Reed Squeaks - Why this happens and what to do when it does

Reed Squeaks - Why this happens and what to do when it does

Almost all clarinet and saxophone players have at some point experienced their reed 'squeaking', often it seems in a most embarrassing situation or circumstance. Other reed players will usually offer sympathy - players of different instruments (brass, strings, percussion) just wonder what is going on - as we might well also. Here is my attempt to explain the 'reed squeak' in layman's terms and a few suggestions for what once can do to help.

The squeak of the reed is an uncontrolled harmonic or unintended sounding due to the vibration of the air column being adversely or improperly generated, usually at the mouthpiece / reed end or sometimes within the tube of the instrument.

Checklist:

• If this should happen to you the first place to check is the reed 'seat' on the mouthpiece. One can check this visually using a straight edge ruler or knife, sighting along the flat underside of the reed and looking in the direction of a strong light source. If light 'leaks' or shines through a gap under or around the reed then the cane has warped and must be flattened either by careful scraping using the straight knife blade or rubbing the reed on a sandpaper placed on a flat surface. A reed resurfacer may also be used for this purpose. Once the cane underside appears flat again retest by playing and see if the problem has disappeared. A suction test can be performed to see if the reed will do its job properly again - here is how:

Place the reed on the mouthpiece and tighten the ligature as normal. Lick or wet the palm of the hand. Place the 'back end' of the mouthpiece on your hand and placing your lips around the tip of the mouthpiece aggressively suck backwards removing as much air from inside the mouthpiece as you can. Release the mouthpiece from your lips pulling it out and hopefully the reed will hold in the closed position for 2-3 or more seconds until the vacuum is lost and the reed 'pops' open with a noise. This test takes a bit of practice but once you get the knack it is a very useful indication of a reeds state of readiness to perform.

• Less frequently wear or damage can occur to the facing of the mouthpiece itself and this can be the source of a air leak either between the reed and the 'table' of the facing or on the rails or tip where they come into contact with reed. This type of wear is often difficult to detect but if problems with squeaking or reed response are a regular occurrence then this may well be the explanation. Try some different mouthpieces and / or visit a mouthpiece craftsman with the proper tools to check and measure the mouthpiece.

• It is also possible on both clarinet and saxophone that a hairline or larger leak is affecting the accurate sounding of one or more notes. This can be due to pad seating but is often more subtle sometimes on the clarinet occurring due to an incomplete closure of the finger to the top of a tone hole on the instrument - i.e. the ring positioned to 'high' or the incomplete closure of a pad due to a ring positioned too 'low'. Check especially the left hand 1st and 2nd finger rings and the right hand rings. If your finger(s) bottom out on the tone hole before the ring fully closes the pad a leak will be present. If the pad closes before the ring allows your finger to cover an open hole air can leak out under the finger. Bend the key work in the appropriate direction to overcome the non-alignment. A butter knife or other thin, flat metal plate can be used.

• Common sources of response problems for the saxophone is found in the correspondence connections relating to the left had 2nd finger touch (which must hold down 3 key/pads in total) and also the right hand correspondences to the F# pad. Regulation screws, where present may help to return the correct function of these keys but be prepared to insert a butter knife or other thin, flat metal plate underneath a pad to be able to close a related key arm to overcome the closure problem. If you go too far you may have to reverse the process.

• Poor regulation of the G# key screw can account for poor performance of low C#, B and Bb. I recommend that this be checked each time you play.

• Whenever key work is adjusted there is a chance that the attempted correction will not go well or even be the wrong answer to a problem so having a good repairer available to visit should your best emergency efforts fail is always advisable.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Reed Adjustment - A Survival Guide for the Single Reed Player

Reed Adjustment – a Survival Guide for the Single Reed Player

The single reed that clarinet and saxophone players rely upon is a piece of cane (from bamboo, Arundo Donax, therefore wood) which, when in use, is continually changing state between moist and dry conditions. The reed fibres swell and contract with moisture absorption and evaporation. In addition, the fibres of the cane are tubes that will collect skin cells from lip tissue and handling as well as saliva residue, food particles and dirt. The fibres will also, over time, lose their resilience after being subjected to the many hundreds of thousands of vibrations required in order to produce the tones we all love to make.

 No wonder reeds need care and attention!

To make your reeds last longer and player better try the following: 
Have a planned ‘break-in’ routine with your reeds - 

• Soak your reed for 30 seconds to 1 minute, in warm water if possible, tap / cold water if warm is not possible, or soak in your mouth if no water source is available.

• Place on a flat surface and press with your thumb along the vamp of the reed before playing for a maximum of 5 minutes when new. 

• Place that reed safely in a reed storage case and repeat with another new reed.

One should ideally try to have 3-4 reeds on the go at any time so as to avoid getting ‘caught out’ with nothing ready to play. Once a reed has settled the period of use can be extended to an hour or more over several sessions. If a reed is working particularly well you may wish to set it aside and mark it for performance use in the future.

If on the other hand a reed does not seem to be performing as well as you wish then it is time to see if it can be improved …

Sounding dull / playing with a stuffy, resistant feel -

Place the wetted reed on a flat surface and use reedrush (natural sandpaper), a ReedGeek tool or a very sharp, straight knife and gently work at the tip area to remove some of the some cane (always stroke away from the reed tip, never back towards it). If the tip area is evened up and made more flexible this may be all that is required. If the reed is still ‘not right’ check that the underside of the reed is truly flat by sighting along the underside of the reed with a flat ruler or straight edge of the knife looking in the direction of a strong light. If you see daylight leaking through either at the edges or in the middle then the underside of the reed has warped and must be flattened. You can use the tool edge or the straight edge of the knife to accomplish this. Finally, if this is not enough you can experiment with removal of some cane in the ‘heart’ region to reduce resistance. Be careful – you cannot put anything back once it has been removed.

If a reed is almost right but just feels a bit like ‘to much hard work’ try placing reed on the mouthpiece as usual and then press it in towards the facing with your thumb, holding it in a closed position for 10 seconds or so. I refer to this practice as ‘pre-ageing’ a reed and it can often be all a new reed needs to quickly settle in ready for successful use. 

Sounding thin / playing without enough resistance -

 First, test to see if it seems to play better when positioned ‘too high’ on the mouthpiece (i.e. deliberately extending the reed over the end of the mouthpiece tip by 1mm or so). If this seems promising then try to return strength to the reed by clipping it with a reed cutter (Cordier is my  favourite clipper, Vandoren do a fine precision clipper for their own reed range). Work in small stages and try blowing again following each clip. When the resistance feels right the reed may need re-balancing at the tip (see above) as you have effectively returned thicker wood to the tip through the clipping process.

The changing nature of reeds -

Once good reed begins to decline try rejuvenating it by gently placing it on the mouthpiece and with the ligature in place, insert a thin/stiff playing card between reed and mouthpiece facing and gently bend the reed away from the mouthpiece using the card. Re-test. This often does just enough to get through a concert or rehearsal session.

If you are returning to a reed which was once good and now seems to perform differently it is useful to bear in mind that changes of humidity and moisture content will affect cane reeds and what the reed may require is breaking in again or a review given a change of season. Do not throw it away as in a month or two it may be 'just right' once again.

In summary - 

The ability to analyse reed behaviour and to be resourceful with various adjustment options in the face of the inevitable challenges posed by the use of cane reeds is of great benefit to all players. This knowledge increases your confidence, reduces pre-performance stress, and leads to more playing enjoyment and helps to save money!

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

The Saxophone Intonation Learning Curve

The Saxophone Intonation Learning Curve

When a player begins playing the saxophone it is natural to accept just about any sound and tuning as acceptable. After all there are some many other things to think about and the instrument is designed to blow easily and usually does - as long as we provide it with a reasonable air stream and allow the reed to vibrate.

As one slowly gets better and wishes to demonstrate more control over the tone quality a progression towards the use of stronger reeds begins and this is to be welcomed. As the embouchure and the ability to support the air column both develop there is frequently a perception that, in order to keep a reed from 'closing up', a still stiffer reed and possibly a more open tip mouthpiece must be used. While this might be true in some cases is is certainly questionable for many players.

Why is this important? Because the degree of effort required to produce the basic sound and the related embouchure strength used contribute very directly to the ability to play the saxophone in tune.

When beginning the middle range notes we first encounter are fairly predictable and our standards are lower. We do not know how to play 'up high' and are not often asked to do more than honk out low notes. The overall tuning is often rather flat and the tone unfocused. As progress is made and high notes are attempted they are usually found to be thin in tone and can be unreliable. It follows then that we are suggested to try a stronger reed to aid playing in this upper register. In the normal course of events this change makes the high palm key notes easier to produce and makes the playing of lower notes more challenging. With a bit more practice and progress a sensitivity to a more consistent tone and pitch begins to develop and, following tuning to a concert A (or Bb) as one will usually start out doing, comes the realisation that even in this 'in tune' position upper octave notes will often be quite sharp, lower register notes (low D and below) quite flat, middle D very sharp and, especially when played in close proximity to the middle D, the middle C# will be found to be very flat.

This realisation can be and often is very upsetting to the player and can be the beginning of a great deal of searching for answers to the problem of 'playing out of tune' including changes of equipment and much self doubt. What is missing is a simple realisation that all players and especially teachers should try to keep in mind at all times:

The design of all acoustic wind instruments is a compromise and best performance relies upon the player understanding the compromises made.

 

An octave key is only an aid, it is not a substitute for correct blowing and proper 'voicing' in the aural cavity for the register desired. An embouchure that is ill formed (too tight or too lose) can distort the tuning of any instrument. A poorly supported air column will cause response and tonal problems even with the finest of equipment available. An internal shape in the aural cavity will compromise the response and tuning despite the very best embouchure.

The best tuning position for the mouthpiece on the crook is where (with whatever skills the player has by that stage developed) the greatest portion of the instrument's range can be manipulated into an acceptable 'pattern' of tuning.

 

 Manufacturers try to anticipate what their customers will be able to manage and are of course taking advice on their designs from highly experienced performers. Each firm then decides how to accomplish the goal of creating instruments of character with stable intonation patterns.

The saxophone, with its two and one half octave standard range, relies upon two octave vents that are automatically linked to switch depending upon the fingering used (the exchange happens between upper G# and A). The first note that benefits from an octave key will always have a tendency to be sharp - on saxophones this is middle D and upper A.

NB - If for the player these two notes (middle D and upper A) are not able to be adjusted down ('lipped down') to pitch successfully then this is an indication of a deeper problem with air support and embouchure that must be rectified - this will benefit all notes on the sax. I suggest checking the pitch sounded playing on the mouthpiece alone. This should be no higher than a concert A, better an Ab, for the alto, for tenor concert G, better a Gb, for the soprano concert C and for baritone concert D.

The last notes prior to the engagement of an octave key will be weaker and have a tendency to be flat - on saxophones this is middle C# and upper G#. The upper G# in particular (and sometimes G) will often 'fall' or break downwards in the absence of a well supported air stream. The response and accuracy of all other notes within the range of the interval of the vent's use will vary proportionally with their position within the range of the vent. There will always be a 'stretch' between the octaves of the same fingered pitch.

The longest 'bell' notes will often be flatter not only because the instrument often does not 'warm-up' sufficiently for this end of the sax but they must not be tuned 'sharp' or the overall overtone characteristics of the instrument will be affected. High register palm key notes will often be sharp not only because they are at the mercy of a correct embouchure and air balance but also because that end of the instrument becomes very warm through constant playing and the last thing a player wishes to find is that they should have to 'lip up' a high note when so much effort is being made to achieve the best tone and tuning through relaxing the embouchure throughout the rest of the range.

Understanding and accepting that such compromises in designs are inescapable will hopefully prompt attention being given to achieving the best possible air/embouchure/aural cavity position while playing and lead on to anticipating the now much smaller corrections required to address the remaining subtleties of correct pitching.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.
 

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Tonal Differences Between Makes of Flutes

Tonal Differences Between Makes of Intermediate 

and Professional Flutes

While there are a myriad of makes and models sharing similar specifications and much confusion regarding their quality of performance it is possible to make some useful observations on the differences, both intentional and anecdotal, between different flutes. These might help interested players to find the type of instrument most likely to suit their playing expectations.

Manufacturers of popular and well respected ‘Step-Up’ or Intermediate levels include:

Altus, Azumi, Pearl, Trevor James and Yamaha

Manufacturers of highly respected ‘Top Range’ or Professional levels include:

Miyazawa, Muramatsu, Sankyo and Yamaha

While there are many additional makes, some of which are excellent, for the purposes of this blog entry I will concentrate on these well respected names.

Of the above makes flutes from Altus, Azumi, Miyazawa, Sankyo and Trevor James all tend to have brighter tone colours and are more immediately responsive. This is due to the concepts underlying the design of the embouchure hole and the cut of the lip plate / chimney as well as the metal composition, the weight and dimensions of the walls of the headjoint and body tube. These flutes will tend to be attractive to and suit well the player who wishes a fine result for little effort.

Flutes from Muramatsu, Pearl and Yamaha tend to have darker or ‘richer’ tone colours and it is often remarked that a player has to ‘work a bit harder’ to draw out the sound. While this might potentially be viewed as an negative observation the result of the willingness of the player to support and direct the airstream with a bit energy is that the tone achieved is likely to have more carrying power and projection with a richer and fuller spectrum of harmonic colours in the sound. The ‘core’ of the sound will be better perceived.

Further:

Azumi and Altus flutes are closely related – Azumi flutes are supplied with an Altus cut headjoint – and perform similarly – the Altus being the entirely ‘Made in Japan’ instrument. Miyazawa instruments are highly responsive, wonderfully engineered and innovative with Brogger system keywork options (making the key action more stable and reliable as well as beautiful) and various body tube metal silver contents from which to choose. Sankyo and Muramatsu have long established reputations and offer features and characteristics quite different from one another. When comparing these two brands one can clearly see that though each flute may have a silver headjoint or a silver body tube and headjoint, the shared specification does most certainly not mean that they will perform the same. At the highest end of flute production it is individual craftsmanship that often sets instruments apart as well as their ability to convey a ‘musical personality’ to the user.

Flutes supplied in yet greater higher silver content specifications than the above (including solid silver keywork and additional precious metals) as well as further possible keywork options are available and the differences will be noticed by experienced players but the perceived benefits tend to diminish and tend to be more difficult to quantify as the costs increase. If one is looking at the purchase of a professional 'tool' for solo or orchestral playing or wishes to simply be rewarded by owning the 'best money can buy' then these finer points are perhaps worth the additional expenditure and will certainly contribute to the enjoyment of any instrument.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

The Flute Learning Curve

The Flute Learning Curve

 When one begins to learn flute there is a lot to think about: developing a correct embouchure shape, the blowing angle, proper breathing, finger placement, standing position - even just holding the instrument properly. Simply managing the making of tone of any kind is an achievement! Almost always the first sounds are often very breathy, weak and inconsistent. Very frustrating for all. 

However, if one is patient control begins to develop with practice and repetition and eventually the beginner becomes functional over a range of the first and perhaps second octave of the instrument. This is enough for most players to join a group, play some solos and generally feel good about their music making. 

At some point comes the realisation that not every note is sounding as good as the others and some notes may seem more difficult to play and possibly even be out of tune with other instruments in the group or band. At this juncture the guidance of an experienced teacher, if this has not already been available, becomes a necessity - for learning how to focus and shape each individual tone to sound its best and to take its place in a reliable, predictable intonation pattern is vital. This is a goal of every player and careful attention needs to be paid to fundamentals to achieve this.

Here is a short checklist:

• Is my stance correct, i.e. balanced weight, feet spread apart, able to move without tension?
• Am I breathing fully and supporting the breath well once taken?
• How are my lips 'addressing' the embouchure hole? Are they relaxed and supple?
• How and where am I directing my air stream?
• How efficient am I being when moving across larger leaps or octaves?
• Are my lips under control - moving easily and only as required?
• Is the tone quality the same throughout all registers?
• Can I play upper notes quietly and lower register notes loudly?
• Do all notes respond to slurring as well as tonguing?
• Can I play softly and stay in tune (avoiding the pitch dropping)?
• Can I play loudly and not go sharp?
• Am I tonguing efficiently or is my tongue stroke disrupting my lips?

