Thursday, 24 September 2015

Clarinet and Saxophone Reed Adjustment - a Survial Guide for the Single Reed Player


Reed Adjustment – a Survival Guide for the single reed player

 

Background



The single reed that we rely upon for our playing is a piece of cane (from bamboo, therefore wood) which, when in playing use, is continually changing state between moist and dry conditions. The reed fibres swell and contract with moisture absorption and evaporation. In addition, the fibres of the cane are tubes that will collect skin cells from lip tissue and from fingers during handling as well as saliva residue, food particles and dirt. Over time the fibres will also lose their resilience after being subjected to the many hundreds of thousands of vibrations required in order to produce the tones we all love to make.

No wonder reeds need attention!


To make your reeds last longer and player better try the following:


Have a planned ‘break-in’ routine for your reeds. Soak your new reed for 30 seconds to 1 minute, in warm water (if available) tap water if warm is not available and in your mouth if no other option, then place on a flat surface and press with your thumb along the vamp of the reed before playing for a maximum of 5 minutes. Place that reed safely in a reed storage case and repeat with another new reed.

One should always try to have 3-4 reeds on the go so as to avoid getting ‘caught out’ with nothing ready to play. Once a reed has settled the period of use can be extended to an hour or more over several sessions. If a reed is working particularly well you may wish to set it aside and mark it for performance use in the future.

If on the other hand a reed does not seem to be performing as well as you wish then it is time to see if it can be improved …

 

Try the following:



If sounding dull / playing with a stuffy, resistant feel:

Place the wetted reed on a flat surface and use reedrush (natural sandpaper) or a ReedGeek tool or other sharp, straight edge knife to work gently at the tip area to remove some of the some cane (always stroke away from the reed tip, never back towards it). If the tip area is evened up and made more flexible this may be all that is required. If the reed is still ‘not right’ check that the underside of the reed is truly flat by sighting along the underside of the reed with a flat ruler or straight edge looking in the direction of a string light. If you see daylight leaking through either at the edges or in the middle then the underside of the reed has warped and must be flattened. You can use the tool edge or the very sharp straight knife or fine sandpaper on a flat surface to accomplish this. Finally, if this has not made enough difference, you can experiment with removal of some cane in the ‘heart’ region to reduce resistance. Be careful – you cannot put anything back once it has been removed.

If sounding thin / playing without enough resistance:

First, test to see if it seems to play better when positioned ‘too high’ on the mouthpiece (i.e. deliberately extending the reed over the end of the mouthpiece tip by 1mm or more). If this seems promising then try to return strength to the reed by clipping it with a reed cutter (Cordier is my favourite general clipper, Vandoren do a fine precision clipper for the tip profiles of their own reed range). Work in small stages and try blowing again following each clip. When the resistance feels right the reed may need re-balancing at the tip (see above) as you have effectively returned thicker wood to the tip through the clipping process.

 If a once good reed is just starting to decline:

Try rejuvenating it by gently placing it on the mouthpiece and with the ligature in place, insert a thin/stiff playing card between reed and mouthpiece facing and gently bend the reed away from the mouthpiece using the card. Re-test. This often does just enough to get through a concert or rehearsal session.

If a reed is almost right but just feels a bit like ‘to much hard work’:

Try placing reed on the mouthpiece as usual and then press it in towards the facing with your thumb, holding it in a closed position for 10 seconds or so. This is ‘pre-ageing’ the reed and it can often be all a reed needs to quickly settle in ready for successful use.

In Summary


The ability to analytically identify reed behaviour and to be resourceful with various adjustment options in the face of the inevitable challenges posed by reliance on cane reeds is of great benefit to all reed players. This knowledge increases your confidence, reduces pre-performance stress, and leads to more playing enjoyment as well as saving money!

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers



Friday, 4 September 2015

Crooks for Saxophone and Bassoon - 'Crook Maniacs' - An Overview


Crooks for Saxophone and Bassoon


For saxophonists and bassoonists this is the way you can custom tailor your beloved instrument upgrading both sound and very often intonation and response for a fraction of the cost of changing your instrument. The crook is a vital component of your set-up as it is the first part of the instrument after the mouthpiece to encounter the air column. It is in vibration during the production of all of the notes you play and its very subtle changes in tapers, design and materials have a disproportionately large effect at this end of your instrument. This upgrade option is often best reserved for professionals who are looking for 'he last bit of 'icing on the cake' as one must be able to make fine distinctions between options and have the confidence of your decisions. Students considering a crook purchase may wish to engage to help of an experienced player or teacher. Thomas

Saxophonists


The crook is at the heart of your sound. A change of crook can open up a sound or give it a more compact focus. You can move from classical to jazz and vice versa or find that ‘special’ combination that allows you to use your favourite mouthpiece for everything! A poorly designed or damaged crook can spoil the very best efforts of both player and instrument. More choice is available now than ever before. New materials and new designs are opening up options for customising your playing that no one can afford to ignore.

Important Points Explained –  Saxophone


Design – The internal taper of the crook, air-flow modifications, its length, the positioning of upper octave vent and the nature and dimensions of the materials used all influence the performance of your sax. Most student instruments do not receive great attention at the crook level as it costs time/money and is little appreciated by learners as they have many other factors on their minds. However, as a player progresses little differences mean much more and can be appreciated. Professionals, often without realising it, make choices of instrument based largely upon how much they like the performance of a particular crook when paired with their favourite mouthpiece(s).

Materials – Most crooks are made from brass just like the instrument itself but alternate metals are now being offered including bronze, nickel and precious metals like silver and silver plated with gold. The density of the various materials contributes to the character of the vibration of your entire instrument. In general it is accurate to say that the greater the density (mass) of the material the ‘darker’ or warmer the sound. Materials with less density such as nickel will be brighter. The finishing process for specialty crooks usually involves hardening or annealing which changes the vibration characteristics for the better – more immediate response being the most noticeable effect. Lacquering and plating have a less pronounced effect as they are basically altering the vibration efficiency of the base material but in general a lacquer or enamel application will minutely restrain vibration as these are a coating whereas as a plating of nickel, silver or gold adheres to the base metal and changes the vibration by adding mass and enhancing the sound timbre. Firms such as Selmer, Yanagisawa, Yamaha, Keilwerth, Cannonball and many others offer different crook options either with their instrument models or available to purchase separately.

Fit – A good fit is vital to get the best from your crook. Where a crook is slightly undersized a temporary wrapping with a layer of tape may take up the necessary gap for trial but if selected the crook tenon should be properly expanded to fit without the aid of tape. If the crook tenon is too large for the saxophone body receiver the sax would have to be altered to allow a trial – this must only be done by a skilled repairer – or the tenon dimension of the crook must be reduced – also a skilled operation requiring special tools.

Bassoonists


A player can upgrade a student level bassoon to often very surprising degree by outfitting with a higher standard crook. The better quality of design and use of better materials will often stabilise weak notes, draw 'difficult' notes more into proper tuning, even out response and tonal qualities and open up a stuffy sound. Schreiber crooks are well regarded as 'upgrade' choices for players needing to make the most of an indifferent instrument.

Important Points Explained –  Bassoon


What do the numbers mean? - Most crooks are numbered 1, 2, or 3 (you will occasionally see a number 0 but this is rare). These are relative measurements moving from shorter to longer. A number 2 crook is standard for most instruments. A number 1 will have the effect of raising pitch and a number 3 of lowering pitch. Most players feel the need for at least two crooks (usually a number 1 & 2) to be able to meet the playing demands of different temperatures and the tuning of different ensembles.

Does the plating matter? - Most crooks are made from nickel silver and either nickel-plated or silver-plated. This plating protects the base metal from which they are made from deterioration as well as contributing to the vibration characteristics of the crook. You can match whatever type you prefer without worrying about the plating finish of your instrument.

What about additional letters? - Some makers (notably Heckel and Fox) have a wide range of types of crook designed to address specific areas of an instruments range or performance. When you are searching for specific help in the tenor register, or freedom of vibration overall or specifically high note help then understanding each makers intention is vital. It is best to consult a specialty supplier if contemplating such a purchase.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Brass Instrument Mute Overview


Mutes for Brass Instruments - A Brief Review


When it comes to mutes whether you are buying your first mute or looking for that ‘special’ sound you need to know a bit before you can choose the right one for your use. Mutes are an important part of your kit and a selection of sounds and types will help you to meet your playing demands as well as increase your enjoyment. Thomas

First a bit of background for those who need help choosing.

Mute Types -


Straight – The one to buy as your first mute. It is good for all-round use and the most often specified by composers. Offers a quieter 'buzzy' sound. Used in all types of ensembles.

Cup – The second most often requested. A cup mute is darker, warmer and quieter than a straight mute. Frequently specified by composers. Used in all types of ensembles.

Extending Tube or ‘Harmon’ - also known as a ‘wha wha’ mute. This is a distinctive sound usually associated with jazz use. It consists of a mute that completely blocks the bell but which has a hole in the middle of the mute in which a moveable 'extending tube' is fitted. This tube can be positioned in different places for effect or removed altogether. If the tube is in place and the player uses their hand to cover and uncover the opening the end of the tube a 'wha wha' sound is produced. Miles Davis was a very prominent user of the Harmon mute without the extending tube.

Adjustable Cup – A ‘two for one’ value purchase. The Cup section can be removed leaving a straight mute or repositioned to work as a cup. A neat solution if a player wishes to carry around only one mute.

Practice – Very effective mute for personal practice. Significantly reduces the audible sound to all but the player and the player can benefit from the additional resistance offered to strengthen air and lips during a warm-up.

Plunger – A jazz speciality effect mute. As the name suggest this mute looks uncannily like a plumber's plunger used to unblock pipes - and indeed the original plunger mutes were just that! The mute is used to contrast an alternating closed and open sound. One can practice making an instrument 'talk' almost like speech.

Bucket Mute - Clips on the the bell and produces a distinctive sound. Primarily requested in big band swing music.

Stopping/Transposing – For the French Horn player for pitch alteration and tonal effect – mimics the effect of the ‘hand stop’ but in a mute.

Silent Practice Mute – The Yamaha Silent Brass system virtually eliminates all sound from the instrument yet retains a natural sound quality to the player via earphones. Practice anytime / anywhere with no compromise in feel. An amazing technology!

Manufacture -

The  number of firms making mutes seems to increase every year with small speciality companies introducing new products or variations on established ones. The main names in the market include Humes & Berg, Denis Wick, Tom Crown and Jo Ral each of which offers a range or mutes usually available across the entire brass instrument range.

Effects of Materials –

Most mutes are made of pressed fibreboard, metal (aluminium or copper) or wood. The effects upon the resulting muted sounds are different with each material but they all function in similar ways according to the type. Mutes made from metal tend to be brighter and feel more vibrant to the player whereas fibreboard or wood is darker sounding and more restrained or 'covered'.

Learning to Use – 

Virtually all acoustic mutes have an effect upon the overall tuning of an instrument. The use of a mute raises pitch and requires some compensation by the player, at the lips may be sufficient for some smaller instruments or by pulling tuning slides a small distance when necessary. Larger instruments will require significant tuning pull. Once experience has been gained there is usually little problem adjusting to pitch requirements though reminding oneself of the playing 'feel' of the mute may remain a challenge for a period of time.

Installation – 

Most musts are held in place by small pieces of cork. If just before placing the mute in the bell the player adds a little bit of moisture (often accomplished by exhaling with mouth over the cork or by licking) to the cork and the position the mute using a slight twisting action it is less likely to fall out of the bell. It is worth taking care of your mutes for it they do become dented or cracked it will almost certainly affect their performance. Once purchased a good mute can serve for a lifetime.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Thursday, 3 September 2015

Woodwind Instrument Clarinet and Saxophone Mouthpiece Advice - 'Mouthpiece Maniacs'



I refer to this posting series as 'Mouthpiece Maniacs' with some fondness as I have heard this term applied in admiration, frustration, sympathy and dismay to a wide variety of players who share an appreciation of musical performance and a curiosity about their equipment and how the right 'gear' can help their playing. I believe an element of this knowledge is absolutely vital for anyone in the position of advising other players, i.e. teachers, performers, music shop assistants, repairers, etc. In addition I believe that knowing something about the aspects of design, how equipment 'works' and what choices we have as players is both enlightening and empowering when we begin taking responsibility for our own performance. Thomas




Clarinet and Saxophone – why is the mouthpiece so important?


Want to find out why your teacher makes such a fuss about her/his mouthpiece? Tired of working had and getting very little for your efforts? Hear a sound you just can’t get from your own set-up? It is time to examine the basics. 

If you get the right match between your reed and mouthpiece you are at least 70% better off – vibration starts with the mouthpiece and reed set-up and it is by far the biggest single determinant of your success. Your instrument acts like a megaphone to the sound from the mouthpiece – bad mouthpiece fit equals bad tone, good mouthpiece fit equals good tone. The more you have experienced by trying mouthpieces the more important you realise they are to the process of personalising your music making. What others hear from you determines the largest part of what they think of your playing!

You can help your high notes, even up register response, improve tuning, aid projection or mellow your sound and most importantly enjoy your practice and performance more - all benefitting from a change in the mouthpiece. 

 

Important features explained –

 

Tip Opening 

This is the measure from the plane of the table (the flat surface upon which the reed is positionee and secured with the ligature) to the maximum opening of the curvature measured at the tip of the mouthpiece. A narrow tip opening makes for very easy playing with softer reeds. With harder reeds both response and focus are improved and pitch is very stable. A wider tip opening is not very comfortable to play with reeds which are too hard - softer mid-strength and softer reeds are the order of the day. A wide tip introduces more flexibility and freedom but requires more care from the player to control the result!

 

Facing Length 

This is the measure from the end of the tip rail to the point at which the curvature begins as it leaves the horizontal plane of the facing. A longer facing allows for more freedom of vibration and flex for the reed making soft reeds feel even softer and harder reeds feel comfortable. A shorter facing requires a ‘softer’ reed as a hard reed will not be able to work without lip fatigue, and the shorter facing adds a ‘snap’ or ‘bite’ to the sound as it emphasis the tip vibration of the reed.

 

Tip Rail 

 At the very end of the mouthpiece where the reed tip ‘seats’. This area must be clean and undamaged or the vacuum necessary for the creation of the sound will be inefficient or impossible to obtain. A narrow tip enhances higher harmonic partials in the sound as the reed vibration is less muffled. A wider tip helps to ‘cut-out’ some of the higher partials and brings about a darker ‘warmer’ sound.

 

Side Rails 

The reed seals all along the length of the side rails in the process of vibrating. These rails need to be parallel and undamaged or performance will suffer.

 

Table

This is the point where your ligature holds the reed. It is meant to be either flat (preferred) or slightly scalloped (a minority choice) where an airtight fit, which contributes to successful vibration of the reed, is obtained. If this area is damaged or poorly finished your reeds are likely to play with more difficulty and suffer warp more quickly.

 

Baffle

The baffle is the area just behind the tip rail and it has a very important role in the production of the sound. It is useful to understand the terminology when discussing this area. A ‘high’ baffle is one that restricts the vibrating air column; effectively squeezing it once the air has passed the opening of the reed. It excites the air, disturbing the flow and this adds a bright, 'edgy quality' to the sound – this is what is usually associated with a ‘jazz’ mouthpiece. A ‘low’ baffle does the opposite – it allows for the expansion of the vibrating air column in this critical area and emphasises the lower partials of the sound – creating the qualities associated with ‘classical’ orchestral, wind band or solo playing.

 

Throat 

This is the transition area where the opening beyond the baffle is focused into the straighter bore of the mouthpiece. Here you will see many variations of shape (round, square, tapered, blunt) but each intended by the manufacturer to complement the other areas of the internal flow of air in the mouthpiece.

 

Chamber – Saxophone  

 This is the region found after the baffle and before the throat of the mouthpiece. Most mouthpieces now utilize a fairy standard medium chamber. This is so common that unless specified otherwise you can assume that this is what is in use. A small chamber, when available, adds a further compression to the flow of the vibrating air column boosting the feeling of projection by emphasising ‘edgier’ higher partials in the sound. Conversely a large chamber, when available, ‘rounds out’ the sound by not restricting the airflow and creating a warmer sound. This style of mouthpiece was very popular in the early days of the saxophone and is sometimes referred to as an ‘old boxcar’ style alluding to the large space inside.

 

Bore – Clarinet

 The bore is the area after the throat that begins the internal dimension of the clarinet taper leading into the barrel. Bore sizes have largely been standardised with the popularity of the nominal ‘French’ bore clarinet being now dominant but some types of instruments with unusual, usually larger bores themselves, must be matched with an appropriate larger bore mouthpiece to obtain proper tuning.


Material –

Most student mouthpieces (and even some supplied with much more expensive instruments) are made from modern plastics to keep down costs. Plastic resonates easily and, if well designed and crafted, works well to encourage early playing. Ebonite or rod rubber is the preferred material for most professional range mouthpieces. The inherent vibrational qualities of ebonite are superior and mouthpieces can be crafted by cutting, not moulding as in the case of plastic, allowing for greater finish quality and consistency. Some ‘jazz’ mouthpieces exploit an ebonite/plastic highbred material that adds a ‘brightness’ and liveliness to the feel of the mouthpiece with its distinctive vibration characteristics. Various metals (brass, stainless steel, and alloys) are used in some saxophone mouthpieces largely for manufacture reasons when wishing to create high-baffle ‘jazz’ mouthpieces. The vibrational qualities of metals are different to those of ebonite and plastic both for the player and the audience but I believe are not inherently darker or brighter – that depends much more upon the design.


My advice is try to not go 'mad' chasing the perfect mouthpiece - they all exist for a reason and players are all different. What you prefer will be likely to change not only as our playing needs change but also as time passes and we tend to look for different aspects of performance from the mouthpiece. It is not unusual to own and use several different mouthpieces and enjoy them all for what they do to enhance your playing.


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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Brass Instrument Mouthpiece Advice - 'Mouthpiece Maniacs'


I refer to this posting series as 'Mouthpiece Maniacs' with some fondness as I have heard this term applied in admiration, frustration, sympathy and dismay to a wide variety of players who share an appreciation of musical performance and a curiosity about their equipment and how the right 'gear' can help their playing. I believe an element of this knowledge is absolutely vital for anyone in the position of advising other players, i.e. teachers, performers, music shop assistants, repairers, etc. In addition I believe that knowing something about the aspects of design, how equipment 'works' and what choices we have as players is both enlightening and empowering when we begin taking responsibility for our own performance. Thomas


Brass Mouthpiece Maniacs


Whether you have never tried anything but your original mouthpiece or you have own several already there is always something to learn about, something new to experience and very likely, something to improve your playing.

Brass Players –

Do you know the difference between an ‘all-rounder’, an orchestral cup or a jazz ‘screamer’? Do you want a ‘fat’ dark sound or an ’edgier’ tone to cut through a big band? Do you lips feel better with a wider rim or narrower? These things matter and you deserve the best.

Important features explained –

Cup – The depth and internal size of the cup are critical dimensions in the performance of mouthpieces. This is where the sound ‘develops’ after the lips have created the vibrating air stream. A deep cup will favour the lower range and lower partials in the sound where as a shallower cup will favour the higher range and upper partials. A shallower cup assists in the production of upper range notes with the trade off of reduced freedom in the production of lower tones.

Rim – This is a very important area for player comfort. Some mouthpieces are sharper edged than others though most strive to be comfortable on the ‘chops’. A wider rim will tend to relax the lips and facilitate middle and lower range production whereas a narrower rim tends to facilitate higher notes.

Bore – A narrower bore adds a ‘squeeze’ to the air and increases resistance that helps in the focus of higher notes. A larger bore allows for a greater airflow, demanding better support from the player to achieve the upper register but facilitating tone production in middle and lower registers.

Back-bore – Contributes to the ‘feel’ of the mouthpieces. This is the area of transition into the bore of the trumpet itself and is an extension of the dimensions and taper of the leadpipe. In combination with the leadpipe this area accounts for much of the resistance 'feel' of the set up.

Shank – The outside dimension of the mouthpiece as it is tapered to insert into the leadpipe. Though shanks are now largely standardised in size the fit to some leadpipes, particularly those of trombone and harmony brass instruments, may require use of a large or small shank mouthpiece to obtain an accurate fit.

Density/Mass – Most mouthpieces are of similar weight and mass though they may very tremendously in external shape. The advent of the ‘mega’ mouthpiece has introduced a new consideration for the discerning player. By building in added weight at the mouthpiece end many players feel that their sound and control benefits in both focus and consistency particularly players who might feel that the 'overblow' more conventinal mouthpieces.

Materials – The vast majority of mouthpieces are made of brass, brass alloy or stainless steel that is then plated. Recently some very successful plastic mouthpieces have been introduced which are both inexpensive, very lightweight and a joy to play in cold temperatures. No more aching lips!

Plating – Metal mouthpieces are usually finished in either silver plate or gold plate though some nickel silver mouthpieces are still available. Some individuals have skin or lip tissue that reacts badly to silver plate and for them the choice of gold plating may be necessary. For everyone else the choice is largely cosmetic – go with what you fancy!

It is not uncommon to have several mouthpieces with different internal shapes or designs that will assist in top performance of a wide range of musical styles. It is worth being careful to be sure that you are comfortable with the feel of such different mouthpieces on the lips as changes in rim shape and dimensions could be rather disturbing. 

My advice is try to not go 'mad' chasing the perfect mouthpiece is my advice - they all exist for a reason and players are all different - not only as our needs change but also as time passes and we tend to look for different aspects of performance from the mouthpiece.

The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Friday, 28 August 2015

Instrumental Design - Tuning characteristics and positions.


 
In the specialist shop environment I have frequently been asked to comment on the tuning characteristics of instruments, both recent and older vintage models. This is a summary of the knowledge I have gained, published manufacturer information and advice I have received over many years - much of it reinforced by my personal experience. Thomas

Instrumental Design – Emphasis on tuning characteristics and proper tuning positions.

Modern musical instruments, manufactured by responsible firms, have benefited from enormous investments in research and design consultation with artists. The overall standard of wind instrument manufacture has never been higher and the area of greatest improvement is to be found at the student level. While superior materials and expert craftsmanship contribute to making some older models highly desirable in the eyes of knowledgeable players the advent of computer aided design and assembly has brought about vast improvements in performance and pitch consistency for quality modern instruments across the board.

Tuning

Most markets around the world aim for A = 440 (UK, USA, Australia) or at most A = 442 (Europe). Austria is an exception where A = 444 or 445 is still a preference. Instrument manufacturers design their products to these pitches under ideal conditions of approximately 72 degree Fahrenheit / 22 degrees Celsius, (i.e. room temperature). In practice there remains quite a lot for the player to understand and to learn to utilise to help her or himself to accomplish truly playing in tune.

Comfortable, room temperature conditions are rarely found in performance situations but since these are what are utilised when designing the instruments an instrument must be able to be played both above and below the intended ‘ideal’ pitch in order to accommodate adverse conditions.

Flute – the head cork must be in the correct position – check this with cleaning rod line - it must show up in the middle of the embouchure hole. The headjoint itself is usually pulled out from the fully ‘pushed-in’ position approximately 3-5mm (sometimes more) depending upon blowing style, angle of air stream and embouchure. Too far out and the player is must compensate for flat low notes, splitting tones and a dull high register – too far in and the compensation is all downwards with the lip and blowing angle. Overblown octaves, harmonics of 12ths and double octaves should all nominally ‘line-up’ when tested. The player must then handle smaller adjustments for pitch accuracy and tonal colour. The general tendency of the flute is towards sharpness especially in the upper register and when playing loudly. Pitch will sag when playing soft without great care and good air support from the player.

NB – on all other instruments the tendency is for pitch to sharpen when playing more softly.

Clarinet – Instrument manufacturers intend that a clarinet, when pushed all the way in, should play sharp. Student instruments are usually supplied with shorter barrels to allow for tuning to fixed pitch instruments (i.e. a piano or keyboard) when played by inexperienced beginners. Therefore, when played by better players and especially once warmed up, the barrel should be ‘pulled’ usually 1.5- 2.5mm. This will bring most pitches into line but some additional ‘distributive’ tuning may be necessary. This is accomplished by pulling out at the middle joint and or bell in more extreme cases. Sometimes a particular mouthpiece will have a tendency to play sharp or flat and by changing this an otherwise ‘difficult’ instrument will come into line. The Vandoren series 13 range was created with the desire to help players ‘bring down’ pitch to A = 440 where necessary. Professional players with well-developed embouchures and settled playing concepts often use longer barrels in order to create the most stable possible pitch platform throughout the full range of the instrument. Key/pad venting height is a factor in the evenness of both pitch and tone colour and must be sensitively examined for optimal playing. The clarinet’s general tendency, unique among the woodwind family as it over blows at the 12th rather than the octave, is towards flatness, with the exception of the throat tones which are often sharp and thin and the upper register that is often played with too much lip pressure and can tend towards sharpness. Middle Bb and upper C3 are particular concerns for many players. The addition of fingers of the right hand is often done to help the tuning of and enrich the sound of throat register A and Bb.

Oboe – Most oboists count on their oboe to be as stable as possible so that their tuning is done with the reed, often choosing the staple length and the overall tied length of the reed blades specifically to match their instrument. The oboe is highly flexible and playing fatigue and the condition of the reed will continually affect pitch. In the correctly assembled position the reed should be pushed completely into the receiver socket. This is the optimal playing position. It is best practice to avoid pulling out the reed to try to adjust pitch downwards as this creates other problems by introducing a ‘bulge’ to the bore where the staple has been pulled back out of the socket. The player handles small adjustments for pitch and tonal consistency with the position of the reed on the lip and air support. The natural tendency of the oboe is toward sharpness especially as tiredness sets in. Reeds tend to drop in pitch as they tire or close up. The upper register, due to the difficulties of production, is often quite sharp and care must be taken. Too heavy a reed will lead to sharpness due to the effort of involved in producing a tone – too soft and the sound will be thin and pitch will drift downwards.

Bassoon – The bassoon is such a long instrument that corrections made by pulling the crook out from the receiver socket are virtually pointless. The player usually has a choice of crook lengths provided to them with their instrument and most will use a number 2 (crooks are available from a nominal 0 to 3, the higher number being longer and therefore providing a lower pitch level). Distributive pulling at the joints can help in a severe tuning situation (being sharp but needing to play at a lower pitch) but keywork linking across the joints is a limitation as is the undesirable introduction of a gap in the bore. Like the oboe pitch adjustments are often made at the reed and this can be successful for the shorter tube notes, principally E and F, but notes with a longer sounding tube length will not benefit nearly as much from reed adjustment alone. The tendency of the bassoon is towards sharpness, especially in the low register. This is an acoustic choice for if the instrument were absolutely to pitch in ideal conditions it would be impossible to bring up the pitch of the long tube low notes when cold. Players become used to keeping pitch down by playing with a relaxed embouchure, internal tongue position in the oral cavity and solid air support.

Saxophone – The saxophone has very flexible mouthpiece positioning on the crook and the resulting pitch is highly dependent upon good embouchure and air control from the player. There are known acoustical compromises in the tuning of the sax but as the tendency is towards sharpness the player must be very careful not to start with the mouthpiece position too far on the crook cork as all notes will then be sharp, especially the high register. One should not pull off too far either (a decision often prompted by an attempt to compensate for a poor embouchure understanding and improper air support), as this will distort the shortest notes disproportionately and throw off the balance of the response throughout especially the low register. Players must work to learn to support well and relax the embouchure as much as possible and when this is well understood the instrument settles into a manageable and predictable pattern. Tuning is highly influenced by mouthpiece selection and high baffle jazz mouthpieces in particular often require great skill from a player to be able play well in tune, as they will tend to tune more sharply.

Valved Brass – If an higher range brass instrument (trumpet or cornet) has been properly manufactured it will play it’s intended ‘ideal’ tuning pattern with little mechanical adjustment beyond a pull of the main tuning slide and secondary pulls for specific notes at the 1st and 3rd slides. The player must work within the acoustical limitations of the instrument to compensate with the lips for small idiosyncrasies. The larger the instrument the greater some of the known acoustical distortions and for euphonium and tuba especially additional valves, compensating mechanisms and tubing lengths are often added or manipulated to assist in obtaining better tuning in all registers, especially the low register. The french horn, being a very long tubing instrument, is played almost exclusively in the mid to upper range of the available tones and as a result produces quite a stable pitch platform. Never the less it does have some very distinctive tuning requirements. It is fair to say that well made instruments are intended to be able to play in tune with a consistent, minimal distributive pull of the valve tuning slides as long as the player plays with a good embouchure and airstream.

Trombone – Aside from a standard pull of between 1–2cm at the main tuning slide all the rest of the tuning for a well-made trombone is accomplished between the slide positions, the player’s embouchure and solid airstream. Instruments have their own individual acoustical ‘quirks; but of all the brass and woodwind instruments the trombone has the greatest ability to be played ‘in tune’ with few mechanical limitations. The trombone relies more than anything on a player’s hearing and relative tuning recognition for correct pitch placement as well as the ability to consistently supply the instrument with the correct air and embouchure balance.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers

Care of Brass instruments Oiling / Greasing


This is my overview of care suggestions for all the brass instrument family. It has been a training guide for non-brass players as well as a 'best practice' suggestion for players and teachers. I hope you will find it useful. Thomas

Care of Brass Instruments: Oiling / Greasing

Regular lubrication of slides, tuning slides and valves is an absolute requirement for brass players who desire the proper functioning of their instruments. Without such regular care the likelihood of problems both short and long term are dramatically increased. However, because it takes a bit of time to do and the consequences of not caring for the instrument are not fully appreciated, it is constantly overlooked.

