entire assembly (and disassembly) can be accomplished in under 10 seconds using this method.

Sax – Assemble the mouthpiece alone to the crook into rough tuning position first then add reed and ligature. Following that, grasp the instrument by the bell with the LH and taking the crook assembly with the RH over the top of the crook and with pressure exerted between palm and finger tips and slip a finger under the octave key arm near the pad (for alto and tenor sax). Then bring the crook and body together in a side to side rotating motion while watching that the octave key arm does not foul the octave key link tube on the sax body. This is to avoid inadvertently causing damage to the octave key extension are above the body or bend the delicate lever arm on the crook itself. When assembling double crook sopranos take care to hold the crook carefully between fingers and thumb at the octave key mount to better control the assembly and help avoid wrenching the octave key arm out of alignment.

Oboe – Make sure the joints are well greased. Grasping the upper joint in the LH between fingers and palm ‘fingers where fingers go’ and holding the lower joint in the RH with the bottom of the joint in the palm and thumb over the low B-key align the tenons and assemble with a small rotating back and forth motion while watching carefully that any link keywork is not damaged – ending up in proper alignment for G# regulation screw, conservatoire link keywork and duplicated trill key mechanism when present. This is often (but not always) achieved by lining up the pillar posts. Re-grasp the oboe bottom joint with the LH palm below the thumbrest and fingers curved over the feather key rod (the long key starting with the LH little finger touch and operating the low B and Bb-keys) and closing the RH finger keys and take the bell in the RH with thumb depressing the low Bb-key. With a rotating motion assemble and align the link key(s). Finally, add the reed last holding it with fingers squeezing at the thread and pushing the corked staple down into the receiver tube in the top joint. This is often made easier by resting the bottom of the bell on a chair and having both hands free to steady the oboe and insert the reed.

Bassoon – Make sure the joints are well greased. Take the wing joint in the RH with palm over the holes and finger tips in the ‘cut away’ on the opposite side. Insert the wing into the small hole of the boot joint and make sure the cut away portion is lined up with the larger hole (used for the long joint) in a concentric ark – make sure you do not damage the crook key link mechanism – it must finish up above the boot joint lever arm. Next grasp the long joint over the top end with the RH holding down the low B key with fingers and insert this joint to the boot joint larger hole being careful to not over rotate the joint and cause the low D#/C#-keywork to bash into the wing joint. Then rest the partially assembled instrument with the boot joint on the ground and holding the long joint with the LH over the B-key with palm grasp the bell joint with the RH placing the thumb over the Bb-key and assemble and line up the keywork. Add the ‘bird’ or handrest. The final stage of assembly is adding the crook (held between RH fingers and palm in the ‘middle of the bend’ to the top of the wing joint being careful to line up the ‘nipple’ with the crook key pad and add the reed last.

Brass

Brass instruments are much simpler to handle and assemble but still deserve respect and consideration. Always try to avoid unnecessary pressure on slides and valves and take time to move the slides frequently to avoid them becoming 'locked in' or stuck. Take care to insert the mouthpiece with only a gentle twist into the receiver – never a tap!

Trombones are assembled with extra care with the slide lock engaged to avoid the outer slide shooting off out onto the floor and to avoid any chance of denting the slide itself. Once assembled the bell and slide should form an acute angle (at least a right angle) with the bell on the left for playing position and both the slide and the bell sections able to be held comfortably by the left hand palm, index and first fingers.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers