Brass Instrument Oiling, Cleaning & Greasing

Brass Instrument Oiling, Cleaning & Greasing

Regular lubrication of slides, tuning slides and valves is an absolute requirement for brass players who desire the proper functioning of their instruments. Without such regular care the likelihood of problems both in both the short and long term are dramatically increased. However, because it takes a bit of time to do and the consequences of not caring for the instrument are not fully appreciated, it is constantly overlooked.

Tuning slides should be regularly moved and never allowed to set in one position for too long as this will lead to them ‘sticking’. What happens is that the tubing exposed to air begins to degrade / oxidise and the inner stocking of tubing which is exposed to moisture is continually collecting food particles, saliva and a coating from condensation on the tubing as well which degrades the exposed brass. By lubricating all contact surfaces with slide grease and frequently resetting the tuning/slide positions both problems are reduced. If the slides becomes difficult to move then the accumulated residue can be removed by coating the tubing with valve oil or a degreasing agent, the tuning slide given a thorough rubbing to remove the build up, followed by a rinse with water, a wiping over and re-lubrication. 

The rubbing can be done with a textured scrubbing sponge such as might be used for cleaning of dishes or a fabric cloth of an open weave. Be careful to not leave scouring marks on the tubing as this contributes to an increase of problems in the future. The inside of the tuning slides can be cleaned using a lighter or thinner cloth threaded through a cleaning rod - a flute rod can be very useful for this. Coat the cloth with valve oil or a degreasing agent and insert and remove repeatedly followed by re-lubricating as necessary. Every now and then (some players choose to do this every 6 months or so) the valves may be removed and the entire inside of the instrument washed out - i.e. 'given a bath' - in warm, NEVER HOT, water and then the above cleaning process undertaken, followed by lubrication and reassembly.

Trombone slides are best lubricated with a proprietary slide cream and then sprayed with water afterwards. Remember to lubricate the ‘stockings’ as well – they are located at the very bottom of the inner slide and they receive the greatest friction contact with the outer slide. A properly lubricated trombone slide should feel practically weightless in use. Any grinding or hesitation in movement at all is undesirable. It is considered good practice to wipe off the cream occasionally and reapply so that an excess does not build up.

Trumpets / Cornets and all standard valved instruments require oiling to their valves almost every time they are played. Waiting until a valve begins to stick is asking for trouble. It is usually not necessary to fully remove the valve entirely from the casing - simply unscrew the top cap and lift the valve assembly up about half way out of the casing then squirt a few drops of valve oil on the valve surface and spin the valve around inside the casing while lifting up and down to distribute the oil on all surfaces. Locate the ‘click’ position of the valve guide and gently spin into place. Before the reassembly of the valve top cap put a drop of oil on the screw threads as well (good to do the same to the bottom caps at the same time) and they will function better. This is because valve oil, a petroleum based product, helps to stop the ingress of moisture and acts as a cleaning agent as well as a lubricant. In other words it functions both as a preventative and restorative treatment. Every now and then the inside of the casings will benefit from a thorough cleaning. Use a soft, lint free cloth over a dowel rod to run through the valve casing to remove any build up within. Wipe over the surface of the valve itself and re-lubricate.

Once all three valves are returned to their positions a test to see that they are in the correct place is to blow through the leadpipe while ‘twiddling’ all the valves rapidly up and down. At all times it should feel that air is flowing freely through the instrument. If you sense resistance at any point then one or more of the valves is probably out of ‘click’ position, possibly reversed, and you will need to check them all carefully and replace as necessary in the correct position.

French horn valves are a little different as they are ‘rotary’ valves and revolve on a bearing. It is best to use proprietary French horn valve, bearing and rotor oil when lubricating the valves and valve mechanisms. Valve oil is usually applied without disturbing the valve in the casing by adding a few drops through the port of a removed tuning slide. Do not over oil or you are sure to hear the ‘gurgling’ of trapped oil in the tubing when blowing. As horn players very frequently remove their tubing for the clearance of built up saliva / water they often have the cleanest and smoothest functioning valves and slides of any of the brass family. Their valves need to move especially easily as they are operated via a string or connection arm and not receive direct pressure from fingers.

 If through neglect or abuse valves or slides become very stuck it is best they be seen to by an experienced repairer who may have to soak the instrument in a cleaning agent or use force and or heat to get the troublesome slide or valve to release and then have to spend costly time cleaning and returning the instrument to good condition. Obviously this is best avoided.

It is worth keeping an eye on the condition of any 'spit valve' corks or synthetic pads as over time these can degrade and begin to leak. I recommend replacing these as soon as any sign of a problem is evident. This is far better than being let down during a performance!

Keep the outside of a lacquer finish instrument looking good by regularly wiping off fingerprints, grease and dust with a lacquer polish cloth. Keep silverplated instruments looking good by regularly using a silver polish cloth to remove tarnish and restore the finish to good appearance. I do not recommend using liquid polishes as they can leach into the slides and valves and could cause problems.

A final comment – When assembling the mouthpiece simply place gently in the receiver of the leadpipe and give a gentle twist to secure it. NEVER TAP ON THE MOUTHPIECE. There is no need for this and it will likely result in the mouthpiece becoming stuck requiring removal with a special mouthpiece removal tool.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful. 

Thomas Dryer-Beers