Tuning slides should be regularly moved and never allowed to set in one position for too long as this will lead to them ‘sticking’. What happens is that the tubing exposed to air begins to degrade / oxidise and the inner stocking of tubing exposed to moisture is collecting food particles, saliva and a coating from condensation on the tubing as well. By lubricating all contact surfaces with slide grease and frequently resetting the tuning/slide positions both problems are reduced. If the slides becomes difficult to move then the accumulated residue can be removed by coating the tubing with valve oil or a degreasing agent, the slide given a thorough rubbing to remove the build up, followed by wiping over and re-lubricating The rubbing can be done with a textured scrubbing sponge such as might be used for cleaning of dishes or a fabric cloth of an open weave. Be careful to not leave scouring marks on the tubing as this contributes to an increase of problems in the future. The inside of the tuning slides can be cleaned using a lighter / thinner cloth threaded through a cleaning rod - a flute rod can be very useful for this. Coat the cloth with valve oil or a degreasing agent and insert and remove repeatedly followed by re-lubricating as necessary. Every now and then (some players choose to do this every 6 months or so) the valves should be removed and the entire inside of the instrument washed out - i.e. 'given a bath' - in warm, NEVER HOT, water and then the above cleaning process undertaken followed by lubrication and reassembly.

Trombone slides are best lubricated with a proprietary slide cream and then sprayed with water afterwards. Remember to lubricate the ‘stockings’ as well – they are located at the very bottom of the inner slide and they receive the greatest contact with the outer slide. A properly lubricated trombone slide should feel practically weightless in use. Any grinding or hesitation in movement at all is undesirable. It is good practice to wipe off the cream occasionally and reapply so that excess does not build up.

Trumpets / Cornets and all standard valve instruments require oiling to their valve almost every time they are played. Waiting till a valve begins to stick is asking for trouble. It is not necessary to fully remove the valve from the casing entirely - simply unscrew the top cap and lift the valve assembly up about half way out of the casing then squirt a few drops of valve oil on the valve surface and spin it around inside the casing while lifting up and down to distribute the oil on all surfaces. Locate the ‘click’ position of the valve guide and gently spin into place. Before the reassembly of the valve top cap put a drop of oil on the screw threads as well (good to do the same to the bottom caps at the same time) and they will function better. This is because valve oil, a petroleum based product, helps to stop the ingress of moisture and acts as a cleaning agent as well as a lubricant. In other words it functions both as a preventative and restorative. Every now and then the inside of the casings will benefit from a thorough cleaning. Use a soft, lint free cloth over a dowel rod to run through the valve casing to remove any build up within. Wipe over the valve surface of the valve itself and re-lubricate.

Once all three valves are returned to their positions a test to see that they are in the correct place is to blow through the leadpipe while ‘twiddling’ all the valves rapidly up and down. At all times it should feel that air is flowing freely through the instrument. If you sense resistance at any point then one or more of the valves is probably out of ‘click’ position, possibly reversed, and you will need to check them all for the correct position.

French horn valves are a little different as they are ‘rotary’ valves and revolve on a bearing. It is best to use proprietary French horn valve, bearing and rotor oil when lubricating the valves and valve mechanisms. Valve oil is usually applied without disturbing the valve in the casing by adding a few drops through the port of a removed tuning slide. Do not over oil or you are sure to hear the ‘gurgling’ of trapped oil in the tubing when blowing. As horn players very frequently remove their tubing for the clearance of built up saliva / water they often have the cleanest and smoothest functioning valves and slides of any of the brass family. Their valves need to move especially easily as they are operated via a string or connection arm and not receive direct pressure from fingers.

If through neglect or abuse valves or slides become very stuck it is best they be seen to by an experienced repairer who may have to soak the instrument in a cleaning agent or use force and or heat to get the troublesome slide/valve to release and then spend have to spend costly time cleaning and returning the instrument to good condition. Obviously this is best avoided.

A final comment – when assembling the mouthpiece simply place gently in the receiver of the leadpipe and give a gentle twist to secure it. NEVER TAP ON THE MOUTHPIECE. There is no need for this and it will likely result in the mouthpiece becoming stuck.

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The tips and comments above are the result of many years of providing help and advice, my personal interest and study, and the teaching that I have done during my career. I have many colleagues and teachers to thank for sharing their thoughts and suggestions on this and other topics. In addition I am indebted to Woodwind & Reed, Cambridge ( www.wwr.co.uk ) where, in the course of helping customers, many of these concepts have been refined and have proven helpful.

Thomas Dryer-Beers