Also check:

• Is my headjoint cork in the correct position? (Insert the bottom of the cleaning rod and check the line is in the centre of the embouchure hole)
• Have I pulled out the headjoint an 'appropriate' amount? (For most players approx 6-8mm to A440 pitch position)

All the above points deserve consideration and the time spent improving and developing control will be very valuable. As a general observation improving or intermediate players often play sharp without being aware of it and, until remedies are pointed out to them, they will not know how to respond. Just pulling out the headjoint is not enough as every note has its own 'best' embouchure and blowing angle.

Practice with a tuner will help (and probably shock initially) but eventually the intonation pattern of the instrument begins to be revealed. When this is observed then attention can be given to making the appropriate corrections required while playing to achieve proper tuning. This process can be helped enormously by remembering that very few good sounding, centered and attractive tones will be far if at all 'out of tune' whereas almost all bad sounding notes will be! This leads to a very memorable sentence:

Good in-tone-ation leads to good in-tune-ation.

 

As a quick aid this catchy concept is hard to beat and it can lead on to a lifetime of rewarding and efficient practice. As one reaches top levels of achievement standards the challenges do not end they just change and a player will become able to handle more difficult passages with ease but when faced with something daunting must still go back to basics to figure out how to tackle the problem and somehow make the seemingly impossible appear not only possible but beautiful!

 

 The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Differences Between Student, Intermediate & Professional Models

Differences Between Student, Intermediate 

& Professional Models

In common usage these terms are becoming less relevant with the passage of time – other than a still useful way to differentiate between the costs of the ranges of instruments. The quality of student instruments has, on the whole, risen significantly while the number of true ‘intermediate’ models has declined and in the meantime the number of highly competitive models claiming to be of professional standard has increased.

As a rule in general, the best ‘made for purpose’ models still aim to achieve the following:

Student – Lighter weight, often designed to be more responsive and encouraging for young players frequently offering beginner specific keywork designs, simplified key mechanisms, quality starter mouthpieces/headjoints and supplied with durable yet convenient cases many with shoulder carry or rucksack straps.

Intermediate – Heavier built than student models and using better materials to enhance tonal quality and reward the progress that has been made in the early years of playing. Slight increases in resistance to match the player’s growing capabilities, often more fully keyed, sometimes accompanied by better quality mouthpieces and frequently supplied as outfits with more sophisticated cases that will stand up to longer periods of use.

Professional – Here you will find the highest degree of intonation accuracy, even heavier built and weighted to make the most well developed of airstreams and still hold sound together. Top quality materials are used, more hand finishing employed and the highest level of quality control, more design input from professional players and development teams, the fullest range of keywork and other options. A wider range of finishes is often available including custom looks. Greater responsiveness and tonal evenness are a priority and projection is emphasised – all with the intention of aiding the player to better produce a more personal sound and to meet the requirements of a wide range of playing circumstances while allowing the greatest freedom of expression and reliability.

It is worth noting that the quality of the mouthpieces supplied with intermediate and professional level clarinets,  saxophones and many brass instruments are often not equal to the standard of the instrument as manufacturers expect most players to have upgraded to their own choice of mouthpiece by the time they come to choosing a professional standard instrument. Some notable exceptions to this are Selmer, Yanagisawa, Holton, Conn, Bach, Paxman and Yamaha Custom each of whom includes a quality mouthpiece with their outfits.

NB – Sadly there are some very poor quality instruments, especially in the student range and often generic or ‘shop branded’ that are simply best avoided. Often compromises to the materials used, quality control and design will have been compromised  and performance will be sacrificed. When considering the purchase if a musical instrument I would always suggest seeking advice from an experienced, knowledgeable player and visiting a specialist shop who can offer the support and guidance necessary to make you feel comfortable making your choice.

The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers